#11
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read bellow
Last edited by Wouter; 04-26-2013 at 07:57 AM. |
#12
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At this point you should be able to slide the drive gear out of the ring gear (I used the black mallet to help it out) (you'll be replacing the insides anyway)
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#13
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Set drive gear aside and let's take look at the ring gear.
Remove snap ring 89 remove bearing 86 (I put in a WD40 bath) |
#14
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the forward clutch cylinder 84 should come out now. You can separate it from the clutch spring 79 (note the direction of the spring 79: lower side of the dish is closest to shaft)
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#15
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You can inspect the clutch plates inside the ring gear now. In my case the insides of the tranny were full of debris.
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#16
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You can now remove snap ring 78, clutch pressure plate 77 and the clutch plates (stage to remember order when new ones go in)
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#17
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Remove the rest of the clutch plates (stage in order)
When you have removed pressure plate 71, check if you have a snap ring that separated it from the ring gear (69) (b/w pressure plate and ring gear.) This snap ring normally sets the clearance of the clutch pack. Some models transmissions have this snap ring, some do not according to the experts on this forum. Mine does not. When you receive your parts you can give the clutch plates a 24h bath in atf fluid. Last edited by Wouter; 04-27-2013 at 04:30 AM. |
#18
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I started with the front of the transmission but you can also start with the propeller side. My transmission case was extremely dirty and filled with debris, particularly between the case and the oil baffle 74, making it clear that everything should come off and get cleaned.
Next I removed the valve spring assembly. Once you have removed the valve cover and gasket, be very careful when you remove snap ring 35. This holds valve spring 37 in place under a bit of pressure. If not careful, 36 will go flying in the air. |
#19
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Next: For main shaft nut (1) you'll need a 1-1/2" (38mm) socket.
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#20
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Pull bearing 5.
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