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  #11  
Old 03-09-2016, 12:08 PM
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David Analog David Analog is offline
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Originally Posted by nibbles View Post
Now this confuses me. I was under the impression that I would only be running the positive to the rear switch and putting the negative on the battery itself. The perko that Mastercraft puts in the boat is either all or nothing. Not able to switch batteries.
You're correct. I momentarily confused myself. You can only ground at the battery.
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2016, 01:16 PM
lees23 lees23 is offline
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Originally Posted by nibbles View Post
That is correct. The upgrade real is worth it. But I enjoy the ability to select what kind of amps I can drive the system with so I figured I would save the money. The mx series are more the adequate once properly powered. lack of a sub is not too important as I was not impressed with the performance of the jl in my last boat.
Interesting. I just re-powered everything but the sub. I am using a 600/4 for the M770's in cabin, bridged the main channel of the 700/5 and it is powering the M880's that I purchased and am still using the 700/5 sub channel for the M10. I wish there was a place to add another sub. I am considering putting 2 M8's in the bow.
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2016, 08:16 PM
nibbles nibbles is offline
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Originally Posted by lees23 View Post
Interesting. I just re-powered everything but the sub. I am using a 600/4 for the M770's in cabin, bridged the main channel of the 700/5 and it is powering the M880's that I purchased and am still using the 700/5 sub channel for the M10. I wish there was a place to add another sub. I am considering putting 2 M8's in the bow.
Yea I am consistently underwhelmed with subs in boats. Just the acoustics of the environment and enclosure are not conducive to great bass response. I figure the money is better spent on amps and tower speakers. Looking for sq more than spl as we solely surf. I will eventually upgrade the interiors to Ms but it is low on my list.
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  #14  
Old 03-09-2016, 08:19 PM
lees23 lees23 is offline
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My previous boat (chaparral 224) had 2 kicker 10" L7 running on 800x2. It was impressive, but they were both in boxes.. Free air/IB subs are decent at best.
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  #15  
Old 05-08-2016, 07:16 PM
nibbles nibbles is offline
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So i figured i would update this thread as i think archiving follow ups is great for research and indexing knowledge to share. Also having an issue i would like input on.

Installed the set up and everything sounded great out of the water. Set the amps up as followed; the MHD is powering the 2 M880s and 2 770s on the tower. 45% gain roughly and HP set at 115 hz. They sound fantastic.

The HT4 is powering the 4 MXs. They sound fantastic as well. I was surprised, as i know they handle less than the M series, but to my ears they were great.

Now, when i put the boat in the water this weekend and started her up, a whine was emitted from all speakers in the boat. This wine is only present when the boat is powered on. it is drowned out at higher volumes, but annoying none the less.

Now after doing some research i have narrowed it down to a ground loop issue.

My writing setup is as follow;

A 0 gauge main wire from the post on the back of the boat (i have a 15 x30 with dual battery set up so it is that blue sea switch ACR module. I wired it exactly where the b+ stock wire was for the old tower amp.
This wire goes to a fused dist block and turns into 4 gauge to amp.

For the ground, i have 0 gauge from the assesory battery to a distribution block that runs into 4 gauge to the amps.

When wiring the internal speakers we cut the speaker leads from the harness, and attached them to the HT4. We left the power/ ground/remote from the head unit harness alone. When removing the stock amp, it looks like there looked like there was a secondary head unit ground to the negative socket of the AMP. We put this ground in the new amp.

So here is where i believe the issue lies. When you remove the RCAs, the whine goes away. this confirmed for me that this was a ground loop issue. I further narrowed it down to the main head unit ground. Since we left it in the stock harness, i assume it is grounded in the back near the switch on the ground bus bar where all of the other electronics are grounded to.

My plan is to snip this wire on the harness and move it to the distribution block where my amps are grounded. Hopefully this will clear it up. If not, i bought a ground loop isolator as a last resort.


Any other thoughts on this?
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