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  #31  
Old 05-03-2018, 01:16 PM
avorob avorob is offline
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Boat: mastercraft x2 2006 315 hp
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Impeller installed

Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
Run it with a new impeller. No impeller means no water for cooling. You have two water pumps; 1) a raw water pump and, 2) an engine circulating water pump. For now, the raw water pump is the one to get a new impeller in. Even if it looks good, replace it.

Water will not get in the oil through a degradated head gasket until it circulates through the engine cooling path.

Get it back to running and use it for a short while. Check the oil. The things you have said so far make me lean toward less damage. You may get lucky. White smoke is steam.

The smell is likely hose material.

One thing about it now, the engine is not seized. 160 deg. F is normal operating temperature (NOT).
Progress Update.
I installed a new impeller and ran the boat on idle. It ran @160 deg for a while.

Damage assessment:
1. There are micro holes in the muffler and water is dripping through. See the pic
2. All four plastic 90 deg hose fittings going in top manifolds are loose and leaking. It looks like a paste was used to make the connections water tight.
3. There is a leak in the wall of the transmission cooler housing is leaking. See the pic

How do I manage the repairs?
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  #32  
Old 05-03-2018, 02:54 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is offline
 
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In the last photo, it looks like you are missing the rear bilge pump.
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  #33  
Old 05-03-2018, 05:10 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avorob View Post
Progress Update.
I installed a new impeller and ran the boat on idle. It ran @160 deg for a while.

Damage assessment:
1. There are micro holes in the muffler and water is dripping through. See the pic
2. All four plastic 90 deg hose fittings going in top manifolds are loose and leaking. It looks like a paste was used to make the connections water tight.
3. There is a leak in the wall of the transmission cooler housing is leaking. See the pic

How do I manage the repairs?
You're asking the wrong person here. I am too meticulous...

From an online assessment of your description(s):

The muffler makes me think of several options:
1) repair, 2) replacement.... Mr. Obvious here....

Repair or replacement would require disassembly which to me is the fun part. If you have it apart, then the muffler can be repaired with epoxy filler (hole to hole) but with so many small holes, I'd be inclined to wrap it with epoxy soaked fiber cloth. That's really an easy job but I say that also because I have all of the materials on hand and have done that more times that I care to remember.

Replacement costs a bit more with the cross-over to replace. You can do a like-for-like replacement if you can find that muffler.

So regardless, it needs to come apart. All new exhaust hoses are in order and will be much easier to work on while it is apart. Hoses are readily available and decently inexpensive.

The four hose fittings can be replaced with like-for-like plastic or brass fittings. The reason the fittings are packed with putty is because that/those hole(s) is a nominal pipe thread bore which is usually less of a tight thread fit than a machine thread pattern. It is also a tapered bore. So the fittings got so far engaged then would not make it another full / tight turn so the installer backed it out until the hose lined up and packed the threads to seal them. Poor workmanship but sometimes folks are either lazy or limited in capacity. I use a pipe thread tap (cheap from Harbor Freight) and tap out the holes in the cast iron a little at a time to where the new fitting is snug with a custom-fit hole adjustment (by me). I also add a sealant onto the threads as a secondary measure. I personally like to use MarineTex (gray) epoxy and apply to the threads. It will seal and hold until the cows come home.

Plastic is the same scenario but I recommend my method (or similar) to get the best fit for lasting results and not have to revisit that issue for many years. While you're there, new hoses would be a good preventative maintenance measure.

For the heat exchanger, you can solder that (maybe), or if it is a clean split or crack, use the same MarineTex epoxy. However, the best bet for the long haul is a new cooler. Be careful of removing the hoses. There is transmission fluid in the hoses and the cooler. Just don't make an unnecessary mess; with caution.

Tim also points out the bilge pump..no better time to take care of that too, than now. While you have the muffler out. do any maintenance work that is easily accessible. I see a Zirk fiting on the rudder assembly.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-03-2018 at 05:39 PM.
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  #34  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:58 PM
avorob avorob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
In the last photo, it looks like you are missing the rear bilge pump.
It's a separate issue that I'm preparing to tackle after the overheat issue. LOL, Somehow the water got in the boat, froze and cracked both bilge pumps. I glued them with JB weld. The work but they don't shut off on auto.
The pumps that were installed are Rule-Mate 750 GPH. It looks like they don't make them anymore. Any advice on substitution?

Last edited by avorob; 05-03-2018 at 10:12 PM.
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  #35  
Old 05-03-2018, 10:02 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avorob View Post
It's a separate issue that I'm preparing to tackle after the overheat issue. LOL, Somehow the water got in the boat, froze and cracked both bilge pumps. I glued them with JB weld. The work but they don't shot off on auto.
The pumps that were installed are Rule-Mate 750 GPH. It looks like they don't make them anymore. Any advice on substitution?

==> Rule-Mate 750 GPH <==




I just installed a Seaflo in an older boat.
I like the Seaflo as well (better priced, just as good).

I allowed extra wire bundled so I can lift the pump out (without having to determinate the wires) in the event I need to get in the bilge area. Enough there to set the pump up out of the way on the floor.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-03-2018 at 10:24 PM.
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  #36  
Old 05-03-2018, 10:53 PM
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neil.anderson63 neil.anderson63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lentiman View Post
If you were in my area I'd help you out. Perhaps you can find a local TT member that can lend a hand.
Too far from me - OP is in Wisconsin.
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  #37  
Old 05-03-2018, 11:50 PM
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osmonet osmonet is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avorob View Post
It's a separate issue that I'm preparing to tackle after the overheat issue. LOL, Somehow the water got in the boat, froze and cracked both bilge pumps. I glued them with JB weld. The work but they don't shut off on auto.
The pumps that were installed are Rule-Mate 750 GPH. It looks like they don't make them anymore. Any advice on substitution?
just replace the bilge pumps with current model. Worst case is you will need to change the basket/mount. Had to do this on mine...easy job
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