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Old 11-27-2016, 09:20 PM
Joseph Joseph is offline
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portside manifold overheating

At a loss but also a newbie. was pulling my 99 maristar off the lake a few weeks ago. After 5 minutes of the last cruise around the lake, smelled burning, temp gauge over 200 (was around 150 when I started my last highspeed hurrah), opened the engine compartment and the fiberglass on left side exhaust was smoking, then the engine died. the starboard manifold was just warm but the port was too hot to touch. Out in the middle of the lake in Kansas with high wind. Against my better judgement, restarted the boat and got it to the ramp. I finally got to play with the boat today..no water draining after thermistat removal on the port side, got water from starboard draincock, took the manifold off because I thought maybe that was plugged but there was some water in it and I was able to run a hose through it. Impellar was intact. I understand I may have messed up the engine but what caused this? I will be looking for a new mechanic here because this my be beyond me but want to be educated and maybe fix this myself. The local dealer has had three tries in the past and always returned my boat with more problems then when they got it (way too long of a story but 3 tries is about all I can handle with them)
I do understand that the engine may now be fubar but I'd like to know what happened, at least get it safely running to find out if it is a lost cause
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Old 11-27-2016, 10:36 PM
gweaver gweaver is online now
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Try disconnecting where the hose T's from the raw water pump and goes to the left side of the block. Essentially, chase the hoses from the water pump to the block, see if you can push water from a hose through those hoses- maybe something's plugged up there? I'm not sure how to test flow through the block, but at least you can check/eliminate the various water hoses around the engine.
Probably a good time to check the oil, see if there's evidence of water contamination- that will tell you if you've cracked the block or head, or had a head gasket fail due to overheating.
Was there a significant amount of water in the bilge? Is it possible a freeze plug failed and water was leaking out? Check freeze plugs on the block if you can, see if there's any evidence of leakage- look for rust around each plug.
How old is the impeller? Even though all fins are present, it's possible it's old enough that it's not able to flow enough water- water will take the path of least resistance. Could be that the left exhaust manifold cooling passages are partially obstructed. Lots of things to check- I'd start with the easier ones before getting too worried. Could be worth trying to find someone with the same/similar boat, see if your cooling hoses are routed the same way- maybe a couple of hoses got reversed?
And yeah, see if you can find a new mechanic.
G
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:19 AM
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paco_06 paco_06 is offline
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Sounds like the riser that bolts to the top of the manifold. Or maybe possibly the manifold itself, but I doubt it. Crank it up in the driveway with a water hose and see if anything is coming out the exhaust.

On a side note, I highly doubt you hurt your engine. Only thing that may be hurt is the exhaust behind the manifold, from the heat. Good thing is, removing the manifold is the hardest part. If you can handle that, no need in paying someone else to do it
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:45 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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I would pop off the risers to inspect - possible that the exhaust hose is toast 200 only? you may be good.

make a riser tool makes life much easier - cut a piece of an 5/16 alan wrench and then use a ratcheting box end wrench to remove install bolts.
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:55 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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here's the tool I made. and a pic of a collapsed exhaust hose... that caused the problem you described.
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:35 PM
Joseph Joseph is offline
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thanks gweaver. I disconnected all the hoses and none seemed obstructed....buutt the one large pipe going from the pump to the left manifold did have a slight depression/kink? in it...maybe 20%...and with the pic that mikeg205 sent...maybe that is the problem? no way...that simple yet that potentially catastrophic?? could the mannifold get so hot that pressure builds up from steam and prevents inflow even more?? Ha..that tool to get the risers off would have made it easier...might make that to put them back on. does the riser just carry off the exhaust though? one more question..ok maybe two..Should I just replace the manifold? best place to get them? (a ran a garden hose through it after I got it off and water seemed to flow through it. and finally, there is an outlet on the front of the manifolds with a hose connected to the other manifold...if that is for cross flow then should't it have carried water? thank you guys, your're giving me hope (oh, the 200 is what I noticed after I smelled smoke, I think it got a lot higher..I put water on the exhaust fiberglass to prevent it from catching fire and it boiled off.)
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:45 PM
Joseph Joseph is offline
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Paco06..where is the best place to attach a hose to start the boat..I bought a suction cup thing for the bottom once but the trailer bunks block the intake. (ok...i can search for that too) You're right about replacing big 6 inch exhaust tube from the riser to the exhaust...the heat may have damaged it. I guess I can at least start with thermostat, exhaust pipe from riser to exhaust, gasket for manifold to riser, pipe from pump to manifold..maybe a new manifold (no visible external cracks and just seemed like surface rust on inside), The exhaust pipe covered with fiberglass should be fine right? or is there something inside of it that that could be damaged?

Last edited by Joseph; 11-28-2016 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:16 AM
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Psgwake Psgwake is offline
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On my old 200vrs i would lift up the rear seat and remove the hose on the intake side of the transmission. Then i made an adapter hose to slide onto the intake side of the trans that fit a garden hose on the other end. Turn on the garden hose and your good to go. Btw, need to use a hose clamp to secure adapter hose to transmission or it will pop off when you turn the water on!
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:39 AM
93xs2003 93xs2003 is offline
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Joseph,
Here are some basics... maybe this will help with diagnostics.

The raw water pump normally pushes an excess volume of water through the T-stat housing. This excess flows out from the T-stat housing to the manifolds and over the risers cooling and quieting the exhaust.

The water in the block is continuously circulated by the re-circulation pump. The engine block takes a gulp of cool water from the raw water stream only when it needs it. i.e. when the T-stat goes above the opening point.

The temperature of your block is likely measured up on the intake manifold. (upstream, and physically a long way from your manifold/riser.) Assuming you are pumping sufficient raw water, it is very unlikely that a blockage of a manifold or riser would cause a noticeable rise in block temperature (as measured at the intake manifold).

It is more likely that you experienced a reduction in raw water flow (bad impeller, blockage of trans-cooler, blocked pickup, etc), that resulted in no flow over one manifold, just a trickle over the other, and a slow rise in block temperature (because it had no cool water stream to drink from).

My money is on blocked trans cooler. But it wouldn't hurt to replace impeller.

Check any exhaust components that could have been cooked (rubber / fiberglass). This is secondary to the overheat, not the cause.

200F is not a big deal for the block. (e.g. my truck 200F runs all the time) But it is a warning flag that something is wrong with the cooling of the block (raw water supply, T-stat, lack of recirc flow within block).

Given that you are also seeing a hot riser, you can rule out T-stat and lack of recirc flow within block, and concentrate on raw water supply. (i.e. a stuck thermostat or clogged block water jacket could cause an increase in block temperature, but would show no manifold/riser overheat as these are cooled by the excess raw water flow.)

Last edited by 93xs2003; 11-29-2016 at 07:09 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:18 PM
Joseph Joseph is offline
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thanks 93xs2003. I think I got your basics to help run some better diagnostics! thank you for the time to make it clear. Can I diagnose a block in the tran cooler or is it just a replace item? I will make psgwakes adapter and run it hopefully this weekend! I was going to try and "backflush from the pipes that go into the exhaust manifolds.

Unfortunately, the 200F was the last temp I noticed before the engine stalled from overheating. I never got back to check how high it got after being distracted by the smoke from the exhaust and feeling the manifolds, then trying to decide how i was going to get to shore. The oil looks crystal clear (or yellow)-didn't even run enough to use it this year. I figure I will fix the cooling problem then run the boat in the middle of December or Jan wistfully longing for warmer weather
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