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  #71  
Old 08-20-2015, 11:21 PM
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DooSPX DooSPX is offline
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Boat: 1991 MasterCraft Prostar 190 PowerSlot
Location: Central, FL
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Looks great! In case you're wondering, I bet the hull is called Dawn Grey. That's what my 91 Prostar is.
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1991 PROSTAR 190 Flagship Blue POWERSLOT OJ XMP CNC 13.7x17.5 .110 4B
A.K.A. One of a kind mistake
2011 Best In Show- 1987-2000 class

Trying to keep slalom alive

Need a new prop to fit your needs? Call Eric from OJ PROPS 800-359-9730

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"It's better to keep your mouth shut and let people think you are stupid, than to open it and prove it"?
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  #72  
Old 08-28-2015, 10:48 AM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
Posts: 1,130
My distributor. I would liek to get a rbeuild kit for it, or beter yet an electronic upgrade. But look, no numbers!! ***!!!!
my gf attempted to remoe the top plate to insepct the lower plate, and she told me nothign is legibale (IE the company name), and there are no product numbers stamped in.

SO....This makes things so much more fun. Best part is I called SKIDIM and they said it was news to them Autolite (the top red tag. says its a reman distributor), even made distributors for my engine (454 Chev). So then the question comes to my head, ***.

This is a marine distributor though, as it had a screen spark arrestor on the body.

Anyoe one with a smililar vintage engine like mine care to tell me what they have?
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Last edited by Roman; 08-28-2015 at 11:11 AM.
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  #73  
Old 08-28-2015, 01:06 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
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I would call the tech line at Pertronix or Mallory and have them tell you what will work. I have never dealt with anyone at Mallory, but the folks at Pertronix are all great to deal with in my experience.
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  #74  
Old 08-28-2015, 01:24 PM
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Spork Spork is offline
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Last edited by Spork; 11-16-2015 at 12:34 PM.
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  #75  
Old 09-04-2015, 02:46 PM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
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Ok so I removed the the plugs. The forward 4 look lean and the rear 4 look rich.
I'm installing a 6.5 vs 2.5 powervalve this weekend so well see how she runs. Any opinions here on what's going on ? I'm thinking in running lean on the primaries and my secondaries are opening up maybe before my pv is even open giving me cylinder imbalance ?

Next up is the distributor.
Can't find a dwell meter or even rent one. Not only that but i don't even know how to adjust the dwell. Seems there should be an adjustment somewhere you do while it's running but I can't find it. I should probably check the gap on the distributor Aswell but I'm scared to make changes.

No idea how to determine tdc either with a bbc. Apparently it's most critical to ensure you have proper tdc and you can't use a typical piston stop on a bbc. I Also can't figure out how to rotate the engine by hand.

I'm kind on interested in learning how to properly set up these points. I like how they are mechanical.
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Last edited by Roman; 09-04-2015 at 03:03 PM.
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  #76  
Old 03-10-2016, 07:06 PM
lyzer lyzer is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Boat: 1990 MariStar 240 BR 454
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 29
Bump! How's the restore coming along? More pix! Looks like you're doing a great job!

I just had my 240 at the dealer getting serviced and they put in a pertronix flamethrower distributor since the weights and springs one was having issues. Have you had any hot-restart issues? Had to replace my carb with a new one and it's been awesome since.
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  #77  
Old 06-05-2018, 06:29 PM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
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Another season. Another thousand. Right?

Big goals in the next week here boys. Look at that electrical. What junk. There is going to be some light rewiring. Ive hacked some things in that have caused guages not to read properly, and this is the season those things get fixed.

The plan is to eventually rewire everything one day, but I need to get the boat running with a stereo in the meantime.

So, What are the plans? Come in and critique my junk because I don't want to F anything up, or do things twice (Im looking at you, perfect pass wiring!!).

Battery cables to engine. I will be reusing this 4AWG wiring that you see as it is marine grade, tinned. It was too long, which means I can cut off the old, and Crimp on new fittings and heat shrink everything so no moisture gets in. I was originally planning on upgrading to 1/0, but Im trying not to spend too much as I have alot to spend in general.

Batteries. I have two new AGM batteries. Yes they are for a vehicle, but they were free a few years ago, so Im going to use them. They checked out at 920 CCA when I had them tested so still very healthy as I topped them up twice a year.

Batteries are being wired in parallel with 1/0. I plan on carrying with me the original battery in case I every need it to boost me. I doubt I will need it but its free ballast too. no changing out the current perko switch. It works.

Right after the perko I will have a 150A breaker.

1/0 is being run to under the drivers seat.

My wetsounds HT4 I picked up on sale two years ago (procrastination you *****) is being wired in with 4 awg.

So this is where I have some questions, in regard to my stereo. How in the heck do I best run 6 speaker off 1-4 channel amp? I should have bought a 6 CHANNEL, but now that I didnt, how best do I do this? I have two rear speakers, two mid, and two in the bow. Could I run the rear four off the amp, then the two fronts off the head unit? Do I just get a cheap 2 channel amp for the fronts?



To a 6 block sea system fuse panel I am running another 4 awg.
This fuse panel will run
- Perfect pass (hooray my gauges will read properly again)
- Depth finder
- New bilge pump
- Interior lighting
- Head unit for stereo

Oh ya, my cupholder thing for my engine cover hasn't had cup holder in a year. Im redoing that out of wood as all the plastic has disintegrated. Also upgraded from 3 to 4 cups. The plywood replacement piece will be covered in a couple coats of resin, sanded, and painted gloss white. One vent from the original will stay to blend things in.

Pics for fun. Ill get some more once amazon delivers my wires
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Last edited by Roman; 06-05-2018 at 10:36 PM.
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  #78  
Old 06-22-2018, 11:30 AM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
Posts: 1,130
Finally got some work done on the boat!!

-New AGM batteries installed in parallel using 1/0 wiring. Bought a 16 ton crimper to make all my own custom lines. So handy. Everything is sealed with dual wall adhesive lined shrink wrap.
-Added seperate branch to drivers side with 1/0 to power amp, and other misc devices like PP. fused with 200A auto fuse.
-Finally got my Amp and speakers wired in. Had them for 2 years...sort of emabrrassing. I actually need some help with this aswell. Originally I wired the 4 interior speakers to each channel, but now i want to put the two rear speakers on channel 1 and 2, and then the mid ship and bow speakers I want to put on channel 3 and 4. IS there an optimum way of doing this? Anyone audio gurus care to draw me out a diagram? For example, should left and right be on distinctive channels?
-The plywood you see is my electrical rack. Its all wired up but i want to take it apart one last time to paint it white and finish tidying up the loose wires so it looks pro, then Ill post of a pic of it.
-Got my PP cable hidden, which is great. Use to run across the floor which was a pain.
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  #79  
Old 06-22-2018, 11:36 AM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
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some more
Made a new upholder thing. Old one fell apart and the new cupholders were too large for the old holes. Plus now I have 4 instead of 3. Cut it out of plywood and covered in fiberglass resin. The plan was to paint it white but my wife says to leave it as its good enough. I think I might leave it alone. Well see how it goes.

Over the weekend my goal is get my new depth finder installed too so we finally know how deep the water really it. And to get wiring for the speakers totally done and wrap up the electrical panel I built.
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  #80  
Old 06-23-2018, 10:27 AM
ChadH ChadH is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Boat: 1992 MasterCraft Maristar 240sc 454HO
Location: Northwest
Posts: 33
It's looking good, nice work.
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