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  #101  
Old 10-31-2018, 04:10 PM
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1redTA 1redTA is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Boat: 1981 MasterCraft 351W slot
Location: Pace, FL
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running well is all that matters
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1981 MasterCraft
19' Skier 351W PowerSlot
Long gone is the Trans AM waiting for another
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  #102  
Old 10-31-2018, 05:16 PM
CrashCourse316 CrashCourse316 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: MasterCraft, 280 SST, 2005, Twin 375 Crusader
Location: Michigan
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Originally Posted by 1redTA View Post
running well is all that matters
no such thing as unfix-able. : )
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Boat: 2005 Maristar 280 SST Twin Crusader 375
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  #103  
Old 10-31-2018, 09:16 PM
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kyfooter kyfooter is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Boat: 2013 197 WTT / 1992 Barefoot Sanger
Location: DFW
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Cross off the prop as the culprit. A 13x13 prop was quite common for non powerslot transmission boats for many, many years and WOT for the direct drive Mastercrafts has almost always been between 4400-4800 rpms.

An under pitched prop would lead to higher RPMs, not lower. 14x18 prop was common for the powerslot transmission, but WOT was still within the range above. Newer powerslot boats went to a 14x20.

There are plenty of smart folks who will be able to offer suggestions, but until you run a computer check, I think you’re chasing and hoping to guess right, while throwing money at parts that may look worn, but work well.

There are worse problems to have with a boat. Starts easily and runs smooth, looks to be well cared for, enjoy it. Good find.
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  #104  
Old 11-05-2018, 07:40 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Boat: 1995 Prostar 205 5.7L
Location: Mountain West
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Before you run and think you need to spend $$$ on a PC hook up.. do the basics and some basic maintenance. You should have a some codes stored in the ecu if tps out of range, map sensor out of range, or ect data out of range. I thonk you drive train needs some refurbishment before throwing too many dollars at it.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
So I was finally able to get the led lights to test for codes and it is clear. Just 12's, which I guess is good. So out of an abundance of caution, and because none of this is very expensive, I will be changing out the distributor cap, rotor, ignition module, plugs, and fuel filter prior to spring. I will also be checking the timing the first time I get back out on the water as well.

If that doesn't work fix it, the only thing left that I can think of is the fuel pump and/or injectors.
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