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  #21  
Old 05-07-2018, 10:54 PM
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Dillinewton Dillinewton is offline
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Boat: 2005 Prostar 197 TT
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Am I wrong in thinking that once it gets to operating temperature. It should stay there? I believe itís a 170 thermostat, so I feel like thatís where it should operate. Not below, not above.


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  #22  
Old 05-08-2018, 09:25 AM
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Dillinewton Dillinewton is offline
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Boat: 2005 Prostar 197 TT
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I emailed ilmor last night around 8:30 and they responded this morning at 6:30. Good work ilmor. They said it sounded like the pressure relief valve. So after they explained where it was located, I took it apart and found this. Seems like this should fix the problem. It is located in the line running from the raw water to the thermostat. Will give an update after the lake test.


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  #23  
Old 05-08-2018, 10:45 PM
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Dillinewton Dillinewton is offline
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Valve canít be bypassed and a new one made the repair.


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  #24  
Old 06-07-2018, 06:31 PM
NewName NewName is offline
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I canít see the pictures, can u upload them again?


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  #25  
Old 06-09-2018, 11:01 AM
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Dillinewton Dillinewton is offline
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Are you just trying to locate the part on your motor?


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  #26  
Old 10-31-2018, 02:46 PM
NewName NewName is offline
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2014 Ilmor 5.7 Overheating

All good, my ilmor donít have this valve.
I modified my whole cooling and heater system, until now, no overheating so far.


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  #27  
Old 11-05-2018, 11:21 PM
AFBMM190 AFBMM190 is offline
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Boat: 1996 Prostar 190
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Foggy,

You mentioned a theory that the dripless shaft seal was taking the water away from an inefficient raw water intake system @ idle. I may have some data to back that statement up?

I have a LT1 and I replace the engine water pump every four years whether it needs it or not, and it usually does. I change the impeller every two years and I change the thermostats every four years as well. I've never had an overheating problem? My engine temp usually runs around 165, rarely does it fluctuate. I also have a heater.

Recently, I had a dripless shaft seal installed and the dealer took the water feed from a 'T' junction off the back of the starboard side exhaust riser cross over drain hose. The Glide shaft seal manufacturer recommends taking the water from the intake side.

During the water test after the dripless was installed, my engine temps now runs around 175 and jumps up at idle to 177. Also, the starboard side exhaust riser runs too hot to touch, where the port side exhaust riser is warm to the touch. IIRC, I use to be able to touch both risers as they didn't get too warm? The last thing I noticed was the heater wasn't getting as warm as normal? My heater usually works really well.

I want to stress that prior to the dripless shaft seal install, my engine temp was a rock solid 165.

One more thing to note, my test was in colder water, so I was shocked to see my engine temp warm up to 175 so fast? Normally, colder water takes the engine a little longer to warm up.

I'm not sure I'm sold on the dripless shaft seals? It seems more complicated than needed. I've ran 22 years with the old style packing box. I don't like that my LT1 is losing precious cooling water?

I very well may be undoing a dripless shaft seal install?



Quote:
Originally Posted by FoggyNogginz View Post
I just thought I would dump this out there in case it helps:

On mine, we identified several culprits to investigate for cooling issues via the help of MC, MikeG, and many others on this forum. However, it also comes down to the fact that the raw water cooling system is really not efficient enough to properly prime under idle. Some may argue this point, but bear with me a moment. This is an issue for people like myself who take the boat out of the water everyday (or if you are running it on a hose in your driveway), because this model also has a dripless shaft seal so the water runs out of the shaft seal instead of remaining in the manifolds like it did on the indmar systems. So while you can run these models on a hose, I would not go much above idle when doing so, even if using the bucket method.

This being said, I have a few recommendations:
1. Check all hoses in the cooling system for debris, blockage, rubber pieces from the impeller.
2 Remove the flush pro if you have one to eliminate possible sources of air in the system.
3. Remove the seacock strainer from the system if you have one, and/or ask MC for the upgraded model of the strainer. I removed mine entirely because my lake is quite clean and I have never ran a boat with a strainer before. However, if you want to replace the strainer once your troubleshooting is complete....feel free.
4. This boat has a circulator pump and a RW pump. Occasionally, the circulator pumps will fail, and you can tell this from a visual inspection if you will take the pump apart on a bench to inspect it. I had my dealer do this at their request because reportedly some were breaking internally.
5. Because of the dripless shaft seal that I mentioned above, I would never run this boat on a hose out of the water for an extended period of time. Too much water is lost from the dripless shaft seal, and the system does not remain well primed.
6. Yes, the thermostat has a flow hole that must be aligned with the flow of the water. Apparently, many of these were installed backwards or not aligned at all from the factory. I cannot remember the exact setting, but I know that I made a post on here somewhere about it. If you cannot find this, please let me know. Mine was NOT properly installed, and the dealer caught this after three visits to their shop.
7. Next I agree with the above statement that the computer alarm may not be inline with the thermostat and the "normal operating range" for the engine. I experienced this as well and my dealer changed the alarm levels.
8. Finally, when you put the Ilmor back in the water, the sad truth on these systems is that you often have to prime the pump at the dock to completely fill the manifolds with water and drive the air out of the system. This is something that I initially heard form MC, but I have also proven this to be true in the past season. In order to do this, take the boat out of gear and rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm for 30 seconds to completely prime the system. As long as I do this whenever I put the boat in the water now, it will not overheat. However, if I go several minutes at idle without getting under power, the system will never prime and it can/will get too hot.

Sorry for the long winded response, but I really hope that this helps. I love my boat, but it certainly had a few gremlins when I got it. I also understand that there is a new part number for the impeller all open cooled Ilmor engines except the Ilmor 7.L, and this is Part #PV06764, and this replaced MV8V-1178 per Ilmor's website.

http://ilmor.com/store/product/2198/...t_id=4&search=

Be sure to ask your dealer which impeller they have in stock because I had to call three shops last week to get the new one, which according to many on this site is made of a new rubber composition that is much more durable.

Best of luck, and keep us posted on your progress. I'd love to see that new Prostar too!
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