Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > General / Other

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-09-2015, 02:26 PM
walterlaughlin's Avatar
walterlaughlin walterlaughlin is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Boat: 1995 Mastercraft Maristar 200 VRS
Location: NorCal
Posts: 190
Replacement bilge pump

I'm looking to find a replacement bilge pump for my MC before my current one fails. I have a 1995 Maristar 200VRS with the stock bilge pump (I believe). It is a pretty small unit, yellow in color, with a float switch. Anyone know the make/model of this guy and where to find a new one? Thanks
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-10-2015, 09:08 AM
CantRepeat's Avatar
CantRepeat CantRepeat is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Boat: Passively looking for a CSX 265
Location: Roll Tide!!
Posts: 14,729
Most of the new pumps have the float built into them so you could eliminate that part of the equation.

If you just want to replace the pump, it looks like you have this Johnson model.

http://www.waterskis.com/39225-p/joh...ump_750gph.htm

Is it the pump of the float that is going bad?
__________________
Tim

"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-10-2015, 11:44 AM
CC2MC's Avatar
CC2MC CC2MC is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Boat: 2005 x-10
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,412
The stock pumps are usually 750GPH pumps. As CantRepeat said, most of the new pumps have the floats built into them. I just went to WalMart and found some Attwood 500GPH pumps on clearance for $20, when normally $49. I already replaced my fwd pump, so I just bought another for the rear. My local dealer charger about $50 for the 750gph pumps, iirc.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-10-2015, 12:02 PM
peason's Avatar
peason peason is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: MC, 209, 2002, 310 HP
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,110
bought my replacement pump from Skidim online - plug and play!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-10-2015, 07:59 PM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1991 Prostar 190
Location: Southeast - Nashville, TN area
Posts: 110
I needed to replace my '91 PS190 bildge pump (which looks exactually like yours) and I found one at my local Bass Pro Shops. I wanted to replace the pump with the same exact part as I intended to reuse the existing mounting holes in the hull. Point is yes you can find the same design pumps. I've seen them labeled as either made by Johnson or Mayfair. My new one came with a plastic mounting bracket that matched up perfectly with the original mounting holes in my '91 PS190. On my boat my bilge float switch was totally missing so I wasn't able to figure out a perfect match there. Still I adapted one that works ok and I also was able to reuse an existing mounting hole.

Last edited by GKinTN; 07-11-2015 at 06:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-11-2015, 06:29 PM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1991 Prostar 190
Location: Southeast - Nashville, TN area
Posts: 110
I updated my post above with the brand name.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-23-2015, 08:36 AM
noelslater noelslater is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Boat: 1998 Maristar 200 VRS
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 7
I'm trying to install a new float switch in my 98 Maristar 200. Bought the exact same part (so I thought) - Johnson Pump 3615. Old float switch had 2 wires. New one has 3. I tried different combinations of connecting the 3 wires to the 2 that ran to the old switch but it's not working yet.

Does anyone know how to connect a 3-wire switch to 2 existing wires?
__________________
1998 Maristar 200 VRS
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-23-2015, 08:47 AM
Gamble's Avatar
Gamble Gamble is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2008
Boat: Mastercraft Prostar 209 310 Predator
Location: Southwest
Posts: 434
It sounds as though that float is designed to work in manual "on" mode or in the "automatic" mode, depending on the position of the switch. In your case, you have what sounds like a simple on/off switch, which is fine. All you need to do if you want the pump to function in the "auto" mode by means of the float switch, is apply power to the switch and on the other side of the switch, place float in the middle. When the float activates (rises), it will complete the circuit, and provided the switch you have is turned on, the pump will run. You'll need to ground the float switch, take the switched leg on the switch to the brown wire I believe on your pump. You'll only use 2 of the wires on the float. Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-24-2015, 08:50 AM
noelslater noelslater is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Boat: 1998 Maristar 200 VRS
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 7
Thanks for the reply Gamble. THat's what I originally thought (only use 2 of the 3 wires on new float switch); however, none of the combinations I tried worked.

Has anyone out there successfully replaced a 2-wire float switch with a 3-wire float switch? How did you wire it?
__________________
1998 Maristar 200 VRS
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-24-2015, 02:33 PM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1991 Prostar 190
Location: Southeast - Nashville, TN area
Posts: 110
I bet with a volt meter you can find two specific wires (on your new 3 wire switch) that will have continuity when the switch is lifted, and go open when dropped down like the original switch. Then you can simply wire it up like the original using those two wires.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:12 PM.


2018