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  #1  
Old 08-06-2018, 02:10 AM
svmagnum svmagnum is offline
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Boat: 2007 ProStar 197
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Few electrical issues

Hello Everyone
Im new, been reading for a while but couldnt find what i need.
Recently purchase 2007 prostar 197 and it has weird electrical issues. Not sure if they are related or not.

1. Bilge pump doesn't work in auto mode. Thought it was a bilge pump so i bought new one to replace the old one but new one didnt activate on auto mode either. Works fine in manual mode. Maybe my switch is wired incorrectly. Does anyone has a pic of proper switch wiring? Or any suggestions? Which of the wires to trace and where?

2. Depth gauge. Sometimes shows depth. Sometimes says no data. Sometimes shows some high number. Where is the depth sensor located so i can see if there is wiring problem. All while boat is sitting on trailer or in water. Where do i look to start zeroing in on the problem?

3. Gauges. Engineer who decided that its a great idea to turn off all the gauges with one is faulty should be burned. To begin my gauges were intermittently working. Then I read a lot about troubleshooting them. And realized i need to unplug them one by one to find the one that doesn't work. So i unplugged volt meter and they started working mostly but now its back to working intermittently. Should i keep unplugging gauges?


4. My boat doesnt stop beeping. Took a big wave recently and ever since it beeps non stop. Where do i look? I found a temp solution to unplug the beeper itself but id rather find a fix.

5. Where is check engine light? It says in the manual it should be right after the tach. But i dont see it. Is it supposed to show something on the screen?

6. Deutsch connectors. Do i really need a specific cramping tool or pliers and a bit of patience will work?

7. OBD scanner. Read somewhere something about jumping regular car obd and you can read codes? Is it true?

8. If i buy VDIG mmdc will VDIG module work on ill be completely incompatible?

Sorry lots of questions but please help.
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2018, 08:59 AM
Mastar Mastar is offline
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I believe #4 is related to #1 ... is your new bilge pump an automatic pump? Does it come on when you hit the switch
My depth gauge does the same, so I'd be interested to hear others opinions too
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  #3  
Old 08-06-2018, 09:27 AM
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Keith2230 Keith2230 is offline
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Wow, that's a lot going on. I'll take a stab at a few but really I think everything is pointing at one common denominator (minus the bilge pump that is), your MMDC. If I was in your position I'd be looking to have my MMDC checked out.

1. Attached pump wiring chart.
2. My depth gauge is accessible through the floor access panel next to the helm but I think they move this around a bit on the various models. They're glued to the hull and if they start coming loose and air gets in there they'll report odd things like you're reporting. They also feed the data they collect to the MMDC to show on the LCD screen so there's a couple of places this data can go wrong.
3. MMDC...yeah. Well pretty much every auto and boat manufacture is using a serial bus connection for controls. Saves them a ton of wiring but it makes it a nightmare for us to troubleshoot.
4. Pretty sure this is controlled by the MMDC
5. Check engine light on this model isn't actually a light. The LCD on the tach will indicate Check Engine.
6. I don't think you'll be able to make a good connector without the tools which would just compound your electrical gremlins.
7. Maybe. I know on the older ECM's you could but not sure on yours. Do you have cats?
8. Not quite that simple. Since all your guages, the engine and some of the sensors are all talking on a serial bus, they all need to be compatible. Pretty sure you'd end up replacing the MMDC and the dash with main screen at the very least. Not sure if the remaining gauges and sensors would need to be replaced or are compatible. I'm not aware of anyone who's attempted that conversion.
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2018, 06:22 PM
svmagnum svmagnum is offline
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Boat: 2007 ProStar 197
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Thank you for answers. Sorry for delay in getting back i didnt realize I'm not getting email notifications here. So as far as i understand by diagram - i have to trace brown wire to see where it got screwed up. The pump is on the same fuse regardless if its auto mode or manual I'd assume. And yes i tried testing auto mode when i pressed on the floating switch manually and it doesn't work on new pump or old pump. So it has to be the wire. Is there a specific connection point you'd recommend to check first before i start taking apart entire boat? And on the switch itself id assume if the rocker position is down for auto that means that brown wire should connect somewhere in the bottom connector. Or can it be that the switch itself is broken? Anyone by any chance has a picture of back of the switch as it has a lot of wires connected there.


So if tach doesn't say anything about check engine this means that there is no check engine and i can rule out that as a cause of my beeper not shutting up? or is that too connected through mmdc and isn't reliable too?

My stereo had some condensation inside of it and stopped working. But i unplugged it from the harness. Can it cause the beeping to go off too?


So in regards to beeping. Its not check engine as nothing on tach in regards to that. Its not low batt voltage, because i had low batt voltage indication on tach once and i replaced the battery after and it disappeared so if it'd be low batt then id see it on screen too. So what else is the reason for it to go off in a boat. It has to be saying something to me
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2018, 11:38 PM
Mastar Mastar is offline
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Is your alternator working? You should see it jump up from 11-12 ish to 13-14 when you start and rev it up a little
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  #6  
Old 08-16-2018, 01:24 AM
svmagnum svmagnum is offline
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well i guess it might not be working lol now that you told me that. I will pay attention to it. HAd only one day out with it after battery change.
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  #7  
Old 08-23-2018, 04:31 AM
svmagnum svmagnum is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastar View Post
Is your alternator working? You should see it jump up from 11-12 ish to 13-14 when you start and rev it up a little
Turns out you were correct. It is the alternator. New battery went low after few hours too. Can you tell me is it hard to replace alternator? Do i need special tool to tighten the belt back up?
Thank you.
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  #8  
Old 08-23-2018, 10:41 AM
CrashCourse316 CrashCourse316 is online now
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Shouldn't be too bad but it really depends on where it is located. You have a direct drive so shouldn't be too hard to find the bolts to take it off.

As for the belt just find the belt tensioner. It will probably be near the top and it rotates on a spring to keep the belt tight. Take a wrench that fits the bolt on it and turn to tighten it. Instead of tightening the bolt, the whole thing will move on the spring and make the belt loose. Just slide it off at that point. Make sure you take a good look at the belt before you remove it so you have an idea of how it goes back on. when the belt is back on everything but the tensioner just turn the tensioner again and slide the belt back on. easy one man job.
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