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Old 09-06-2018, 09:22 PM
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titleist93mc titleist93mc is offline
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Boat: Masercraft, Prostar 190, 1993, 5.8L
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12V source?

OK, I know this sounds crazy, but I cannot for the life of me figure this situation out.

First of all, everything works in my 1993 Prostar 190. I installed a head unit and speakers back a few years ago and everything has been working fine since then.

So I decided I would add a 5 channel amp and a small sub to really round out the system for me.

So today, I went through just to hook up the sub (waiting on some more RCA cables for the speakers).

For some background, I am running a Clarion M309 head unit. It has 6 RCA outputs that can be used. Everything is wired up to the stock access points for both the radio, the memory, one of the access lines for the illumination, and one of the ground wires for the ground. This I assume is all factory MC stuff as they are all labeled and drop down from the hole in the footwell that goes through to the gauges up top.

Once again, everything with the head unit works great.

But today when I went to hook up the amp, I am getting no power to the remote output on the head unit. I have the amp run to a seperate battery, so it has dedicated a dedicated 12V and ground source. After testing things with a multimeter I confirmed, no power to the remote. The amp would power on (since I have it directly connected to a separate battery, but would immediately turn off when I switched the key on.

So I thought I would just do some testing. I connected the remote line from the amp to the battery where I have the 12V and ground run. Wa-la, powers on no problem and stays on.

So I thought maybe the remote line out was bad on the head unit. So I thought I would tap into the switched 12V line to the head unit. Snipped that line and twisted the three ends together for testing. Switch on, radio on, no power to amp. Once again turns on then off.

I thought this was really weird, so I pulled the lines apart. No power to the head unit anymore. Attach them back together and head unit works fine.

So I did more testing. Ran the remote directly to the battery, ran the RCA from head unit out to the amp, speaker wire to sub. Amp powers on and stays on fine, but no power to the sub, meaning no signal from the RCA.

At this point I kind of threw up my hands as this is getting past my expertise. Anyone have any idea what I am missing?! Pulling my hair out with this one.

I have no idea how the head unit could run, yet when I tap into the 12V switched wire to power the remote, I get no voltage.

Does this have anything to do with me running a separate battery for the amp?
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:31 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Well, once you get the head unit fiexed/replaced, you will NOT want the amp and head unit on different battery sources = noise

Did you test for voltage on the blue turn-on lead right at the head unit connector with the head unit powered up without the turn on lead connected on the other end? Results?

Sounds like you have some "whiskers" from your amp ground cable strayed over to the turn-on terminal.
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:51 PM
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titleist93mc titleist93mc is offline
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I did - no voltage there. But no voltage showing on the red 12V source either when switched on. I think my multimeter is ok. I tested it on the battery and it read over 12V.

I may swap the batteries out in the multimeter, but no power is no power regardless. Since connecting it to the remote line at the head unit resulted in no power to the amp, and connecting it directly to the extra battery provided power just fine.

I don't plan on running the extra battery. I am waiting on 15ft of 4 awg welding cable coming in tomorrow so I can make a couple long run cables for direct 12V and ground sources at my main battery in the rear.

I just threw this one in the observer's seat storage compartment to test things while waiting on my cables to get here. Took it out of our other boat. Know that battery is charged fine, as we just had the other boat out, and after I put it back in tonight after testing, it fired that boat off just fine.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
I did - no voltage there. But no voltage showing on the red 12V source either when switched on
Ok, need to get the horse before the cart. You will never get voltage out of the head unit turn-on until the head unit powers up. In order for the head to power up, you need a ground path on the black, 12V on the yellow and 12V (usually switched) on the red.

Solve this and get the head powered up first.
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:37 AM
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titleist93mc titleist93mc is offline
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Everything is hooked up fine. Here are the pics of how the head unit is wired into the stock wiring:





And the wires that feed this go up to the gauge cluster:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 09-07-2018, 11:12 AM
MLA MLA is offline
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Something is not "hooked up fine". As you stated, no voltage on the head unit switched red IGN lead. Im not saying its not wired correctly, but there is something wrong if there is no voltage on the red switched IGN. Find out why, solve it and I bet the head unit will power up and thus the amps. I can only go by your info.
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Old 09-07-2018, 11:22 AM
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titleist93mc titleist93mc is offline
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That is the thing. The head unit powers up just fine and runs no problem. Powers all four speakers etc. Has worked no problem for years now.
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Old 09-07-2018, 12:06 PM
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Sorry for the confusion, only going off of the statement of no voltage on the red.

If the head powers up and you do not get 12V on the blue turn-on with the disconnected, then the circuit is blown inside the amp.

This can be caused by strands of ground cable at the amp touching the turn-on terminal. Even more rare, would be a defective amp blowing that circuit.
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:49 AM
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titleist93mc titleist93mc is offline
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Well I think I figured it out yesterday after all the friends left.

I ran a new grounding wire from the battery to the radio, instead of having it connected to the factory wires labeled "ground".

Low and behold I now got 12V from the remote out from the head unit. So I think the issue was just a weak/bad ground.

So the plan now is to run a 4 awg ground cable to a distribution block and then run a 4 awg ground cable to the amp and just a 12-14ga ground wire to the head unit.

Sadly though, I had to leave the lake and come back to work. But should be able to knock all that out next time I am up there. Had to order some 15' 4 awg welding cable to make some long lines to run from the battery to the passenger side storage well where everything will be installed.

Could also run a second battery as well to help out, may think about that. Running this amp to four polk db 651s and an 8" bazooka tube:

http://soundstream.com/product/mr5-2000d/

Any thoughts on needing the second battery?
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