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Old 09-17-2018, 08:27 AM
ksdaoski ksdaoski is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Boat: x1
Location: midwest
Posts: 348
Not A Stereo Guy, Adding Tower Speakers to 2007 X1

Will fully admit, not a stereo guy. Can do plenty of maintenance, plumbed in all my ballast, overall pretty hand-ons with my cars and boats. But stereo work is like Greek.

Adding 4 2007 factory tower JL speakers to current system, which is a pair of JL speakers in the rear seating, and a pair of JL speakers in the bow, along with a Clarion CMD4 Head Unit. No existing amp. Only 1 battery. Have a series of "dumb" questions.

Would like to add a 2nd battery:
1. What batteries should I be using? Need to upgrade current battery anyways.
2. WI boating law requires all batteries be covered. Current battery is located behind passenger seat, half sub floor. Is it safe to mount 2nd battery box, next to existing battery? Will need to drill into subfloor.
3. Use a Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit? Is that all I need? One battery then becomes the "house" and one the "starting"?

Amp:
1. Can I use the JL M600/6 for the tower speakers and the original 2 pairs of speakers? Or can I use the HU for current speakers and the Amp just for the tower speakers?
2. Do the existing speaker wires just connect to the Amp? Or do I need to convert them? i/e Remove them from the Head Unit and just connect to Amp?
3. Tower speaker locations are pre-wired, but not sure if they are already connected to HU?
4. Need a fuse that connects straight to the battery. Need anything else?
5. Mount on the inner wall or the outer wall? Glass in blocks and connect? Or something easier?
6. JL M600/6 as mentioned, or Wet Sounds, or ?
7. With that setup, how can I control the Tower Speaker volume vs the existing speakers?
8. Anything else I'm missing?

HU:
1. Just keep current?
2. Missing bluetooth, but use line in for phone, etc.

Sorry for all these questions. Didn't realize that adding tower speakers would be so complex!

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2018, 11:27 AM
bturner2's Avatar
bturner2 bturner2 is online now
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
Location: Brighton, MI
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There is a ton of planing that needs to be done before tackling these projects but it is doable even for the novice IF you take your time and educate yourself. I'd recommend reading the "add a Battery" thread to get an idea of what you need and how to get there. Here are my short answers to your questions. I'm certainly not the undisputed expert on these topics but have completed several clean installations without issue.

1. What batteries should I be using? Need to upgrade current battery anyways.
Want to start a Jihad on this forum? Ask what are the best batteries. I personally went with a pair of Blue Tops and have owned them for 5 seasons without issues. That being said there's more to owning AGM batteries than plugging them in so they may not be for you.

2. WI boating law requires all batteries be covered. Current battery is located behind passenger seat, half sub floor. Is it safe to mount 2nd battery box, next to existing battery? Will need to drill into subfloor.
WI is very different than MI. Most off shore boats use trays because they're able to positively lock the batteries down. Regardless the answer is yes and yes. It'll also make the connections easier if the batteries are next to each other.

3. Use a Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit? Is that all I need? One battery then becomes the "house" and one the "starting"?
Yes, no and yes. The "Add a Battery" system will give you the components you need as far and the switch and relay go. It does not include any cables, bus bars, fuses, breakers or connectors you'll need to wire the installation.

Last edited by bturner2; 09-17-2018 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:53 AM
bturner2's Avatar
bturner2 bturner2 is online now
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Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
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Part 2....

Amp:
1. Can I use the JL M600/6 for the tower speakers and the original 2 pairs of speakers? Or can I use the HU for current speakers and the Amp just for the tower speakers?
When I upgrade my system I used a 600/6 for the 4 cockpit speaker (one channel to each speaker) then bridged two of the channels for the sub). I then bought 200/2 to power the 4 Wet Sounds tower speakers.

2. Do the existing speaker wires just connect to the Amp? Or do I need to convert them? i/e Remove them from the Head Unit and just connect to Amp?
The pre main outputs from the head unit will connect to the inputs of the amps. The amp outputs will connect to the speakers.

3. Tower speaker locations are pre-wired, but not sure if they are already connected to HU?
Mine were not nor were the 2 other boats that I've installed system in. Tower speakers as an option that come with an amp from the factory. I'd be surprised if those wires were connected to anything.

4. Need a fuse that connects straight to the battery. Need anything else?
Consider using breakers instead of fuses. Breakers are re-settable. Make sure you use marine rated components if possible.

5. Mount on the inner wall or the outer wall? Glass in blocks and connect? Or something easier?
I've typically mounted amps on the wall against the walkway on the passenger side. This typically where MC mounts their systems.

6. JL M600/6 as mentioned, or Wet Sounds, or ?
I personally like to do stock OEM installations but Wet Sounds makes good gear and shouldn't be any problem.

7. With that setup, how can I control the Tower Speaker volume vs the existing speakers?
No, at least not easily or quickly. You would need to add a separate gain controller for the tower speakers.

8. Anything else I'm missing?
Always even if you think you've covered everything. this is what comes to mind right off the bat.....

Marine rated speaker wire, heat shrink water tight crimp connectors, buss bars for grounding and power, circuit breakers for the amps, stainless steel screws to attach the amps to the side wall and battery box to the floor, a gain device to control the tower speakers quickly come to mind.

HU:
1. Just keep current?
2. Missing bluetooth, but use line in for phone, etc.

If you're this far down the line with the upgrade I'd buy a new head unit that matched my remote(s) that had Bluetooth.

Last edited by bturner2; 09-17-2018 at 12:25 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-17-2018, 12:47 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: pontoon
Location: Lake Wylie Area
Posts: 1,532
1) a good quality wet cell lead acid can do just fine. A group-24 cranking for the main side and a group-29/31 for the house side. Might consider an on-board charger also.
2) perfectly safe to locate new next to existing. If the original battery is recessed into the floor, id say its safe to mount the new one to the floor next to it.
3) besides cabling, terminals, battery, box and a proper wiring diagram, yeah.

1) Yes, but you can use a 6 chnl amp for 4 tower speakers and 4 in-boats. I do not recall what the 07 OEM speaker where, but id maybe want a little more wattage for them
2) in a round about way. You will likely want to just run new wires from each speaker to the amp, rather then splice in an extension if they are not long enough to make the relocation. Wont hurt to replace the 11 yr old wire.
3) no, tower speakers would not have ever connected to head unit. They would have connected to a factory installed amp. Those wires are likely bundled up in the gunewale somewhere between the tower mount and port locker. Likely pairs of green and purple wires.
4) yes you need proper circuit protection for the amp, but this is where you need a good wire diagram thats relevant to your boat.
5) Either location can be doable. Just need to make sure the inner wall is thick enough, or it will have to be made thick enough. I dont think the outer water was ever a location MC used, so I doubt its got a glassed in board for mounting amps.
6) Id get an amp dedicated for the tower speaker, then use the 6 chnl for the 4 in-boats and mild woofer.
7) as long as the head unit has front and full range rear outputs, you can use FADE. Not the best, but it works.
8) if you are purchasing new gear from a reputable source, they can help to fill in all the other details regarding amp(s) installation setup and tuning and battery bank diagram.

1) does it work?
2) if it has rear AUX in, install a universal blue tooth like the Wet Sounds BT-UR
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