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  #251  
Old 09-22-2017, 11:03 AM
SpokaneSteve SpokaneSteve is offline
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Thank you! I printed this out and I'll work on it this weekend. I haven't done any maintenance on it since it was installed 4 years ago!

Seriously - thank you for taking the time to explain and illustrate the operation and maintenance of that part!

Cheers, Steve.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
I basically hit anything that moves or you'll want to move at a future date. The release pin and the bolt that attach the swing tongue are components that typically get over looked until something goes wrong and you need to get them apart. In this case (and in yours) it's the Reliable actuator itself. If you haven't touched it so far I'd start by pulling the release pin and see if it comes out easily. If yes, great, clean it up, hit it with some white grease and call that part done for the year. If not you can start hitting it with penetrating oil and trying to tape the pin out with a hammer and drift. Or do nothing and hope for the best.

Next I'd try and figure out what condition the mounting bolt is in. What I'm recommending here is to see if the bolt will actually turn and is not already fused in place. Loosen up the nut (that would be on the bottom of the tongue) on the mounting bolt. Back it off so you can see at least a 1/4" of threads. Put a wrench on the bolt head and see if you can turn the bolt. If you can you're in good shape and now would be a great time to pull it apart and lube it or apply some anti-seize to the bolt (I went with anti-seize this time around). If not you can start the process of soaking it down and trying to tap it loose.

On the coupler itself I basically hit anything that moves with fogging oil but I'm working on a trailer that's been maintained. If you've never lubed any of the moving parts you may want to start with penetrating oil then move to fogging oil or white grease once everything is moving freely. The pins I refer to are the ones circled in this picture below (which I shamelessly copied from a previous post). Those pins each have a set of rollers that ride on them internally. If you look underneath the coupler you can see them. I hit the outsides of the pins and also soak down the rollers from the bottom using the straw tube that comes with most penetrating and fogging oils. The idea here is that if you ever have to pull the internals apart these pins won't be frozen in place like the trailer I referenced in my post above.
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  #252  
Old 09-22-2017, 05:20 PM
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MC197indy MC197indy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpokaneSteve View Post
Thank you! I printed this out and I'll work on it this weekend. I haven't done any maintenance on it since it was installed 4 years ago!

Seriously - thank you for taking the time to explain and illustrate the operation and maintenance of that part!

Cheers, Steve.
I'm taking half the credit on this, bturner2 stole my pic/illustration from another post......lol
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  #253  
Old 09-22-2017, 10:17 PM
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osmonet osmonet is offline
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Boat: 2008 X2, MCX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksdaoski View Post
Penetrating oil, a large pin/punch, and a BFH.
Got the job done for me.

something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mayhew-La...9052/100154388
I wish.....I put a lot of energy into the punch method. Not a chance on mine.
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  #254  
Old 09-23-2017, 07:54 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Yeah based on your posts yours was forever fused together. I was thinking the same on those roller pins I was working on. I could get everything to move about 3/4 of an inch but I think all I was really doing was forcing the rollers over. My next move was going to be to slide it over as far as I could, cut the pin off with a die grinder then see if I could slide the inner member out. Once you start thinking about drilling or using a die grinder you know you're getting in deep.

I'm more than happy to share the credit with Indy for that fine picture......
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  #255  
Old 09-27-2017, 11:36 PM
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osmonet osmonet is offline
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So my next painful ordeal in the retrofit....

I was bleeding the brakes. Typical process, had the rear caliper bleed screw open and was pumping the actuator via the release screwdriver method. Put about 2 cans of brake fluid through and couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting anything from the bleed screw. Turns out my a section of brake line which was inside the frame had completely rusted through and I was just coating the inside of the trailer with brake fluid.

Why are all of these "simple" projects never simple.

Ugggghh


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  #256  
Old 09-28-2017, 11:39 PM
LOTW LOTW is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Boat: 2006 Mastercraft X-30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksdaoski View Post
Penetrating oil, a large pin/punch, and a BFH.
Got the job done for me.

something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mayhew-La...9052/100154388
I got my bolt off by filling it up with PB Blaster, lighting said blaster on fire and literally letting it burn (only way I could actually get enough heat to the middle of the bolt). While hot I used the impact driver and socket to vibrate the the bolt til it broke loose. I tried everything prior to that, and had ruined the bolt hammering on it from underneath.

Otherwise the retrofit went well. Got the sleeve powder coated gloss black.
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