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  #181  
Old 05-15-2017, 11:25 PM
manowicki manowicki is offline
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Boat: MC PS 190, 1993, LT1
Location: rky mtns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta_ski View Post
manowicki, can you post a pic of how you mounted your strainer?
. Here r some strainer pix. Sherwood Raw Water Strainer PN# 18016-SHW
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  #182  
Old 05-16-2017, 12:35 AM
mgs96ps mgs96ps is offline
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Make sure flow direction is correct....but I would recommend mounting view bowl up. Makes it a lot easier to see and remove when needed. It also keep it free from abrasions. It will require and little more attention getting the o-ring to seat. Either way...just make sure it not sideways. Lastly...it's a great investment, good choice.

Last edited by mgs96ps; 09-25-2017 at 12:01 AM.
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  #183  
Old 06-08-2017, 12:26 AM
Douglas001 Douglas001 is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1997 mastercraft maristar 225
Location: west
Posts: 6
Hello everyone out there. I'm in need of some help. I purchased a 97 Maristar VRS 225 with the LT-1 motor and it has 655 hours. When I test ran it on the lake last October all seemed fine. First time on the lake this year I experienced over heating. I've checked all the cooling lines and transmission heat exchanger to be sure there are no obstructions. I have changed the impeller and both thermostats 160 degree and 143 degree. On the lake at speed 4000 RPM I still experience over heating. I can run the motor at idle for 15 minutes with a hose filling an ice chest and a hose connected to the inlet hose of the V-drive. After 15 minutes the peak temperature is 200 and not rising. When I run the engine up to 1500 or 2000 RPM the temperature cools right down to 180 degrees. Once back at idle the temp continues to rise slowly again to a steady temp of 200. I have read through many of the posts and threads about this problem. Since my motor is a 97 and from the drawing provided it looks as if the factory has implemented MC96-001 service bulletin/ re-rout of steam lines to the front of the heads. In my case toward the rear of the boat. I check these lines and fittings and these are clear.

1st question: Where should the hole be drilled in the 160 degree thermostat? There is a bleed hole right where the flange connects to the body on the thermostat that I purchased. Doesn’t seem that anyone has posted a photo a drilled thermostat.

2nd question: Since the raw water inlet is directly on top of the runner support for the trailer. Has anyone experienced that this gets damaged and does not allow for good water flow at speed?

Any other comments suggestions or ideas are welcome.
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  #184  
Old 06-08-2017, 01:08 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas001 View Post
Hello everyone out there. I'm in need of some help. I purchased a 97 Maristar VRS 225 with the LT-1 motor and it has 655 hours. When I test ran it on the lake last October all seemed fine. First time on the lake this year I experienced over heating. I've checked all the cooling lines and transmission heat exchanger to be sure there are no obstructions. I have changed the impeller and both thermostats 160 degree and 143 degree. On the lake at speed 4000 RPM I still experience over heating. I can run the motor at idle for 15 minutes with a hose filling an ice chest and a hose connected to the inlet hose of the V-drive. After 15 minutes the peak temperature is 200 and not rising. When I run the engine up to 1500 or 2000 RPM the temperature cools right down to 180 degrees. Once back at idle the temp continues to rise slowly again to a steady temp of 200. I have read through many of the posts and threads about this problem. Since my motor is a 97 and from the drawing provided it looks as if the factory has implemented MC96-001 service bulletin/ re-rout of steam lines to the front of the heads. In my case toward the rear of the boat. I check these lines and fittings and these are clear.

1st question: Where should the hole be drilled in the 160 degree thermostat? There is a bleed hole right where the flange connects to the body on the thermostat that I purchased. Doesn’t seem that anyone has posted a photo a drilled thermostat.

2nd question: Since the raw water inlet is directly on top of the runner support for the trailer. Has anyone experienced that this gets damaged and does not allow for good water flow at speed?

Any other comments suggestions or ideas are welcome.
Check the raw water impeller.
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  #185  
Old 06-08-2017, 09:26 AM
Douglas001 Douglas001 is offline
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Boat: 1997 mastercraft maristar 225
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Posts: 6
Hello Jim--- The impeller is new. I even double checked the the install. The old impeller didn't look bad either. Any other suggestions?
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  #186  
Old 06-08-2017, 09:56 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Douglas001 View Post
Hello Jim--- The impeller is new. I even double checked the the install. The old impeller didn't look bad either. Any other suggestions?
Make sure the upper thermostat housing doesn't have chunks from an old impeller.

The through-hull fitting for raw water pickup is cast bronze- it's pretty hard to damage that with wooden bunks unless a bolt works loose and sticks up.

You should be able to pour water into the hose at the raw water pump inlet (or put a garden hose in) to make sure the water runs through without restriction- it's possible for the oil cooler to become clogged without seeing it from the back end.
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  #187  
Old 06-08-2017, 11:32 AM
Douglas001 Douglas001 is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1997 mastercraft maristar 225
Location: west
Posts: 6
Hello Jim---
Thanks for your help. The old impeller came out intact and seemed to be in good condition. I did check the transmission heat exchanger. I removed both water hoses from each end and used a flash light to be sure that the holes were clear. Is there an engine oil cooler that the water runs through?

Looking down from the inside of the boat through the tube toward the raw water inlet. The raw water inlet appears to be white plastic and not brass.

In your opinion in the test with using the ice chest as a water source. Does my description sound like normal operstion? Should the motor run cooler at idle after 15 minutes?
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  #188  
Old 06-09-2017, 09:51 PM
manowicki manowicki is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: MC PS 190, 1993, LT1
Location: rky mtns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas001 View Post
Hello everyone out there. I'm in need of some help. I purchased a 97 Maristar VRS 225 with the LT-1 motor and it has 655 hours. When I test ran it on the lake last October all seemed fine. First time on the lake this year I experienced over heating. I've checked all the cooling lines and transmission heat exchanger to be sure there are no obstructions. I have changed the impeller and both thermostats 160 degree and 143 degree. On the lake at speed 4000 RPM I still experience over heating. I can run the motor at idle for 15 minutes with a hose filling an ice chest and a hose connected to the inlet hose of the V-drive. After 15 minutes the peak temperature is 200 and not rising. When I run the engine up to 1500 or 2000 RPM the temperature cools right down to 180 degrees. Once back at idle the temp continues to rise slowly again to a steady temp of 200. I have read through many of the posts and threads about this problem. Since my motor is a 97 and from the drawing provided it looks as if the factory has implemented MC96-001 service bulletin/ re-rout of steam lines to the front of the heads. In my case toward the rear of the boat. I check these lines and fittings and these are clear.

1st question: Where should the hole be drilled in the 160 degree thermostat? There is a bleed hole right where the flange connects to the body on the thermostat that I purchased. Doesn’t seem that anyone has posted a photo a drilled thermostat.

2nd question: Since the raw water inlet is directly on top of the runner support for the trailer. Has anyone experienced that this gets damaged and does not allow for good water flow at speed?

Any other comments suggestions or ideas are welcome.
. Here's a drilled T-stat pic 4 u
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  #189  
Old 07-18-2017, 09:22 AM
waterskibrad
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how much water flow are you getting out the exhaust pipes
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  #190  
Old 07-18-2017, 09:41 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas001 View Post
Hello Jim---
Thanks for your help. The old impeller came out intact and seemed to be in good condition. I did check the transmission heat exchanger. I removed both water hoses from each end and used a flash light to be sure that the holes were clear. Is there an engine oil cooler that the water runs through?

Looking down from the inside of the boat through the tube toward the raw water inlet. The raw water inlet appears to be white plastic and not brass.

In your opinion in the test with using the ice chest as a water source. Does my description sound like normal operstion? Should the motor run cooler at idle after 15 minutes?
These can move a lot of water and an ice chest isn't usually enough to avoid running out. When I started working at the first dealership, they had a 5 gallon water bottle (from a water cooler) with a hole in it for the hose going to the inlet for the oil cooler and the garden hose went in the top. That could be evacuated in about ten seconds at 1500 RPM. At the second dealer, I had a larger container and it allowed me to see if it was picking up enough water over a longer time. If it can't move the water from ground level to the engine, it's time to change the impeller and this is the main reason I hate the Fake A Lake.
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