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  #11  
Old 07-09-2015, 11:36 AM
Shaun R's Avatar
Shaun R Shaun R is offline
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Get a can on top engine cleaner and start to spray it around possible vacuum leak areas and listen for idle change. Throttle body could be leaking as well and gasket kit is cheap. Plugs look a little black but not bad.
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2015, 02:54 PM
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jlarkin.41 jlarkin.41 is offline
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Boat: 1994 Prostar LT1 1:1
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Thanks Shaun, I will have to check it out tomorrow when I have another chance to mess with it. I also just ordered a new set of plug wires from SkiDIM. I figure it can't hurt, and they are probably due anyways.

Are vacuum leaks indicative of low or rough idle on the LT1? Ive seen them cause problems with higher idle in the past.

I know my breather tube between my TB and Valve cover which I believe is the CCV is relatively loose, but it doesn't look like it is meant to be tight (no hose clamps).
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  #13  
Old 07-09-2015, 03:54 PM
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Shaun R Shaun R is offline
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I've seen it cause oil to get places where it shouldn’t be and throw off the idle. Computer helps to keep that in check unless carbed motors, but there is only so much it can do. You would know if you had a bad wire because it would miss and hesitate bad under load. You would also have one plug that was soaked in fuel while the rest looked good.

Mine is slow to start, in comparison to my LT4 car, but I think that's more marine tune than anything. Usually fires after one crank rotation then idles just fine.
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  #14  
Old 07-14-2015, 08:39 PM
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jlarkin.41 jlarkin.41 is offline
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Good news! After a few more nights of troubleshooting and several beers later, I replaced the IAC and it started right up. Tried it a few more times and it is running great now. Best I can figure is it was an intermittent failure of the IAC, it was almost like it was reacting very slowly.

I suppose the problems I had earlier in the season when pulling the throttle to neutral quickly after dropping my skier could have been an early indicator.

Picked up the IAC at Advanced for $35. Part number 21755 (BWD by Carquest)

Big perk of this was all the info I learned which should come in handy whenever the next issue pops up.

Thanks for the help, this forum is great.
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  #15  
Old 07-14-2015, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlarkin.41 View Post
Good news! After a few more nights of troubleshooting and several beers later, I replaced the IAC and it started right up. Tried it a few more times and it is running great now. Best I can figure is it was an intermittent failure of the IAC, it was almost like it was reacting very slowly.

I suppose the problems I had earlier in the season when pulling the throttle to neutral quickly after dropping my skier could have been an early indicator.

Picked up the IAC at Advanced for $35. Part number 21755 (BWD by Carquest)

Big perk of this was all the info I learned which should come in handy whenever the next issue pops up.

Thanks for the help, this forum is great.
I am glad you got it worked out. Stick around, you can learn a lot (and cheaply) from other people's problems.
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  #16  
Old 07-14-2015, 10:46 PM
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Shaun R Shaun R is offline
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Did you replace the gasket after cleaning and reinstalling the old iac? That can cause a vacuum leak and have the same symptoms as a bad Iac. But glad it's fixed.
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  #17  
Old 07-14-2015, 11:18 PM
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jlarkin.41 jlarkin.41 is offline
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I did clean the o ring on the old iac and oiled it prior to re install. With the new one I can actually hear it move when the key is turned to the on position.

The old one would either open slow or fail to open. I figured it was the iac when I was listening closely to the suction sound on the air cleaner at start up. It seemed to modulate rather than be constant or stabilize.
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fuel system, hard start, ignition problem, lt1

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