Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Engine / Drive Train

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 04-10-2017, 06:48 PM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by ABIELX205LT1 View Post
The service bulletin has been done in my 160 thermostat has been drilled also I have a new knock sensor. I put a calibrated decade box hooked it up to the harness that is going to the computer according to the charts found on brakes online and here for the ECT 467 ohms = 158F it still went into limp mode / rpm reduction mode
Did it go over 2000 RPM?
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 04-11-2017, 01:34 AM
Cumminscj Cumminscj is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Boat: 86 Magnum Skier
Location: Southeast
Posts: 281
If the ECT is showing 158 have you tried bypassing the overheat switch? I know you said it tested good to 35o or something like that but for diagnostic purposes I would temporarily bypass it.
__________________
1986 Marlin Magnum Skiier-sold
2000 Maristar 210VRS-weekend ride
1996 205 with LT1 cracked block-winter project
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 04-11-2017, 10:15 AM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1redTA View Post
knock sensor?
That won't cause RPM reduction, only timing.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-11-2017, 10:22 AM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by ABIELX205LT1 View Post
The service bulletin has been done in my 160 thermostat has been drilled also I have a new knock sensor. I put a calibrated decade box hooked it up to the harness that is going to the computer according to the charts found on brakes online and here for the ECT 467 ohms = 158F it still went into limp mode / rpm reduction mode
Did you open the engine cover and feel for excessive heat? If it's not actually overheating and the ECM sees resistance from the ECT that corresponds to 200+ degrees, you need to grab the harness and move it around to see if it returns to normal. You need to measure the resistance in real time, while the engine is running and the best way to do this is by connecting a diagnostic computer because it shows data, not blinking lights for codes. Did you check for and/or clear codes?

If you know that the engine isn't actually overheating, you can insert a resistor in the plug- unplugging it and cranking it might not even get it to run because the ECM will think it is so badly overheated that it won't even fire the injectors.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-12-2017, 03:03 PM
ABIELX205LT1 ABIELX205LT1 is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Boat: 1996 MASTERCRAFT 205 LT1
Location: SOUTHEAST
Posts: 10
I'M BACK with answers!!!! My boat is 99% Thank you all so much.
So first things first (F__ + many of bad words) to BOB AT OBD DIAGNOSTICS IN CALIFORNIA for the tremendous wild goose chase and ripping my off. I paid him a lot of money to assure my MEFI2 comp was in proper working order. So I took his word for it and Replaced the everything ( NEW- recirc water pump, i rebuilt the raw water pump, new thermostats, new CTS 3 times, IAC valve/motor, TPS (which i did recieve a bad one new out of the box from Oriellys) knock sensor. Water temp gauge) and my boat still didn't run correctly. Finally I proved to him that the Comp was bad by use a resistance box and video taping the comp reading and sending to him. long story short he says "wow your right, want to by a new one for $1700" and would not gave me any kind of refund/discount nothing to me to go else where. I did and found a mefi2 comp cal'd brand new from AZSPEED shop (Arizona) nice honest people I HIGHLY recommend them. Then it ran well until 2-3k rpms and would not go over 4k it would after fire, coughed and all kinds of ugliness. I went ahead and replaced the ICM and it runs like a new BADASS boat... except for that 1% i was riding with that family about 3-4k rpms and it fell into limp mode. popped the cal and let it breath for a few mins reset the comp via throttle key SQ. and hopped up and ran great. i'm going to check the blower hoses and inlet hose forward of the windshield and see if its breathing enough.
THANK YOU ALL AGAIN I APPRECIATE YA'LL
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 07-12-2017, 06:00 PM
mikeg205's Avatar
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
Location: Plainfield - Joliet, IL
Posts: 17,231
Send a message via Skype™ to mikeg205
what code did it throw when it choked?

did you ever get or make a cheap code reader for the mefi 2?

I have extra 12v LEDs - cuz yo can't buy just 1 -- if you want one.. PM me your address and I will mail one to you.
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 07-13-2017, 10:28 AM
ABIELX205LT1 ABIELX205LT1 is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Boat: 1996 MASTERCRAFT 205 LT1
Location: SOUTHEAST
Posts: 10
[quote=mikeg205;1356688]what code did it throw when it choked?

did you ever get or make a cheap code reader for the mefi 2?

I have extra 12v LEDs - cuz yo can't buy just 1 -- if you want one.. PM me your address and I will mail one to you.[/QUOTE

Thanks buddy I appreciate it. I have already bought the Cord and scan pro software from the D-bag BOB at OBD Diagnostics in Cali. The cord and program does work well though. I plan to try to make it out to the lake today and bring the computer and check codes.

BTW one of the other main problems before was the crank positioning sensor HARNESS I rebuilt it using some of my shielded wire at avionics wire at my shop. Huge success from that.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1996 prostar, limp mode, lt1, mefi2

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:24 AM.


2018