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  #1  
Old 06-23-2015, 02:07 AM
peterb peterb is offline
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Repack drive shaft?

We have a 1986 Master craft that runs well.... Just needs some TLC. One item I haven't addressed is the drive shaft packing. How often should that be checked / changed / maintenance / etc? What should we do or check to see if we need to address this? If we should do something... Recommendations?
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2015, 07:20 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Is it leaking more than on drop of water per second? If not leave it alone, it'll tell you when it need to be replaced. If it is you can try to adjust it by loosening the locking nut and tightening the adjusting nut in small increments.

I've found that most times by the time you start having to readjust the packing nut the packing has been compromised and will need to be changed out. I've typically gotten another season out of one that I had to start adjusting but that I had to keep adjusting throughout the rest of the season. Once they start leaking I personally would rather just replace the packing. But that's just my personal preference.
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:44 AM
KAvery17 KAvery17 is offline
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I have a 1984 Mastercraft S&S and replaced the packing and it was very simple. Got the right tool with a hook end on it (can't think of the correct name) and pulled the old packing out. Ordered new packing on eBay and kept the old packing for measuring purposes. Once the new packing arrived I measured and stuffed it back in carefully and it doesn't leak a drop.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:06 AM
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milehigh970 milehigh970 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAvery17 View Post
I have a 1984 Mastercraft S&S and replaced the packing and it was very simple. Got the right tool with a hook end on it (can't think of the correct name) and pulled the old packing out. Ordered new packing on eBay and kept the old packing for measuring purposes. Once the new packing arrived I measured and stuffed it back in carefully and it doesn't leak a drop.
It is supposed to leak a little. That's how it cools the packing. should be like a drop every few seconds.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:51 AM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Authoritative article:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
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  #6  
Old 06-24-2015, 08:15 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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The tools I've found useful for this job are a long drywall screw and a set of mechanic picks from Sears. I start by running the drywall screw into the old packing. This will loosen it up and you can sometimes pull out the packing with this process alone. If not the set of pick will allow you to get the rest out.

As for packing.... I use the high end stuff from Discount Inboard Marine. The new stuff is near dripless if you install it correctly. To measure it wrap it around the prop shaft until it overlaps about an inch. Use a new razor blade to make a diagonal cut (I make the cut at a 45 degree angle) where the packing meets on the prop shaft. I make three sections and install them as I make them alternating the sections so that the parting lines don't match with each installed section. After that I tighten the nut to about 25 foot pounds to set the packing then back the nut off until it just snug. When I have everything cleaned up it's time for water testing and adjusting.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:20 AM
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Bouyhead Bouyhead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
The tools I've found useful for this job are a long drywall screw and a set of mechanic picks from Sears. I start by running the drywall screw into the old packing. This will loosen it up and you can sometimes pull out the packing with this process alone. If not the set of pick will allow you to get the rest out.

As for packing.... I use the high end stuff from Discount Inboard Marine. The new stuff is near dripless if you install it correctly. To measure it wrap it around the prop shaft until it overlaps about an inch. Use a new razor blade to make a diagonal cut (I make the cut at a 45 degree angle) where the packing meets on the prop shaft. I make three sections and install them as I make them alternating the sections so that the parting lines don't match with each installed section. After that I tighten the nut to about 25 foot pounds to set the packing then back the nut off until it just snug. When I have everything cleaned up it's time for water testing and adjusting.
^^^^This^^^^ Spot on, I like the trick with the drywall screw, gonna try that next time around.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:32 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Originally Posted by Bouyhead View Post
^^^^This^^^^ Spot on, I like the trick with the drywall screw, gonna try that next time around.
A cork screw works as well.
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