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  #141  
Old 09-04-2018, 08:15 PM
D2Dominator D2Dominator is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 2002 X-Star, Indmar
Location: Boston
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by petemay121 View Post
Mine all fitted perfectly. Some that were a bit tight I just got a stanley knife and cut the black stuff as my "wood effect" stuff didn't exactly line up with the thicker black stuff, the black stuff cuts super easy. I lobe having all Faria gauges now that work all the time!


Thatís my fear... I donít want to cut the foam away as the trim panel is sandwiched in between the foam and the gauges.


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2002 X-Star Indmar 5.7 Vortec Predator

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  #142  
Old 09-05-2018, 07:03 PM
petemay121 petemay121 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Boat: Mastercraft, ProStar 190, 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 46
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It cuts so easy! Was a 2 min job to trim and slot the new gauges in.
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2001 ProStar 190 330hp LTR
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  #143  
Old 09-18-2018, 11:09 PM
ztarum ztarum is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Boat: 2002 Prostar 197 6.0L
Location: Northeast
Posts: 9
So I just went through this with a 2002 Prostar 197 that I recently acquired. On my boat only the oil pressure gauge moved at all (but wasn't accurate), and the hour meter worked. Everything else was dead. The MMDC checked out voltage wise, and is likely fine (paddle wheel speedo, so common MDC failure point is eliminated), but I didn't want to buy a bunch of OEM gauges to test further so I went the Faria route.

In my case, a new coolant temperature sender was required (no analog signal to the MMDC to repurpose). I have the LQ9 engine, so I had trouble finding a temperature sensor that would work. Initially I tried a 3 wire sensor that lot or people use when they do LS engine swaps into older cars. This sensor has two wired for the engine computer (like my engine currently has), and one extra to signal an analog gauge. Unfortunately it turned out that the available sensor (fits a 1998 Camaro 5.7 by the way), does not match the scale of the Faria gauge.

This having failed, I decided to add an additional sender to the opposite head to supply the new gauge only. I purchased an adapter that was 1/8" NPT female to M12x1.5 male so I could use a standard sender in the LS head. This didn't work. The senders I could buy would not pass through the adapter without opening up the bore. If I had done that the brass adapter wall would have only been 0.030" thick and likely would have sheared off on install.

In the end I bought a larger Faria 3/8" NPT sender. Machined the threaded area down on my lathe and cut new M12x1.5 threads into the body. I was then able to directly mount the new sender into the head and this worked fine. If anyone wants to do similar, a machine shop should be able to do this for you fairly cheaply. Just bring the existing sender and the new ones so they can copy the design of the threads and sealing area. You will need to buy an appropriate copper crush washer as well. Note that the probe end of the sender is extremely thin metal. Do not attempt to grip it in the lathe chuck. Grip it by the hex end only or use a collet to avoid crushing the sender.

I also found that my fuel level sender was the wrong resistance scale as others have already reported. I ordered a new one from Centroid, but it hasn't arrived yet. I was impatient and order one from amazon in the 6" length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works fine. I cut the plug off the old Centroid sender and hooked two of the wired up to the new one (the third isn't used), so I preserve the original wiring harness. When the Centroid sender gets here I'll test it was well.

I think that cover most of the issues. A few other items to note. On this model the power to the MMDC is not switched with ignition, so I could not use that wire per the instructions. Instead I used the wire labeled SPDO from the harness. I also picked up the tach signal (gray wire) from the same point. Otherwise I did the same as the OP and repurposed most of the gauge harness, cutting off the old plugs and capping the unused yellow wires.

Oh, I went with the GPS speedos, and removed the older paddlewheel to install a Faria depth finder transducer. This is NOT recommended. The old housing for the Airmar speedo was extremely difficult to removed, and once out, the Faria transducer is a bit small for the hole. If I were to do it again, I would talk to Airmar and see if they had a transducer that would mount directly into the existing retractable speedo housing. That would have been so much easier. Unfortunately I had already broken the housing trying to remove it before I came to my senses, so there was no turning back.

That's it. I hope it's helpful for anyone trying to convert a 2002.

Thanks to the OP and other contributors for posting all the prior info. I couldn't have done it otherwise.

-Z

Last edited by ztarum; 09-18-2018 at 11:20 PM.
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