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Old 04-15-2006, 01:21 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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2006 rudder install...

It wasn't too bad. Kind of a pain for one person due to a lot of getting into and out of the boat, but the install itself was easy and very straightforward.

I elected to NOT switch to the new tiller arm. They are basically the same, and the lever arm is the same between the two, so there should be no handling difference from the old to the new tiller. Plus, I note that the older tiller has an extra hole about 1/2 inch closer, which would increase steering response (at the expense of steering effort) if I ever chose to use that inner hole.





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Old 04-15-2006, 01:24 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Old 04-15-2006, 01:26 AM
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erkoehler erkoehler is offline
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Looks good, what was the total time of the install?
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Old 04-15-2006, 01:37 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkoehler
Looks good, what was the total time of the install?
Two hours. With another person, I'll bet I could do the next one in less than an hour.
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Old 04-15-2006, 01:50 AM
crdickey crdickey is offline
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Did the same thing on my 2003 PS-197 and really like the difference. I use the inner hole and response is quicker and lessens the amount of rotation for equal turning radius. Great for the slalom course! I had to change the rudder housing, the '06 shaft was a few thousands larger than the '03. Also, filed the trailing edge to load the rudder and it tracks like it's on rails!

Bought my set up from Mike at MasterCraft of Charlotte, great guy, very knowledgeable.
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Old 04-15-2006, 02:55 AM
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prostar205 prostar205 is offline
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Bigmac -

Do you actually have to remove the prop to do this? I am waiting for a non-rainy day in Seattle to do this update. I'll probably be waiting until June the way it is raining here.

Great job posting the pictures. They will really help out.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:31 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostar205
Bigmac -

Do you actually have to remove the prop to do this? I am waiting for a non-rainy day in Seattle to do this update. I'll probably be waiting until June the way it is raining here.

Great job posting the pictures. They will really help out.
No, I just happened to have the prop off already. There would be plenty of clearance with the prop on.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:36 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crdickey
Did the same thing on my 2003 PS-197 and really like the difference. I use the inner hole and response is quicker and lessens the amount of rotation for equal turning radius. Great for the slalom course!
I was really tempted to switch to the inner hole on the tiller, but I thought I'd try it this way first. If I moved the cable position, I'm not sure how that quicker steering would affect a big boat like the 230VRS. Probably not that big a deal, but making that switch would be pretty easy later on, even while it's on the boat lift.
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Last edited by bigmac; 04-15-2006 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:58 AM
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vegashomeexpert vegashomeexpert is offline
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Outstanding job with the report! Let us know what you think of the difference. Also, let me know if the steering wheel turns completely uniformly or if there are any tight spots. If I am all the what to the left, it takes a little more effort to start back to the right than it does anyplace. I want to see if I need to tinker more or if this is normal. Have fun and enjoy!
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:12 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegashomeexpert
Outstanding job with the report! Let us know what you think of the difference. Also, let me know if the steering wheel turns completely uniformly or if there are any tight spots. If I am all the what to the left, it takes a little more effort to start back to the right than it does anyplace. I want to see if I need to tinker more or if this is normal. Have fun and enjoy!
I perceive that one pitfall might be how much clearance you establish between the rudder and bottom of the rudder port, and the top of the rudder port/nylon washer and the pinch bolt on the tiller. If you crank up the rudder real tight against the bottom of the port with the jack, then tap the tiller down tight against the top of the port before tightening the pinch bolt, you could get some binding. I left a few thousandths gap there - so negligible up and down play of the rudder, but just enough to prevent binding. I greased the rudder shaft pretty well with marine grease too. On the trailer, my wheel turns smoothly without any evidence of binding. I don't know how it will act on the water under way, but if it binds, I'd suspect it was due to hydrodynamics of the rudder rather than binding in the rudder port. It's a new rudder and the port has only had about 50 hours of use, so I doubt that binding under way would be due to slop in the port.

If your wheel binds one way vs the other, you might have a lack of grease on the cable end. When I had my wheel cranked all the way to the left, I wiped that cable shaft, which was now fully extended, down thoroughly with grease.
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Last edited by bigmac; 04-15-2006 at 11:15 AM.
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