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  #11  
Old 11-24-2004, 03:39 PM
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PeteS PeteS is offline
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Boat: 1988 Prostar 190 - 351 Indmar (1:1) / 365 Hours
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Thanks for the heads up, Thrall. I PM'ed him and am still waiting to hear back. He's about 10 miles from me as well, which is surprising. Thanks again.
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1988 Prostar 190 - 351 Indmar (1:1) / PerfectPass Digital Pro 6.5n, 13 x 12 Acme 3-Blade

Last edited by PeteS; 11-24-2004 at 03:47 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-24-2004, 08:01 PM
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André André is offline
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Boat: Prostar 190 1994
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Pete
PM East Texas Skier as well and ask him where he bought his carb and how much.I remember something around 300 $ ±.
Sorry if i mislead you...
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  #13  
Old 11-24-2004, 09:41 PM
Lance Lance is offline
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Boat: 1987 Prostar 190 PowerSlot, 2004 22' Bennington Pontoon 90 HP Mercury 4-stroke
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Interesting that your secondaries are sticking. That was actually one of the reasons I rebuilt mine. The guy that owned my 87Prostar before me had disconnected the secondaries (slipped the little actuator off the butterfly) because he had a tough time keeping a steady speed at slalom speeds because that is right in the range where the secondaries are openning. I left it that way for awhile but when I hooked it back up there was enough gunk in there that the vacuum actuator couldn't overcome the resistance. Probably better fuel economy when the secondaries don't open but also not as good of a hole shot. I grew up skiing behind small outboards so I could get buy without the acceleration.

I had other problems as well that were largely due to not using the boat for a couple of years. Rebuilding resolved all of the problems (the biggest problem was actually that the nozzle for the accelerator pump outlet where clogged which in hindsight would not have required a rebuild).

Good luck on whichever route you chose and I hope you solve the surging problem. I don't have perfect pass but my guess is that if you are having problems with sticking secondaries the perfect pass wouldn't be able to compensate quickly enough but I could be wrong.

Lance
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  #14  
Old 11-25-2004, 01:29 PM
jimmer2880 jimmer2880 is offline
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I've heard that in a Slalom boat, mechanical secondaries are much more reliable & "ski'able"....


just something else to think about.
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  #15  
Old 12-03-2004, 12:40 PM
sic0048 sic0048 is offline
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PeteS - you might just deconnect the secondaries and see how it does. It will loose some top end, but will probably make for a much more consistant 32-34 mph range. Even with Perfect Pass, you occationally need to do this. It really just depends on the boat where the secondaries really kick in.
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  #16  
Old 12-03-2004, 12:43 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
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PeteS, you've got mail. $319 plus $10 for a new fuel line (I went from dual to single feed) last May or so. It was brand new, but on special. www.skidim.com. Getting more speed at fewer RPMs.
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Last edited by east tx skier; 12-03-2004 at 12:46 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2004, 01:52 PM
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PeteS PeteS is offline
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Boat: 1988 Prostar 190 - 351 Indmar (1:1) / 365 Hours
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Brian,

Thanks for the info, sounds like disconnecting the secondaries may be a good way to go. I'm going to be putting in Perfect Pass this winter, and if PP like's it better with them disconnected than I'll do it for sure. How do you go about doing it?

Thanks,
Pete
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  #18  
Old 12-03-2004, 01:55 PM
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PeteS PeteS is offline
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Boat: 1988 Prostar 190 - 351 Indmar (1:1) / 365 Hours
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You got an amazing deal, Tex! Now they want $499.00 for a new one, and $352.00 for a rebuilt carb. Congrats on the new carb, glad to hear you like it. I don't know what I'm going to do.

Here are the options: disconnect the secondaries on my current carb for slalom, buy a used 4160 for $200.00 that will most likely make my boat run a little rich, or get a rebuild done on my current carb for $200.00. Will the rebuild solve my problem with the secondaries, if there even is a problem?

Thanks,
Pete
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  #19  
Old 12-03-2004, 02:28 PM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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Why would a used 4160 make your boat run rich? That should be the carb that is on it now. I would buy the nearly new /used 4160 slap it on and all of you problems should be solved. If you don't like that option have it rebuilt. No need to pay $500 for a new one. Just my $.02

As for your problem. I have the exact same boat that you do. I have the stock 4160 and have zero problems with holding speed at any mph. I ski the course at 36 all of my ski partners ski at 34 my wife skis at 28 and early in the season I was starting my passes at 32. Never a problem with the secondaries doing strange things. In fact my ski partners don't mind driving my boat (even without perfect pass) because it holds speed so well. When I am skiing they just lock the rpms in at a needle over 3400 before the pre-gates take their hand of the throttle and the boat holds speed great. The speed comes down a bit with a hard pull but catches right back up. Same when I am driving them but just a needle over 3200 for 34.

Guess what I am saying is you shouldn't have to disconnect anything to get a steady pull with the boat but you definately need a rebuild.
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  #20  
Old 12-03-2004, 02:36 PM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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Pete,

Just noticed that you are rinning an Acme 13x12. That may be why the secondaries are giving you a bit of a fit. Having to spin more rpm for the same speed could be putting you more on the edge with the secondaries opening and closing.

By the way how do you like the prop on the the boat? I was contemplating going to the 13x12.5 Acme and still might but Perfect Pass comes first. The guy at Acme had reccomended either the 13x12 or 13x12.5 to me. I just thought the 13x12 just might spin a little too fast. I do a little footing and don't want to loose off of the top end. Now seeing that your prop could possibly (and I am just guessing here) be causing a few issues with the secondaries at slalom speed I think if I do make the change from my stock 13x13 I will go with the 12.5. Would be interested in any and all observations about the prop.
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