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  #11  
Old 03-07-2018, 10:49 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Lot of Smoke

It is amazing what a person can get themselves into with s used boat. My 1977 had an automotive carb and starter, a bad exhaust manifold that was letting water get into the oil pan, two crossed plug wires, and countless electrical problems. I learned to work my way through the problems from the great folks on this forum. Now I make part of my living rebuilding carburetors for them.

You will get through this. Be sure not to take your boat out on the water with the fuel system as it is, as this could be very dangerous. A fuel leak into the bulge could turn your boat into a bomb.


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  #12  
Old 03-08-2018, 09:39 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Rjones14 View Post
I agree completely. By no means did I do my homework before purchasing this “water ready” boat. He had t running when I got there. It was clean, sounded fine, gauges were reading where they should. So I bought it. Immediately realized blower was incorrect and set up backwards. Fixed it. Replaced fuel pump hoping that was the fuel issue, didn’t help. There was a lot of trial and error before I got fed up and put it up for the winter.

It idled today for 20-30min on the trailer with hose hooked to it. I feel like it would have idled as long as I wanted it to. Temp stayed perfect, oil pressure was good. I never could get the throttle to respond correctly. It would bog as if it was starving for fuel. I’ll check in the morning for signs of melting on the flanges or flappers.
If you had the hose connected directly to the raw water pump and the engine ran at idle, I doubt you did any damage. The previous owner, well.......

If the boat sat or if the tank has any water in it, which is very possible, a carb rebuild might cure the running issues- water in the bowl will kill a metal float (if it has that) or anything that can corrode. Needle valves and orifices are cheap.

Might not be a bad time to do some additional investigating- check the condition of the distributor/cap/rotor/plugs/wires, check timing, compression/vacuum and establish some kind of a baseline.

It's good to assume that work will need to be done when buying an older boat, car or anything else that's mechanical. It can also be a good bargaining chip.

I use a small mustard bottle with adjustable nozzle to check for the cause of bogging or stalling- open it a bit, hit the throttle and when it bogs, squirt a little gas in- if it runs better, it's lean and if it kills, it was rich. Adjust accordingly. Incorrect timing is another possibility- does it crank easily, or is it kind of lumpy? If it starts to crank and hesitates when the compression increases, it may be advanced too far.
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2018, 10:05 AM
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Maristar210 Maristar210 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
If you had the hose connected directly to the raw water pump and the engine ran at idle, I doubt you did any damage. The previous owner, well.......

If the boat sat or if the tank has any water in it, which is very possible, a carb rebuild might cure the running issues- water in the bowl will kill a metal float (if it has that) or anything that can corrode. Needle valves and orifices are cheap.

Might not be a bad time to do some additional investigating- check the condition of the distributor/cap/rotor/plugs/wires, check timing, compression/vacuum and establish some kind of a baseline.

It's good to assume that work will need to be done when buying an older boat, car or anything else that's mechanical. It can also be a good bargaining chip.

I use a small mustard bottle with adjustable nozzle to check for the cause of bogging or stalling- open it a bit, hit the throttle and when it bogs, squirt a little gas in- if it runs better, it's lean and if it kills, it was rich. Adjust accordingly. Incorrect timing is another possibility- does it crank easily, or is it kind of lumpy? If it starts to crank and hesitates when the compression increases, it may be advanced too far.
Mustard bottle, Ingenious!!
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2018, 10:53 AM
Rjones14 Rjones14 is offline
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Boat: 1985 S&S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
If you had the hose connected directly to the raw water pump and the engine ran at idle, I doubt you did any damage. The previous owner, well.......

If the boat sat or if the tank has any water in it, which is very possible, a carb rebuild might cure the running issues- water in the bowl will kill a metal float (if it has that) or anything that can corrode. Needle valves and orifices are cheap.

Might not be a bad time to do some additional investigating- check the condition of the distributor/cap/rotor/plugs/wires, check timing, compression/vacuum and establish some kind of a baseline.

It's good to assume that work will need to be done when buying an older boat, car or anything else that's mechanical. It can also be a good bargaining chip.

I use a small mustard bottle with adjustable nozzle to check for the cause of bogging or stalling- open it a bit, hit the throttle and when it bogs, squirt a little gas in- if it runs better, it's lean and if it kills, it was rich. Adjust accordingly. Incorrect timing is another possibility- does it crank easily, or is it kind of lumpy? If it starts to crank and hesitates when the compression increases, it may be advanced too far.
Last summer, If you could get fuel to the carb without running the battery down, would idle fine but would start skipping when given more throttle. Had the carb rebuilt, ran great for an hour, started to skip and would only stay running if you manually pumped fuel to the carb. That day I trailered it back to my shop and put it up for the winter. Yesterday, 6 months later I got it out, unhooked he fuel line and ran it to a tank with fresh gas. Cranked after the first few tries and idled great. Give it throttle, runs trashy and tries to cut off. Entire time it idles it is smoking like crazy from the exhaust. I have a video of the smoke, but cannot figure out how to post it.
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2018, 10:55 AM
Rjones14 Rjones14 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
It is amazing what a person can get themselves into with s used boat. My 1977 had an automotive carb and starter, a bad exhaust manifold that was letting water get into the oil pan, two crossed plug wires, and countless electrical problems. I learned to work my way through the problems from the great folks on this forum. Now I make part of my living rebuilding carburetors for them.

You will get through this. Be sure not to take your boat out on the water with the fuel system as it is, as this could be very dangerous. A fuel leak into the bulge could turn your boat into a bomb.


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The only way Id take it to the water in its current state, is without a plug.
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2018, 11:14 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Maristar210 View Post
Mustard bottle, Ingenious!!
I learned about that at training. I wouldn't recommend using starting fluid for this. For that matter, it's not a good idea to use it unless the engine is very low compression and can handle the immense expansion when it burns.
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2018, 11:23 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Rjones14 View Post
Last summer, If you could get fuel to the carb without running the battery down, would idle fine but would start skipping when given more throttle. Had the carb rebuilt, ran great for an hour, started to skip and would only stay running if you manually pumped fuel to the carb. That day I trailered it back to my shop and put it up for the winter. Yesterday, 6 months later I got it out, unhooked he fuel line and ran it to a tank with fresh gas. Cranked after the first few tries and idled great. Give it throttle, runs trashy and tries to cut off. Entire time it idles it is smoking like crazy from the exhaust. I have a video of the smoke, but cannot figure out how to post it.
What smell do you notice from the smoke? How much water comes out of the exhaust? I saw that it's gray smoke- if it smells strongly of rubber, you're not getting much water to the exhaust and it could be raw water pump or circulating pump. Make sure the impeller is in correctly- if the vanes are backward, the housing will be very hot and the pump won't do much, other than cook the engine and exhaust hoses. Also, remove the thermostat housing and make sure there's no pieces of rubber blocking the little hole. If you have a lot of pieces, it means the previous owner should be contacted and some kind of settlement should be reached because it wasn't maintained very well. The primer bulb is another example of that.


If the smoke doesn't have much odor and is lighter gray, it's possibly from water getting into a cylinder- check the spark plugs and if one is really clean, look at the piston- if that's equally clean, you have a leak. Fortunately, it's an easy engine to work on and parts are easy to find.
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  #18  
Old 03-08-2018, 01:21 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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Upload the video to youtube.com and post a link to it.
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  #19  
Old 03-08-2018, 01:38 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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I know you are getting advice from a number of directions. I would approach this as follows:

1. Get a new impeller and install it.

2. Go through the ignition system. Check condition of the spark plugs (check gap or replace), distributor cap & rotor, and confirm that the spark plug wires are all connected in the proper order. The firing order is embossed into the runner on the intake manifold. Follow each wire from the cap to the spark plug.

3. Clean all battery cables with a wire brush and secure. Include the connections at the solenoid and especially the block ground. Do not shortcut this process.

4. Check the voltage at the coil positive connection. It should be battery voltage with the key on/engine off(roughly 12.5 volts). It should also be battery voltage while running (roughly 13.5 volts). If you are getting less than battery voltage, follow wiring back and check all connections for corrosion. This will take you through the main wiring harness, ignition switch, and then to the fuse block.

5. If this all checks out, it's time to start it up again. The first thing to pay attention to is water flow and making sure you are not overheating. You should be able to place your hand on the exhaust manifold and feel that it is warm, but not so hot you can't leave your hand there for a minute. Put your hand on the back of the raw water pump. It should feel as cool as the incoming water from your hose.

6. If everything is OK at this time, you need to check your ignition timing with a timing light. Set it at 8 degrees BTDC for now. You may advance to 10 degrees later.

Obviously ignore any of the steps that you have already done. It is best to follow this order so you don't end up chasing your tail later. I've been down that road too many times in my younger days.

This should keep you busy for a while.
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$125 LED TRAILER LIGHT PACKAGE - FREE SHIPPING
REBUILDING HOLLEY MARINE CARBS - $289 DELIVERED
REBUILT COMPLETE MARINE HOLLEY 4160 CARBS $495 DELIVERED
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2018, 04:03 PM
Rjones14 Rjones14 is offline
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