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Old 09-24-2017, 08:42 PM
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Olaff Olaff is offline
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Filter removal on V-drive - HELP!

OK, so before I break something and make an easy job hard and expensive;
When I am loosening the V-Drive Filter cap with the 6mm Allen wrench in the anti-clockwise rotation, does it only turn about 90-degrees and the cap-head screw that my Allen wrench is in is a solid piece with the filter cover? There is a tab cast in to the cover that has "ATF" embossed on it that is turning with the caphead screw and prevents more than a 90-unscrew because it interferes with the transmission housing. Should the cap-head be turning independently of the filter cap and have several revolutions to loosen, then I lift the cap off? Or does the cap tighten in similar to the fuel cap on a car where it falls in to a spot then turns about 90-degrees to tighten down?
It seems like it's the 90-degree thing and I'm trying to figure out where to get the leverage to lift the cap out of the recess it sits in.
Boat has 200 hours, I think this may be the first time this service has ever been done.
2001 Prostar 205V with 310hp and Hurth HSW630V1.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:14 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
OK, so before I break something and make an easy job hard and expensive;
When I am loosening the V-Drive Filter cap with the 6mm Allen wrench in the anti-clockwise rotation, does it only turn about 90-degrees and the cap-head screw that my Allen wrench is in is a solid piece with the filter cover? There is a tab cast in to the cover that has "ATF" embossed on it that is turning with the caphead screw and prevents more than a 90-unscrew because it interferes with the transmission housing. Should the cap-head be turning independently of the filter cap and have several revolutions to loosen, then I lift the cap off? Or does the cap tighten in similar to the fuel cap on a car where it falls in to a spot then turns about 90-degrees to tighten down?
It seems like it's the 90-degree thing and I'm trying to figure out where to get the leverage to lift the cap out of the recess it sits in.
Boat has 200 hours, I think this may be the first time this service has ever been done.
2001 Prostar 205V with 310hp and Hurth HSW630V1.
http://boatmanual.net/data/hurt/Hurth_HSW_630_A_-_Operating_Manual.pdf
PDF page 23

It's all I got....

Maybe a close indication...

.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:23 PM
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Olaff Olaff is offline
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Well this is it. Basically the same thing it says in my Hurth Owners' Manual. Neither says how far to unscrew counter-clockwise, and mine has the caphead screw, not a handy "t" handle to lift on while I'm unscrewing. So, I'm going to go with the 90-degree and see if I can get a blade under the rim to pry it out.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:28 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
Well this is it. Basically the same thing it says in my Hurth Owners' Manual. Neither says how far to unscrew counter-clockwise, and mine has the caphead screw, not a handy "t" handle to lift on while I'm unscrewing. So, I'm going to go with the 90-degree and see if I can get a blade under the rim to pry it out.
The manuals I have browsed are old manuals, thus I suspect the t-handle VS screw head, but all I have seen are threaded and screw out.

You're on the right track to error on the side of caution.

As you posted; from page 23:

.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:49 PM
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Olaff Olaff is offline
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OK, if anyone runs across this in the future, there is what amounts to a compression fit o-ring that gets squeezed between the filter and the filter cap. The cap-screw, or "t" handle as pictured above, allow you to tighten the cap to the filter and squeeze the o-ring in between which retains the filter in place and creates the seal. Not much different than a rubber compression drain plug in the transom of some boats.
So to answer the question, if the cap and tab rotate when you are turning the bolt or t-handle counterclockwise, then the filter and o-ring are rotating with it as an assembly. When the tab gets around to where it hits the tranny housing, it holds the cover from rotating anymore so you can exert enough torque to start releasing the compression fit. Once it's relatively loose, you can just lift the cover with the o-ring sandwiched between the cover and filter. The filter is attached by the bolt through the cover. The bolt or t-handle, cover, o-ring, and filter are an assembly that all come out of the filter's home together if you don't loosen the bolt to where it comes un-threaded from the filter.
I had to apply quite a bit of torque to it initially to get it loose because it had never been changed from the factory and it had the original coat of paint holding it secure. I had to break the seal on the paint holding the bolt in place..
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:57 PM
curver900 curver900 is online now
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to bad we could have saved you time and aggravation.. no need to open that up unless the transmission goes south... the filter is just a piece of SS.. even the dealer told me when I brought it in just put it back in and never take it out again... the filter is like 60 bucks or so...if i recall from 2 years ago...
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:20 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Olaff,

I was stuck in the water because of the compression was so tight I had to trailer it while pushing down on the cap because I couldn't get it back on. When I got back home, I put a socket-hex in my impact driver. Put that tab on a piece of wood and finally it broke free.

It is recommended that you clean this out when you change your fluid. Just use brake parts cleaner and compressed air. Mine was a bit more dirty than I expected. I would expect this never needs replaced so long as you clean it with every change.
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:28 PM
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Olaff Olaff is offline
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I got the new replacement filter at my friendly neighborhood MasterCraft dealer, Dockside Marine, for $17.00. I will probably open it up on future fluid changes because there was a bit of black residue in the filter housing. While I'm in there, $17 is worth it for piece of mind, and the filter comes with new o-rings to seal everything up nicely.
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
I got the new replacement filter at my friendly neighborhood MasterCraft dealer, Dockside Marine, for $17.00. I will probably open it up on future fluid changes because there was a bit of black residue in the filter housing. While I'm in there, $17 is worth it for piece of mind, and the filter comes with new o-rings to seal everything up nicely.
The best place to drain your transmission fluid is the metal tube below the filter. You can stick a flexible rubber tube in it and it will go all the way to the bottom. Much easier than using the dipstick hole. Here is a pic of the hurth transmission you can see the solid tube goes all the way to the very bottom.
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Old 09-28-2017, 04:05 AM
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Olaff Olaff is offline
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Yep, that's what I did. I only got about 2 1/2 or 3 qts out through the dipstick tube, then got another quart and a half through the filter tube.
What's all the Pepto Bismol looking stuff in the first pic.
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