Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Electrical

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-29-2018, 06:40 PM
epnault's Avatar
epnault epnault is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2016 ProStar 6.2L
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 1,666
No Power on Boat

Hi Guys,
Sorry to bother you with this but my new neighbor (moved onto the lake a couple of weeks ago) called me today and said he replaced his battery (after I boosted it the weekend before) and now he has no power on the boat. This guy has very little mechanical/electrical ability so I will start with the simple things like having the battery connected, 12v, fuses, and a good ground etc. The problem is it is a 94 Malibu Echelon and I don't know anything about this brand/boat but I don't think fundamentally they are much different. Anything else you guys could think of to put on my list?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-29-2018, 08:32 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
Posts: 12,362
Not much to go on....

Reset the 50 amp engine breaker?

Lots of things can be the issue.
__________________
John 14:6
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-29-2018, 08:35 PM
epnault's Avatar
epnault epnault is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2016 ProStar 6.2L
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 1,666
Yeah. I know. I can’t get to the lake until Friday to take a look. Thought it might be worth a little web-storming. Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-29-2018, 10:43 PM
JohnnyB's Avatar
JohnnyB JohnnyB is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Boat: 2004 Prostar 190
Location: Titletown
Posts: 3,857
Hooked up battery reverse poll / backward?

Sent from my SM-G920R6 using Tapatalk
__________________
Everyone Dies, but not everyone lives

2004 Prostar 197, ACME 843
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-29-2018, 10:50 PM
epnault's Avatar
epnault epnault is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2016 ProStar 6.2L
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 1,666
I suppose thet could be a possibility. On these older boats what could happen if he did this?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-30-2018, 02:30 PM
JohnnyB's Avatar
JohnnyB JohnnyB is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Boat: 2004 Prostar 190
Location: Titletown
Posts: 3,857
Quote:
Originally Posted by epnault View Post
I suppose thet could be a possibility. On these older boats what could happen if he did this?
I would think either they have a breaker or you are gonna pop fuses...

Sent from my SM-G920R6 using Tapatalk
__________________
Everyone Dies, but not everyone lives

2004 Prostar 197, ACME 843
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-30-2018, 03:05 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Boat: 1988 MC Prostar 190, 351 Ford
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4,413
Send a message via AIM to 88 PS190
Quote:
Originally Posted by epnault View Post
I suppose thet could be a possibility. On these older boats what could happen if he did this?
My experience is usually not much, most DC electronics aren't that polarized, a switch doesn't care which side is hot/cold. nor does a light bulb.

Relays do, solid state electronics do.

Its harder to do on most boats due to the length of the wires and the position of the terminals, but some boats you can.

When you have a dead boat you need to go out prepared with a known good battery, and a voltmeter, also helpful to make up a few jumper wires with alligator clips.

Obviously push the breaker button. I like to turn on the blower so I can hear if I fix something.

First test, hook up battery - test voltage between terminals - should give you a value 12.4-13 or so. If bad replace battery
Second Test - voltage between where the positive cable attaches to the starter and the ground point on the block (should match battery - if lower inspect wires/terminals wiggle things. -If bad repair or replace.
Third test - test across the breaker on continuity, or test voltage to a ground point on both sides of the breaker, if no voltage on the output side push in the button and see if it resets (sometimes breaker will die). Voltage past breaker?

If you have voltage past breaker we get into the world of trouble shooting the main wiring harness from the engine to the dash. In most boats this looks like a single ground and a single hot lead that go up to the dash, that ground supplies the gauges, the switches etc. The hot lead goes to the ignition switch and usually the switches for the blower/bilge/lights and usually a switched ignition lead goes back to the distributor/ignition system as well as a lead to the starter, sometimes to the gauges.

So if you have power to the block then you have to start exploring the power at the ignition switch and tracing that back if you identify an issue.

Sometimes you can lose the common ground or similar problems.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-30-2018, 03:35 PM
Maristar210's Avatar
Maristar210 Maristar210 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: paddle
Location: Midwest
Posts: 10,670
Don't forget to check the lanyard (if there is one?)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-30-2018, 04:18 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Boat: 1988 MC Prostar 190, 351 Ford
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4,413
Send a message via AIM to 88 PS190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maristar210 View Post
Don't forget to check the lanyard (if there is one?)
So you'll see this recommendation alot on forums - its not going to cause a "dead boat" the reason being no one wants the kill switch to shut down critical functions on the boat such as the bilge pump, blowers, nav lights etc. It just needs to stop the engine running.

So there are two ways to deal with this, both usually involve the wiring from the ignition switch. The one utilized on say a ski boat is called a normally closed safety switch, these typically have purple wires - which if you've ever worked on your ignition system you'll remember there is a purple wire to the coil, ballast resistor etc. This wire is energized by the ignition switch in both the "on" and "run" condition by the switch. But if the lanyard is pulled the switch opens up the power to the coil goes by by and the engine loses its spark. In these boats ALL of the electrics should work fine, and the boat will crank just fine - because of course... It has power. In some boats there is even a separate wire from the ignition switch to the coil for "start" vs "run" and they will actually crank and start so long as you have the key in the start position - they will stall right away when the switch goes to run.

The other method is called a normally open safety switch, this is only common on outboards and is basically a switch that is held open by the lanyard, when it closes it shorts the spark plug or magneto to ground and kills the engine these will not start/run if the switch fails. But will still crank.

So ignore the switch if the boat doesn't crank..

Neutral switch if it won't crank but has power you can check.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-30-2018, 04:34 PM
epnault's Avatar
epnault epnault is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2016 ProStar 6.2L
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 1,666
Thanks for all the help you guys. Great thoughts and ideas!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:21 AM.


2018