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Old 09-01-2018, 10:25 PM
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CC2MC CC2MC is offline
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ECU fried?

Letís start with the fuel pump motor replacement which I did yesterday. It seemed to be cycling as it should so I took the boat back to the lake to try it out. I backed it down the ramp and got the boat started but it would not stay started. Then the starter would not turn the motor over and would just click. I was thinking starter or starter solenoid. I tapped the starter with a hammer and it turned over a couple times then popped and sizzled. Thatís never a good sound to hear. The main gauge is blinking ECU and I am getting no other power to the gauges or anything. The battery has been on a charger nd was fine. What could cause an ECU failure? Is there anything I can check? Also, aside from the dealer where can I find another ecu for my 2005 x-10?
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2018, 11:11 PM
hedojohn hedojohn is offline
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What engine do you have??


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  #3  
Old 09-01-2018, 11:16 PM
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310 hp indmar engine.
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Old 09-01-2018, 11:19 PM
hedojohn hedojohn is offline
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Mcx??


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Old 09-02-2018, 12:21 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Sounds like a dead starter... why did you hit it with a hammer? This isnt 1945
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Old 09-02-2018, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 88 PS190 View Post
Sounds like a dead starter... why did you hit it with a hammer? This isnt 1945
You have never heard that before? Sometimes when a starter gets hung up, you can tap it to get it unstuck. You don’t hit it, you just give it a light tap. If you take a starter apart, there is dust or little tiny shavings from the bendix engaging and if too much has built up, it can prevent it from engaging. If you lightly tap the starter case, it can loosen up some of that dust and get it turning. I can take the starter apart and clean it. That’s not my real issue, as my dash just blinks “ECU”.

Welcome to 2018. Gotta love Mellennials...

MCX is 350 hp. This is an RTP engine.

Last edited by CC2MC; 09-02-2018 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:33 AM
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Well, now I have another issue. I went to disconnect the battery and the negative cable and noticed the negative cable was a little loose. The power came back to the dash and proceeded to even turn the engine over on its own, with the ignition off. Does that indicate a bad ignition switch? Also, the battery cables were hot, which tells me that I have some draw coming from something. I removed the battery and charged it up but haven’t put it back in the boat. I will need to replace the battery cable connection and possibly the cable itself.
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by CC2MC View Post
Well, now I have another issue. I went to disconnect the battery and the negative cable and noticed the negative cable was a little loose. The power came back to the dash and proceeded to even turn the engine over on its own, with the ignition off. Does that indicate a bad ignition switch? Also, the battery cables were hot, which tells me that I have some draw coming from something. I removed the battery and charged it up but haven’t put it back in the boat. I will need to replace the battery cable connection and possibly the cable itself.
It's an indication that you didn't make sure the cables were tight and when bad connections exist, the current needed to perform a task increases because the voltage has dropped.

P=IE, so if E (Voltage) drops and P(ower) is to remain constant, I (Current) MUST increase. Current is what causes heat in conductors and devices, not voltage. Your battery is probably fine, you just need to be more diligent about making sure the cables are secure.

Why do you need to replace the cable? It didn't do anything wrong and it's probably fine. The fact that it was hot may not mean anything unless the heat caused the wire to become brittle and melted the insulation.

These starters draw around 150 Amperes- that's enough to use for welding and with a loose cable, you were trying to turn the starter with poor surface contact. Cross-sectional area is the reason large cables are needed for high current applications and that applies to the contact area of clamps & terminals.

BTW- new starters have ceramic magnets, which are very brittle. Hit the starter hard enough and the magnet will crack, leaving you with a useless starter. Plan to replace the starter sooner than you expected, too- the heat from the loose connection has probably damaged the contacts in the Bendix and at some point, it won't conduct well enough to crank the engine. Ever hear of a starter t hat wouldn't disengage? It's usually caused by cranking until the battery dies and welding the contacts together, but a loose connection works just as well.

It's possible that the ECM is OK, it just went into hard reset when the voltage dropped below its threshold wile you were cranking. When that happens, it won't do anything to get the engine to run and the dash panel won't get the signal from it that it needs to prevent the ECM light.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
It's an indication that you didn't make sure the cables were tight and when bad connections exist, the current needed to perform a task increases because the voltage has dropped.

P=IE, so if E (Voltage) drops and P(ower) is to remain constant, I (Current) MUST increase. Current is what causes heat in conductors and devices, not voltage. Your battery is probably fine, you just need to be more diligent about making sure the cables are secure.

Why do you need to replace the cable? It didn't do anything wrong and it's probably fine. The fact that it was hot may not mean anything unless the heat caused the wire to become brittle and melted the insulation.

These starters draw around 150 Amperes- that's enough to use for welding and with a loose cable, you were trying to turn the starter with poor surface contact. Cross-sectional area is the reason large cables are needed for high current applications and that applies to the contact area of clamps & terminals.

BTW- new starters have ceramic magnets, which are very brittle. Hit the starter hard enough and the magnet will crack, leaving you with a useless starter. Plan to replace the starter sooner than you expected, too- the heat from the loose connection has probably damaged the contacts in the Bendix and at some point, it won't conduct well enough to crank the engine. Ever hear of a starter t hat wouldn't disengage? It's usually caused by cranking until the battery dies and welding the contacts together, but a loose connection works just as well.

It's possible that the ECM is OK, it just went into hard reset when the voltage dropped below its threshold wile you were cranking. When that happens, it won't do anything to get the engine to run and the dash panel won't get the signal from it that it needs to prevent the ECM light.
Thanks Jim. The reason I suggested replacing the cable is bc the connector is cracked and cannot be tightened any further. I noticed this when I messed with my battery last week. It has not given me any issues that I know of due to the loose cable, so I had no real reason to check it. When I bought it a couple years ago, the battery had just been replaced by the PO. I did put my battery on the charger and it is fine. I will at least need to replace my battery cable connector and go from there.

I am aware that the new starters have ceramic magnets. Again, tapping the starter is different than hitting the starter. Welding itself is another story but it isnít welded bc it turned on its own when I was wiggling the negative cable off the terminal.

One thing I didnít mention is that when the engine did manage to start, it would not remain running and died a few times before the ECU light came on. Not sure if that has to do with the battery as I just replaced plugs a couple months ago.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2018, 07:34 PM
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I have now put a new terminator on the cable and it does crank the engine but I cannot get it to start. I also noticed that it sparked pretty good when I connected both cables to the battery. When I turn the key to the “On” position, the gauges take about 30-45 secs to cycle on. They normally cycle right after I turn the key. The radio only blinks now. The starter kept spinning one time and the. It just started to click again. I am thinking a new starter is likely needed but I still have the issues with the delay on the gauges and the radio blinking. The ECU message is not blinking but could that be the issue?
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