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Old 03-13-2018, 08:45 PM
Cody2662 Cody2662 is offline
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De-winterization

So this is my first true inboard. I grew up around outboards which my dad did little to nothing to winterize. And my last boat was just an I/O and I pretty much had a marina do all the work. I had my boat winterized in the fall but no oil change or anything (i know, bad). I finally got a full service done last week but they re-winterized it afterwards which I didn't really want them to. So what do I need to do to get i ready to finally take it out? It will be my first summer with it since I just bought it in October. It is a 1997 Prostar 205, 5.7 L by the way
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:05 PM
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JohnE JohnE is offline
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Depends on how they left it. Most dealers leave it ready to go. Connect the battery, and turn the key. They will have filled the block with antifreeze. Older school is to remove the plugs from the manifolds and block and leave it dry. If that is the case, you will need to reinstall the plugs, which are usually tied to the steering wheel. Shouldn't have to do much else. But since you paid them to do it, you should call them to check out exactly what you need to do.
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:17 PM
Cody2662 Cody2662 is offline
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Yeah, they just filled it with antifreeze. So Iím good to go when they time comes? I wonít need to flush the engine first?
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:40 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cody2662 View Post
Yeah, they just filled it with antifreeze. So I’m good to go when they time comes? I won’t need to flush the engine first?
Start it and go....as long as you are 100% certain what the other people did...

I.E. ...Did they remove the impeller and put it in the glove box, assuming they would stiff you again in the spring?

You can do next year's winterization easy and cheaper. Nothing to it.

No need to flush the engine.
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
Start it and go....as long as you are 100% certain what the other people did...

I.E. ...Did they remove the impeller and put it in the glove box, assuming they would stiff you again in the spring?

You can do next year's winterization easy and cheaper. Nothing to it.
Agreed, it takes longer to drive a boat to a dealer than it does to winterize.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:10 PM
Cody2662 Cody2662 is offline
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Well the prop is still on so Iím good there 👍🏼 Iíll call them tomorrow and see exactly what they did. Iíll probably do it myself this year. I just didnít trust myself too much with a boat I knew nothing about. Iíve done enough creeping on here that I think I can figure it out now though
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:58 AM
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Use this as a guide next year.....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...t=51183&page=7
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  #8  
Old 04-03-2018, 03:47 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is online now
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Biggest things that cause problems;
Flat batteries
Bad Impellers
Crap Gas
Loose hoses
Animal nests

I do a bit more at summarization just because we launch about 8 miles from our house and boat that, so if we don't check you end up in the middle of the lake before you have problems.

I summarize two prostars at once so there is good synergy to it;
Few gallons of fresh gas from can (I store empty)
Battery cable gets connected, charger goes on, engine hood up visual glance around for any animal activities or weird things, check belt tension, drain plugs, knock sensor, and hose clamps. Check oil top up if needed, check trans fluid.

Make sure I have water ready to go and fire the engine, I watch to make sure the water is being pumped and I feel the raw water pump cover to make sure it feels nice and cold (I don't usually remove these so I check the cover regularly throughout the year for signs that its not drawing well) then let them idle till they reach temp on the gauge, check all gauges are normal including voltage.

Grease applicable fittings, including trailer, air trailer tires and then we're ready to trailer, pop by gas station for a full tank of fuel and then off to the ramp.

I know the arguments between full/part tank, and I personally have not had issues with water condensation in an empty tank, but I have had boats running poorly and hard to start when having to burn off a whole tank of 6 month old fuel.
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 PS190 View Post
Biggest things that cause problems;
Flat batteries
Bad Impellers
Crap Gas
Loose hoses
Animal nests

I do a bit more at summarization just because we launch about 8 miles from our house and boat that, so if we don't check you end up in the middle of the lake before you have problems.

I summarize two prostars at once so there is good synergy to it;
Few gallons of fresh gas from can (I store empty)
Battery cable gets connected, charger goes on, engine hood up visual glance around for any animal activities or weird things, check belt tension, drain plugs, knock sensor, and hose clamps. Check oil top up if needed, check trans fluid.

Make sure I have water ready to go and fire the engine, I watch to make sure the water is being pumped and I feel the raw water pump cover to make sure it feels nice and cold (I don't usually remove these so I check the cover regularly throughout the year for signs that its not drawing well) then let them idle till they reach temp on the gauge, check all gauges are normal including voltage.

Grease applicable fittings, including trailer, air trailer tires and then we're ready to trailer, pop by gas station for a full tank of fuel and then off to the ramp.

I know the arguments between full/part tank, and I personally have not had issues with water condensation in an empty tank, but I have had boats running poorly and hard to start when having to burn off a whole tank of 6 month old fuel.
Lake? I thought you were putting in the Cal-Sag
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  #10  
Old 04-03-2018, 04:27 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is online now
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Man if only, also I moved to MI way better!
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