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  #21  
Old 09-02-2018, 06:14 PM
LDA6339 LDA6339 is offline
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Definitely post some pictures! I sounds like you learned the same lesson I did, big stereo needs big batteries. I had to replace the house battery that came from the factory after just two seasons because the 4Rev10's killed it. I added a 3rd as well in parallel to the house and a maintainer. My stereo is nowhere near as large as yours, but with one your size I'd have to ask the questions- is the stock alternator able to keep up?
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  #22  
Old 09-02-2018, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by LDA6339 View Post
Definitely post some pictures! I sounds like you learned the same lesson I did, big stereo needs big batteries. I had to replace the house battery that came from the factory after just two seasons because the 4Rev10's killed it. I added a 3rd as well in parallel to the house and a maintainer. My stereo is nowhere near as large as yours, but with one your size I'd have to ask the questions- is the stock alternator able to keep up?
I can answer that question- Nope!
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2018, 10:45 AM
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cal2vin cal2vin is offline
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I can answer that question- Nope!


No. And I think the vsr may have been doing its job and saving my alternator. Because it was not activating and linking the banks all the time. Iím thinking it maybe it was because the voltage drop from playing loudly either before starting or possibly after as well was dragging it around the lockout voltage? Iím not sure to be honest. I decided to get rid of the xp2000 batteries all together and replace them with 4 xp3000s and add an additional 3 xp3000. Totaling 840 aH. Iíve put so much effort into making this the best it can be that Iím also going to try get a high output alternator. Thatís going to take a lot of modifications to wiring and such. If anyone has experience adding a high output alternator to an ilmor 6.0 Iím all ears for advice.


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  #24  
Old 09-03-2018, 11:36 AM
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No. And I think the vsr may have been doing its job and saving my alternator. Because it was not activating and linking the banks all the time. Iím thinking it maybe it was because the voltage drop from playing loudly either before starting or possibly after as well was dragging it around the lockout voltage? Iím not sure to be honest. I decided to get rid of the xp2000 batteries all together and replace them with 4 xp3000s and add an additional 3 xp3000. Totaling 840 aH. Iíve put so much effort into making this the best it can be that Iím also going to try get a high output alternator. Thatís going to take a lot of modifications to wiring and such. If anyone has experience adding a high output alternator to an ilmor 6.0 Iím all ears for advice.


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Liok for a dual output alternator.

VSR- voltage sensitive relay? Might have helped while cranking, but it would close after it starts, so any help would be short-term, assuming the system would turn on immediately. If the batteries were fairly depleted, the alternator would be pretty stressed.

What is the capacity of the OEM alternator? Can you post a photo?
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  #25  
Old 09-03-2018, 11:41 AM
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cal2vin cal2vin is offline
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Look for bad battery or improve my bank?

Yea voltage sensitive relay. This one I believe. Itís the one that comes stock. I didnít modify any of that.

I believe the vsr will not engage if the bank is below 11.5. If it was sensing that voltage at any point maybe it was locking it out and not combining the House bank to charge off the alternator.


It can only handle 125 amps tho so if I go with something like a 200 amp Balmar Iíd either have to get a higher amperage version or go a different route for battery separation. I guess thatís the dual output purpose you spoke of?


And the stock alternator is 95 amp I think. Iíll have to look more into it though.


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  #26  
Old 09-03-2018, 12:49 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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With the size of your house bank and its future expansion, I would consider removing the VSR and dual circuit switch an go to a basic 1/2/BOTH switch. VSR's dont well with large, depleted house banks.
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  #27  
Old 09-03-2018, 01:20 PM
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cal2vin cal2vin is offline
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With the size of your house bank and its future expansion, I would consider removing the VSR and dual circuit switch an go to a basic 1/2/BOTH switch. VSR's dont well with large, depleted house banks.


Yea I feel like Iíd have to do some serious rewiring for that. I noticed Balmar has a ďduoĒ device that puts 30 amps to the starting battery and keeps the rest of the output to the house bank. That sounded good but I didnít look much into it.


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  #28  
Old 09-03-2018, 02:33 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Yea I feel like I’d have to do some serious rewiring for that.
Shouldnt. Everything you need should already be on the existing 4 post switch. You will consolidate it down to 3 posts.
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  #29  
Old 09-03-2018, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cal2vin View Post
Yea voltage sensitive relay. This one I believe. It’s the one that comes stock. I didn’t modify any of that.

I believe the vsr will not engage if the bank is below 11.5. If it was sensing that voltage at any point maybe it was locking it out and not combining the House bank to charge off the alternator.


It can only handle 125 amps tho so if I go with something like a 200 amp Balmar I’d either have to get a higher amperage version or go a different route for battery separation. I guess that’s the dual output purpose you spoke of?


And the stock alternator is 95 amp I think. I’ll have to look more into it though.


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Turn off ALL of your accessories and find a way to measure the current draw in your boat, then turn on everything EXCEPT the stereo and anything you added. You'll find that the alternator doesn't qualify as 'over-sized' for the boat. They would waste money if they did this, but they should offer a much higher capacity alternator for those who want to go nuts in the accessories department. Only then, can you even think about determining the practicality of using it if you add accessories. The audio system is like hitching a city bus to a VW Beetle and trying to tow it up a steep hill- heat kills everything electrical & mechanical and current is the method that produces the heat. You CAN'T connect an unlimited number of batteries to an alternator and expect it to function normally, nor handle the load.

Your system is good for about 2500 Watts if things go right, correct? If you use the power formula in Ohm's Law, your system will draw [email protected] at full 2500W, and that can only happen if the system is 100% efficient, so let's use 75% as our model. 200/.75=266.67A. That's a a problem for your alternator. That's IF you try to use the alternator alone to power the system and if your batteries are able to supply this much current, your cables, at 1/0, aren't, unless they're very short.

Here's a chart for cable size, WRT load and length-

https://www.the12volt.com/wiring/rec...wire-sizes.asp
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  #30  
Old 09-03-2018, 03:58 PM
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cal2vin cal2vin is offline
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Iím not trying to power the system on the alternator alone. I realize I canít expect the alternator to charge a giant house bank. Thatís why I use shore charging as well.

So how would I get the power from the batteries to the amps? I used the largest gauge possibly accepted for each amp. And actually went up to 1/0 ga runs to each of the JL HD series which wanted a smaller gauge if I remember correctly. My runs are all below 6 feet. The batteries sit right next to all the amps.


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