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  #11  
Old 09-21-2018, 07:47 AM
BacNBlak BacNBlak is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Boat: 1990 Maristar 210
Location: Mid Atlantic
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayR View Post
Any more shots of the seal team boat? that thing looks bad ***.
I have a couple

First pic is after we repowered these boats, getting break in hours on them. We were out on the Chesapeake Bay.

Second pic is in a far away land but is one of my favorites!

Lastly, finally went and picked up the Maristar. It was difficult, but actually went really well. Shes back at the farm now!





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  #12  
Old 09-21-2018, 07:57 AM
BacNBlak BacNBlak is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Boat: 1990 Maristar 210
Location: Mid Atlantic
Posts: 23
Addressing the windscreen misalignment - I need to look into it further but the aluminum flat that the center section rests on (when closed) is partially bent and it will allow the center piece to fold past the main section *if its flexed* a little bit. Its not major, nothing structural with the hull or even the mounting itself.
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  #13  
Old 09-21-2018, 11:00 AM
toddvdh toddvdh is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Boat: 2004 maristar 210
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by BacNBlak View Post
Addressing the windscreen misalignment - I need to look into it further but the aluminum flat that the center section rests on (when closed) is partially bent and it will allow the center piece to fold past the main section *if its flexed* a little bit. Its not major, nothing structural with the hull or even the mounting itself.
Good news on the windscreen and cool pics!
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  #14  
Old 09-29-2018, 09:35 PM
BacNBlak BacNBlak is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Boat: 1990 Maristar 210
Location: Mid Atlantic
Posts: 23
I've been working on removing old carpet and such as to remove as much of the 'organic matter' as I can so that I don't contract any diseases when working on the boat in the future .

I stuffed it in this spot in the barn for now to keep it dry. I have a boat load (pardon my pun) of trailer parts on the way from etrailer.com. My goal before winter is to get the trailer in shape, inspected and tagged. I want to get the bottom paint off the hull, possibly clean and polish the rest of the hull as well.

In removing the carpet, I have a question. It seems the carpet was installed before the top of the hull was placed. My plan as of now is to install something like Corinthian carpet with velcro so that I can remove and clean it as needed. Will I need to install some sort of material between the top section of the hull and the fiberglass floor? The same goes for the seat mounts as the carpet was installed under them too. I broke all but one of the screws that hold the seat mounts in place so I need to remove the remaining studs there now.

Feeling confident in this as I've been in contact with 91tri190. Thanks for the help!

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #15  
Old 09-30-2018, 12:25 AM
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osmonet osmonet is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Boat: 2008 X2, MCX
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 994
Welcome and good luck with your project. Please post pics as make progress.

If you haven't found this thread, it may be helpful in your transmission adventure

https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=53874
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  #16  
Old 09-30-2018, 07:34 PM
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system.builder system.builder is offline
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I can help / would love to help with any of this. Saw your comment on my post.

These things are just beasts that refuse to die. I took mine from the graveyard to fully functional and have gained a lot of experience (I'm an engine guy, and can also do some limited gelcoat work).

Hit me in PM, you are mid-atlantic so near me and I can travel.
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2018, 07:27 PM
BacNBlak BacNBlak is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Boat: 1990 Maristar 210
Location: Mid Atlantic
Posts: 23
Couple of updates here. Been too wet to farm so I figured I'd start on the project! First update is on the trailer.

-New hubs, bearings seals. I went without brakes (I know, I know) because I have a 5 mile trip on flat land to the marina. One day I may upgrade to a disc brake kit but I am done with drums! Had to order different seals than those that came from etrailer. They were 1.72" seal diameters while I measured the spindle at 1.68". Trailerparts.com had the correct seal.
-New bunks; ground contact lumber and carpet. Used weldwood cement and stainless staples.
-All new wiring and LED lights
-Repaired damaged fenders as best I could. Came out pretty good I think
-All new suspension; Equalizers, springs, shackles, wet bolts.

Removing old suspension was a treat. I heated the spring eyes until it melted the nylon bushings, heated the bolt head until glowing and then used an air chisel with punch to drive them out. I am just now fitting these Craigslist special rims off a late 80's Ranger. The offset puts the inside bead a bit closer to the hull and fender so we will see.... Its a 14x6" rim with a 4 1/8" off set.

Trailer Before:


New bunks:


New Suspension:


Maybe new wheels?
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2018, 07:44 PM
BacNBlak BacNBlak is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Boat: 1990 Maristar 210
Location: Mid Atlantic
Posts: 23
And now the fun stuff. The bottom paint.

I was unsuccessful at getting any type of positive result with bottom paint removers. They are expensive, messy and left a lot of work as well as a gummy residue that I didnt want to wash off considering my work conditions. I think I tried everything but finally decided that I was just going to have to do it the hard way. What worked for me is to scrape bulk with a putty knife, sand with 120 grit on a 5" orbital. I am using such an aggressive pad because first, the residue of bottom paint is tough. Second, I am removing 95% of the scoring in the gelcoat that was done to apply the bottom paint. Which leads me to my next job, repairing the chines that were damaged by, I assume, the mouth breather that prepped for bottom paint. There are quite a few edges of chines that are down into the fiberglass.

I am using a Rockwell sonic sander with a triangle tip to remove paint from the chines and the radius leading up to them. It works good and is very controllable as to not chew off any excess.

I am not 100% sure on my next steps. I will probably lightly go over with 220 dry and then I will either wet sand in stages or I may *attempt* to buff with 3M cutting compound. The test below (that turned out great) was 220 dry, 800 wet, 1000 wet and 2000 wet.

Before:


Test:


Phase 1 - 120 Dry complete
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2018, 09:02 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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Location: lake
Posts: 12,362
Sounds like a plan. Best luck.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 11-09-2018 at 09:39 PM.
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  #20  
Old 11-15-2018, 11:59 PM
James78 James78 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Boat: Maristar 210, 1991, 351W
Location: south
Posts: 3
I don't think mine was in such shape when I got her, but I didn't get her for $500 either.

You'd be surprised how well the interior could clean up, I took all the vinyl off of the wood and aired out the foam and repaired any seams that were busted... cleaned for days and replaced any rotted wood. reinstalling was much easier with a good pneumatic upholstery stapler.

You have a great all around boat and once you get her back in the water you will be very happy.

This is my 91 after a couple years of work...
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