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Old 05-25-2017, 10:44 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 42
I have a Mastercraft Skier P-S it is grey with blue rainbow stripes graphics that are supposedly unique to 1986, The boat title does however say 1985, and the original mastercraft trailer says 1986. If I had to guess it was manufactured late 1985 but is the 1986 design, The engine says PCM and is stamped PLD WR L15

I bought it from a guy that had it sitting in his drive way for the last 5 years covered under a tarp (last registered 2012), some of that time the tarps must have been bad, because the bilge was full of water, and the drain plug still installed.

stamps on the prop show: 14, 18, 1 1/8, its 3 blade, hull has a dish indent above the prop.

because it has sat for so long I want to do any maintenance it might need before even trying to turn it over or touch the starter.
The engine hours on the dash show 1,130. I checked the oil on the dipstick, it looks just slightly used and still very clean, no moisture.

on car engines that have sat a very long time I would usually remove all the spark plugs and put a cap full of ATF down the cylinders and let that soak the rings for a day or two, and then after a couple days add a cap of clean oil and try turning the engine by hand with the spark plugs out, then if motor appears to be free and spinning easy do a compression check.

planned work (Please correct me if you have a better suggestion/brand on any of these)

First make sure engine still turns over and check compression.
remove and drain fuel tank completely, add 5 gallons fresh Ethanol Free Gas.

I plan to use some seafoam, but I think I should ease it out of retirement first before doing that right?

new impeller R061015 (pleasurecraft)
new plugs, wires, cap, rotor (what plugs, and what brand wires/cap/rotor?)
new Interstate Marine battery
new blower motor (it works but it Grinds and sounds AWFUL, any particular brand?)
also need new blower motor vent tubing, its torn/shredded
new thermostat, one is 143 the other is 170 degree, assuming I want the 170 (rp026001)? (pleasurecraft)
new oil and oil filter (Mobile synthetic 15w50 and Mobile 1 filter M1-301a
new belts and hoses

A lot of the wiring/connections are corroded, so I will need to clean them up before I can test what still works.
Test Alternator and Starter, may possibly need rebuilt/replaced
Test coil
clean points?

I have read the owners manual and skimmed through the service manual, I see that it is recommended to use a fuel filter, I do not think I see one unless I am overlooking it, did these come with a fuel filter?

Also at what point on the boat does it draw raw water that the impeller is using? all my previous boats were inboard/outboard and they had a foot which is where the impeller would draw from.
They also had ear muffs for running water to them while running the engine in your yard, assuming on this one I would be hooking up a hose someplace.

If there is Anything that I Overlooked and should address please let me know!

Below is how the boat looked when I got it. I am washing it today!
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Last edited by jieiku; 05-25-2017 at 10:57 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2017, 01:30 AM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 42
spent about 3 hours washing the outside, still have the inside to do.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2017, 01:45 AM
gweaver gweaver is offline
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Boat: 2003 VRS 230 w/X-boat package, 8.1L
Location: Northern California
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Looks like a good project. For that year boat, you may or may not have fiberglass stringers- one of the more knowledgeable folks here can tell, but 85/86 was the year they changed from wood to fiberglass. You'll want to check for soft spots in the floor which can indicate rot.

As far as the raw water intake, that's the hose coming up out of the floor just to the side of the transmission. If you disconnect the intake before the big bronze T, that's where you can attach a hose. You'll need to cobble together an adapter- garden hose to whatever will attach to the lower end of the T. Something like this:


Alternately, you can do the Fake-a-lake route.


I forget the brand name, but this is also an option- it's an inline fitting that has a garden hose attachment and a valve that automatically seals off the raw water intake if there's a hose attached and turned on.


One important thing- normal house water pressure won't flow enough water to feed your engine at anything above idle speeds. If you try to rev it up, you risk collapsing the hose and starving the engine of water which can cause overheating.

G
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:48 AM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 42
OH! The boat came with one of those plunger thingies, now I know what it is for! thank you!

I read that late 1983, 1984+ was the first year of the composite stringers, so I believe I have the good stringers. Floor feels rock solid to walk around on it and when I try to bounce up and down.

Also Thank you very much for the tip on only idleing the engine with the water hose!
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:57 AM
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Dogtown Lake Dogtown Lake is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Boat: '86 skier
Location: BC
Posts: 91
Nice find, it's amazing what a little clean up will do. My boat is the same year, out of WA and quite likely, was side by side with yours on the lot in '86
I'm no expert just an owner, but your methodical approach to first start up should serve well. Mine has 1330+ hrs and runs like a dream still. Hope yours comes back to life!


I'm sure a restoration vet will come along soon..
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:14 PM
woodrowskis woodrowskis is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Boat: 2015 Prostar (previous boat 2002 197)
Location: South
Posts: 179
Fuel Filter is on left side of engine mounted on a bracket to the steel channels of the engine on the sides compartment. I am pretty sure I see the bracket. it is a metal cylinder that contains filter and also works as a separator (water drain plug on bottom.) Pull it, drain it, clean it out, and get new filter. There will probably rust in the bottom from water sitting in it if not run for 5 years.


Good chance you'll need some carb work. I would syphon the gas tank, then pull it, and drain everything out and maybe even shake around a little new gas to clean it out before re-installing. This doesn't cost anything. Look at your fuel lines since it may have set with ethanol gas for all this time.
Another guy recently almost completely restored a similar boat so there is a really good thread for you to look at for information. You don't need to do everything but lots of good pictures for you to see how your boat is put together.

https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ht=restoration
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:15 AM
BetulaOldBlue BetulaOldBlue is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Skier 19 351PCM
Location: Canada
Posts: 1
The last 2 digits on the VIN on the transom are the year.
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  #8  
Old 05-27-2017, 09:14 AM
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Hammer Hammer is online now
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If it were me I would rebuild the carb. I'm sure all the passages are gummed up. Or send it to mrmastercraft and have him do it. And pump some fuel through the lines before you hook it back up. Your list looks pretty good otherwise.
Oh, didn't see the trans in that list. Change the fluid in that also.

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Last edited by Hammer; 05-27-2017 at 04:14 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-27-2017, 07:35 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 42
Thanks for pointing out the filter location. I got it removed and im going to get the sierra spin on upgrade: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=77317

The vin# does end with 86.

Agree about the carb, prolly has clogged jets, I know a little about carbs, but all cars I have owned have been fuel injected, so I am definitely not a carb expert, I know enough to clean jets and check the floats and thats about it. Need to browse the forum to find out what the preffered brand, type, & weight is for the transmission.

I got all 8 spark plugs out and they look good. I used my oil can and put a few squirts of ATF down each cylinder. In a couple of days I will see if she turns over.

Got both the sierra fuel filter kit and the impeller kit ordered. for the impeller kit I ordered Sherwood Impeller Kit 9959K because I could not find the part number R061015 listed in the manual, from what I can tell sherwood is the maker of the pump and 9959K is the same part with a newer part number.

Last edited by jieiku; 05-27-2017 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:26 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 42
I got the accessories and belts removed from the engine. The engine turned over with minimal effort, 1/2" ratchet, sitting down with one arm and no cheater bar, able to turn it over. so thats the GOOD NEWS.

Bad news is that almost anything else that has a moving part either needs rebuilt or replaced. All pulleys are rusted and pitted, the Sherwood G21 and alternator pulley don't look that bad, but the others do. The alternator was completely seized, took a little leverage to break it free and turn it, starter was half submerged, it looks very rusty.

Marine Starters and Alternators are very expensive, I want to fix the boat right with marine parts, but don't want to throw money away either.

I am going to take the alternator and starter apart and see if they can be rebuilt.

I am going to take the pulleys to a machine shop and see if I can get them sandblasted and cleaned up, I tried finding new pulleys, the best I could find were over priced used ones, I am not paying $100 for a pulley, that's crazy. I will get the starter and alternator housings sand blasted while I have them disassembled too.

once the alternator and starter are cleaned up a bit I will probably just take them someplace that rebuilds starters and alternators, if I took them in looking like they are now, I would either get charged an arm and a leg or just get refused I would imagine.

The flywheel looks pretty bad looking through the starter hole, I am going to take the access cover off and do my best to clean it up in there without actually pulling the engine, hopefully that is sufficient, I can actually see standing water in there with the flywheel looking through the starter hole.

The other thing that has me worried is the distributor, I am thinking it may end up needing attention as well.

I would have done a compression test and posted the numbers here, but without a starter I cannot do that yet.
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