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  #11  
Old 10-15-2017, 10:54 AM
Tmac in Folsom Tmac in Folsom is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft, 1985 Stars & Stripes, 351, Powerslot
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thanks for the suggestions/recommendations guys. I know for a fact that the disti hold-down clamp is a bit on the rusty side. I was planning to buy a Pertronix Billet distributor either way so I'll clean the hold-down clamp, bolt, etc. at that time
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2017, 10:35 AM
MDB1056 MDB1056 is offline
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Boat: 1983 Starts & Stripes Powerslot, 92 Hydrodyne Comp
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Yes. Would agree with the above. Your problem is electrical. Not fuel. Coil or ignition module would be my first two guesses. Just had a similar issue on my other boat (92 Hydrodyne Comp) that took a year to run down. Wouldn't die, but wouldn't start hot. Ruled out vapor lock as shooting starting fluid into carb it still wouldn't fire off so knew it's not fuel. You could do the same to rule out fuel as if it was running fine and then dies and doesn't fire with starting fluid it's not a fuel issue. My coil was brand new and it did the same with the old one so ruled that out and went to ignition module which was ORIGINAL and did not look good on inspection. Swapped it for a new one and we're back!
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  #13  
Old 10-23-2017, 05:33 PM
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hardycm hardycm is offline
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I agree -- check the coil. Its cheap and easy. If that doesn't work, try eliminating as many other non-essential electrical connections as possible and add them back one by one. On my '88 PS 190 I did this and determined there was an issue in my tachometer which was essentially grounding out the coil eliminating any spark. New tach and I was back in business. Not saying this is your problem, but the troubleshooting approach could work.
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  #14  
Old 10-23-2017, 06:41 PM
Tmac in Folsom Tmac in Folsom is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft, 1985 Stars & Stripes, 351, Powerslot
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great input; thank you. I became pretty much convinced of the same so I went ahead and replaced the distributor with a PerTronix Billet distributor with the built in Ignitor III. Set #1 to TDC and dropped it in with very little trouble. Fired right up and I adjusted the timing by ear (I think I got luck and it was pretty damn close to perfect). I didn't have time to drop her in the water this past weekend but I hope to do so next weekend at which time I'll fine-tune the timing at operating temperature.
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  #15  
Old 10-23-2017, 06:53 PM
Tmac in Folsom Tmac in Folsom is offline
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another quick question...is the ballast resistor the rectangular white ceramic looking block that's under the black plastic cover that houses the primary fuse? If so, PerTronix recommends bypassing the ballast resistor. I wired the new Disti directly to the coil (Flamethrower 1.5 ohm) positive and negative; is there something else I should do in terms of insuring that the ballast resistor is bypassed?
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  #16  
Old 10-23-2017, 08:26 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Simply connect all ballast wire connectors to the same post to bypass it.
Here is a pic of a bad ballast resistor for identification. Name:  IMG_5254.jpg
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  #17  
Old 10-23-2017, 08:39 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Another road to travel (not trying to one-up or "look at me") to Fishing-Pete.....

The purple wire between the two posts does exactly what Pete said. Just another way to get the same results.

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  #18  
Old 10-23-2017, 11:18 PM
Tmac in Folsom Tmac in Folsom is offline
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Yup...that's the part I was referring to. I'll consolidate the wires on the ballast resistor this weekend before I take her out on the water....thanks again!
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  #19  
Old 10-24-2017, 01:57 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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It's effectively bypassed with the wire that connects the two contacts together, but you are better off just using one stud. The jumper between the studs will no longer be necessary.
While you are doing this stuff, check you coil + voltage with key on/engine off and while running. You should have battery voltage. If not, start troubleshooting...you have a bad connection somewhere.


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  #20  
Old 10-25-2017, 12:48 PM
Tmac in Folsom Tmac in Folsom is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft, 1985 Stars & Stripes, 351, Powerslot
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checked my Ballast Resistor last night and apparently I had bypassed it (tied the 2 orange wires to a single post) when I changed my coil a few years ago. 2 more questions:

1. The ballast resistor looks a little "long in the tooth"; much like the photo above from thatsmrmastercraft. Do I need to be concerned in the least bit? At this point it's nothing more than a terminal block; correct?

2. Engine/ignition timing - I've seen a lot of figures on this site; what's your suggestion? 351w, completely stock (other than the ignition mods), ~850 hours on the motor
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