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  #81  
Old 12-06-2017, 11:43 AM
Timr71 Timr71 is offline
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Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 93 Ski Centurion Falcon
Location: Southeast
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If you don't mind me asking...how heavy does that wood structure feel? It does look like you'll be able to lift this seat in and out of the boat as needed. Maybe?
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  #82  
Old 12-06-2017, 12:43 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jieiku View Post
seat construction pics - final product when i take more boat pics
So I made sure to take pictures as I was rebuilding the back seat to help anyone else out need to do the same. I was lucky that I still had the old styrofoam seat to take measurements from.

Anyone looking to build a backseat, The main thing I can recommend is laying the boards into the boat and arranging them to make sure they will fit the way you think they will. On the year range model, the part you sit on is supposed to sit at a slight angle, meaning the back of the seat is lower than the front edge. However the entire seat is only a couple inches total off the floor. I think I have the back of the seat at about half inch to an inch and the front is somewhere around 2.5", I am talking about the wood structure.

I built the base first, then peaced the back, then the sides, every board I cut I brought back to the boat to see how it would line up (the angles)

Also the back and side walls do not go straight up from the base, the both lay at a slight angle, this means cutting the end of the boards at an angle. I cought on to all the angles early on and would purposely cut a lot of my boards a few inches longer so that I could adjust the angle, and trim off 1/4 inch at a time, only changing the angle, then once the angle was right I would trim the board to the final length.

wow that turned into a wall of text, here are the construction shots, the final product picture will be very soon, when I uncover the boat to winterize I will take more pics. In the final product, I put all the original yellow foam and the vinyl over my wood seat, because of the time and patience I used building the backseat, the vinyl fit over the wood one just about perfectly. I attached the vinyl with a stapler gun, to get a good fit with the old vinyl the most important part to measure is the distance between the two top back corner of the vinyl, I flipped it upside down, stretched it out, and measured between the two points where the top back corners of the seat would be. This effectively limits the width, the seat doesnt actually go all the way to the walls on the original seat, they had a gap for the boat padded side rails, between the seat and side of the boat, that is why my seat does not go all the way to the sides of the boat, if I were not reusing the old vinyl then I could have made the backseat a couple of inches wider.

between working on this and my truck, I didn't get to use the boat as much as I would have liked this summer. Now that the boat and truck are both almost 100%, I should be able to take the boat out a lot this next summer.
Looks like a great project. I keep toying with making a rear seat for my boat.
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  #83  
Old 12-12-2017, 08:36 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
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sorry guys, been really busy. Here is a picture of it covered with the original material. Also I weighed it on my scale, it weighs 75 pounds, it could probably be built a little lighter, but for me I can easily lift it with one hand, with two people it would be super easy to remove any time.
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  #84  
Old 12-13-2017, 11:03 AM
Timr71 Timr71 is offline
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Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 93 Ski Centurion Falcon
Location: Southeast
Posts: 341
wow, only 75 pounds doesn't seem like too much
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  #85  
Old 07-24-2018, 03:34 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
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Cool 2018 update.

Truck transmission has been working reliably, so my pickup truck is pretty much done and ready to use. I also fixed the AC!

Got the Mastercraft de-winterized and started up a few days ago, still runs great! I also got the Fuel sending unit replaced with a WEMA (WEMA 316 9-1/2") unit, now I have a working fuel gauge.

With the limited testing I did last year I think I remember seeing an exhaust leak, so I might need to replace a gasket between the cylinder head and manifold, will have to take another look when I take it out again.

Also I remember one of the two speedometers was not working, I think there is a way to clean the little sending unit fin on the back of the boat to make it work again, but I do not know how or what is involved.
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  #86  
Old 07-24-2018, 04:09 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, Prostar 205, 1994, LT1
Location: Rocky Mountains....Colorado Springs
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What a great transformation and on a tight budget! Very cool you got it running so well. Congrats!
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  #87  
Old 07-24-2018, 04:15 PM
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wetterthebetter wetterthebetter is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1980,1984, Stars and stripes,1971 AquaCraft Drag boat, 1991 American Skier
Location: northern Sierras between Lake Tahoe and Sacramento
Posts: 106
I had a Holley from an old stars that had worn out throttle shafts and a lot of water damage from ethanol blended fuel.
I bought the Holley 4160 Marine Carburetor replacement from Summit
Make: FORD
Beginning Year: 1980
Ending Year: 1997
Engine Type: V8
Engine Size: 5.8L/351
Engine Family: Ford small block Windsor
Usage: Marine
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  #88  
Old 07-24-2018, 04:28 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
YEP! Peter (thatsmrmastercraft) did an excellent job rebuilding the carb for me. I have had no trouble from it. (Also since I have owned it I have used only ethanol Free fuel.)

Now I just need to figure out to the trick to loading this boat. I still have the original trailer, and the winch seems to pull down at a downward angle.

I have only had it down to the lake a few times, but I never can wench it all the way back onto the trailer, it ends up like 6-8" short of where it need to be.

I dont wanna use the winch to pull the boat any farther because it would likely pull the EYE out of the front of the HULL, the boat really seems like it does not want to move. So I end up using the winch simply to get the cable tight and keep the boat from sliding back off the trailer.

Before you ask, Yes I do back the entire bunks into the water to get them wet first. I am thinking maybe these early year mastercraft trailers are just stubborn, also it has a very odd bar with a slot that is supposed to slip over the pull EYE, I do not think I care for that, but I could use it anyway if I weren't having so much trouble loading the boat.

I have not tried power loading it yet, that might actually be the ticket, but when you power load, what keeps the boat from just sliding back off the trailer? Also not sure how comfortable I am with power loading, I have always just used the winch on all the boats I have owned.
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  #89  
Old 07-24-2018, 04:37 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, Prostar 205, 1994, LT1
Location: Rocky Mountains....Colorado Springs
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Can you just back the trailer into the water more? You might just be trying to pull it up too long of a distance. On my boat, I back it into the water to just cover the top of the tire fenders.

The back end of the boat is still just barely floating once I get it all the way up, and the front secured. Then, as I pull out of the water, I have a kid on the back end grabbing onto the pole and center the boat as I pull it the rest of the way out of the water. Works perfectly!

My brother loaded my boat once without me.....stripped the gears on my winch and it still wasn't all the way on the trailer. I suspect it wasn't in the water deep enough to load.
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  #90  
Old 07-24-2018, 05:09 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
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Will keep that in mind and give it a try next trip down to the lake, Thanks!
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