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  #21  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by memphis23 View Post
The head unit is still connected to the speakers.

The volume is cutting out at a very low volume level. The boat is new to me so I don't know the history.

I did turn the bass all the way off to try to get the volume to go up further but is still shuts off at the same level everytime.
Disconnect it from the speakers and measure each speaker wire for resistance. If you see anything below 3 Ohms, you have a bad speaker or a shorted wire. Look at the connections at both ends- any stray wire strands will cause a problem. You can disconnect one speaker at a time but you still need to check the resistance. FYI- you're not checking impedance, just DC resistance.
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  #22  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:38 PM
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I will do that this evening. thanks
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  #23  
Old 05-19-2012, 04:01 PM
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3 out of 4 blown speakers U R a Genius! thanks

I think I want to put in some more Roswell speakers to match my tower r6's that will fit but everyone keeps talking about polk

what do you think????
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  #24  
Old 05-19-2012, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by memphis23 View Post
3 out of 4 blown speakers U R a Genius! thanks

I think I want to put in some more Roswell speakers to match my tower r6's that will fit but everyone keeps talking about polk

what do you think????
Don't feel obligated to buy a brand of speakers just because the amp is the same. Speakers sound different from each other- amps are a lot more similar in sound. Find the ones that sound good to you and don't pay much attention to the specs- they're usually not honest. You won't need them to handle much bass and the amp's filters (HP and LP) should definitely be used.
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2012, 10:59 AM
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Well I ended up taking the speakers off one at a time to find that 3 out of 4 speakers were blown. I took the one good speaker and plugged it into each of the speaker connections and it would allow me to turn the volume up all the way. So I bought 4 new speakers feeling confident that was the solution. NOT. When I plugged all my new speakers in at the same time I had the same problem. (lucky I neede to replace the speakers anyway) So now I have a new head unit to put in tonight. If I still have a problem after that I may get a baseball bat
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2012, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by memphis23 View Post
Well I ended up taking the speakers off one at a time to find that 3 out of 4 speakers were blown. I took the one good speaker and plugged it into each of the speaker connections and it would allow me to turn the volume up all the way. So I bought 4 new speakers feeling confident that was the solution. NOT. When I plugged all my new speakers in at the same time I had the same problem. (lucky I needed to replace the speakers anyway) So now I have a new head unit to put in tonight. If I still have a problem after that I may get a baseball bat
Take your multi-meter and measure from each speaker wire to the tower- set it to continuity, auto-ranging. Each wire, not each pair of wires. also, check between each wire and all of the others- if you have shorts between channels, the head unit will puke because of this .If you see ANY continuity, you'll have a problem. If you do, you'll need to replace the wires.

It's possible that the amplifier chips in the head unit were damaged by the shorted speakers. If this is the case and you won't be connecting the speakers directly to the head unit, you can still use that one by opening it and looking for a harness that connects to the amplifier section (this has an aluminum heat sink with two or four chips on it). Unplug the harness and try it with only the line outs connected to an amp- it should work fine.

BTW- turning the volume up all the way is bad for the speakers and head unit. EVERY head unit will distort at that level, period. If you used it that way, it's no big surprise that your speakers blew. It's like starting your car and putting your foot to the floor, waiting for parts to fly through the hood.
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  #27  
Old 09-09-2012, 11:32 AM
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Mzimme: I know this is an old one but I have still been struggling and I think I am going to wire it like you have said here but with different equipment. Now I have a 5 channel Fusion 1600 watt class D amp with a Fusion ip-700 Head unit.

"To make it sound best with what you have, bridge the two tower speakers between channel 1 and 2, and use channels 3 and 4 to bridge the sub. Run the high pass filter on channels 1 and 2, and run the low pass filter on channels 3/4. Keep all the interior speakers hooked up to the head unit, and also run any sort of built in equilizer to not allow anything less than 80hz to the interior speakers. This will help reduce distortion while running those speakers from your head unit and let them get louder. The sub will help take care of the low's that you'll be missing from the interior speakers."

In looking at the back of the Head unit I get running the interior speakers wiring it is pretty straight forward for Zone 1 and Zone 2 but when it comes to the amp and sub and tower speakers I get a little confused.The Head unit instructions show that it has 4 other Zones for more amps and Sirius xm and Tv etc...

My questions are:

The head has unit has 4 separate RCA connections(Zones) and all have 3 Rca connections on each plug labeled R, L,S the amp has only 3 input locations FR,FL/ RR, RL / SUB,SUB

I am getting confused on where to plug the RCA wires going to the amp and how to wire to the speakers coming out of the amp.

Should I use Zone 1 from the Head Unit and only plug the R,L (not using the S on the RCA plug) into FR,FL on the amp for only one of the Tower speakers?

and then plug Zone 2 R,L output into the RR, RL on the amp for the other Tower speaker

and lastly and this is confusing to me. I use only the S on the RCA plug labeled R,L,S plug from Zone 3 on the Head unit to the amp for the SUB, SUB? Dont I need 2 wires going to the sub?

Does anything need to bridge and how and where would bridge anything? since I am only running 2 tower speakers and a sub with a 5 channel amp?

Does this make sense?

Last edited by memphis23; 09-09-2012 at 11:34 AM.
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  #28  
Old 09-09-2012, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by memphis23 View Post
Mzimme: I know this is an old one but I have still been struggling and I think I am going to wire it like you have said here but with different equipment. Now I have a 5 channel Fusion 1600 watt class D amp with a Fusion ip-700 Head unit.

"To make it sound best with what you have, bridge the two tower speakers between channel 1 and 2, and use channels 3 and 4 to bridge the sub. Run the high pass filter on channels 1 and 2, and run the low pass filter on channels 3/4. Keep all the interior speakers hooked up to the head unit, and also run any sort of built in equilizer to not allow anything less than 80hz to the interior speakers. This will help reduce distortion while running those speakers from your head unit and let them get louder. The sub will help take care of the low's that you'll be missing from the interior speakers."

In looking at the back of the Head unit I get running the interior speakers wiring it is pretty straight forward for Zone 1 and Zone 2 but when it comes to the amp and sub and tower speakers I get a little confused.The Head unit instructions show that it has 4 other Zones for more amps and Sirius xm and Tv etc...

My questions are:

The head has unit has 4 separate RCA connections(Zones) and all have 3 Rca connections on each plug labeled R, L,S the amp has only 3 input locations FR,FL/ RR, RL / SUB,SUB

I am getting confused on where to plug the RCA wires going to the amp and how to wire to the speakers coming out of the amp.

Should I use Zone 1 from the Head Unit and only plug the R,L (not using the S on the RCA plug) into FR,FL on the amp for only one of the Tower speakers?

and then plug Zone 2 R,L output into the RR, RL on the amp for the other Tower speaker

and lastly and this is confusing to me. I use only the S on the RCA plug labeled R,L,S plug from Zone 3 on the Head unit to the amp for the SUB, SUB? Dont I need 2 wires going to the sub?

Does anything need to bridge and how and where would bridge anything? since I am only running 2 tower speakers and a sub with a 5 channel amp?

Does this make sense?
You need to read the manual- it should clear up some of the details. Unfortunately, if they haven't re-written it since I called them to tell them that their pdf version is one of the worst I have seen, read the paper version if they sent one with the head unit.

Before you start, measure the resistance on all speakers and make sure you have no measurable connection to the tower from any wire, as I mentioned before. If you see anything less than three Ohms on a pair of wires (this could be from using one speaker cable (one positive and one negative) for each channel to the tower speakers and making the connections to the speakers at the top.

First, if you will have any speakers that don't need to be amplified by the power amp, run those from the head unit (cabin speakers, most likely). If you decide to run the cabin speakers from the head unit AND HAVE FRONT/REAR FADER ABILITY, use Zone 3 for the tower speakers. This will allow you to fade the cabin speakers and not affect the level of the tower speakers. I would recommend connecting the sub input of the amp to match the level of the tower speakers and then vary its level by using the bass control knob.

Connect the Zone 1 and Zone 2 outputs (R and L from each) to the amplifier. You will need two stereo RCA cables and either a single RCA cable or another stereo cable. You don't need to use more than one subwoofer input if you will be controlling all zones without selecting one and this is covered in the manual's section about using the "controller" (main knob). Connect the phone cable to the amp and find a convenient location for the sub's level controller. This is only a control wire, so routing it near power wires won't cause any problems.

Mark the speaker wires and audio cables, as to their purpose. This will make assigning amp channels easier.

Connect the speaker wires to the amp- if you want to power the tower speakers together and you have bow/cabin speakers that you want to power from the amp, use Front for Zone one set and Rear for Zone 2. The only reason Front and Rear are used is because of the standard convention for designating this in car audio.

Bridging-
You shouldn't need to bridge anything. Also, if the tower speakers are wired parallel, you can't bridge the amp- bridged amp channels need to see 4 Ohms, in most cases. The difference in output from this doesn't justify using all four channels to drive one set of speakers.

The boat where I installed this head unit/amp combination is a 32' trawler with four ceiling speakers (also Fusion) and an MTX subwoofer below the walkway, firing through a vent panel in the starboard side, behind the sofa. It's freaking loud! Adding the four speakers at the fly bridge and the two in the cockpit pillars- people hear this boat before they see it.

The manual describes how to set the levels- DO THAT. Once the levels are set and you find that one set is too loud, DECREASE the level of the louder speaker channels, never boost the channels that aren't loud enough.

POWER CABLE-
Make sure the power cables are appropriate for the load. This amp will draw a lot of current if driven hard, especially if the speaker load is 2 Ohms. If the shop ran 4 ga and it's not more than about 12', you should be OK. If it's heavier, you won't need to worry about the gauge. Find out where they ran the ground cable. If they took the shortest route and attached it to the engine block, it needs to be replaced by a new one that goes directly to the battery's negative post.

Last edited by JimN; 09-09-2012 at 12:46 PM.
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  #29  
Old 09-10-2012, 01:23 AM
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Jim, I did not want to go through all that. Nice post.

Memphis. IMHO this all may be way over your head. A real professional install is what I would recommend. Then if anything isn't like you want it they fix it. No more plausible baseball bat

From what I remember your cockpit speakers could only handle 45 watts each. Even your head unit gives out more than that. so with that being said prepare to buy 4 more soon. And listen to Jim about the zones etc or you will have it all hooked up and forget what zone to set your amp on and it won't work at all.

Do you have a fuse in between all your amps head unit and battery? Good way to burn your boat if you dont. I'm running 0ga for power to blocks to 4ga for amps. 16 ga speaker wire. and all gold stinger rca's. Properly supply your amp requires the right size wire for it to get through.
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  #30  
Old 09-10-2012, 09:15 AM
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Traxx: yes to the fuse. I have the same wire configuration as you 16 ga and 4 ga and stringers for the RCA's. I can't remember on the **** pit speakers maybe 75 watts.

JimN.Yes very good info. First off I thought I had the amp manual but it was the head unit manual. I finally found the amp manual and as small as it is the info is very straight forward. I will be running only zone 1 and zone 2 for the tower speakers and the sub, cabin speakers will get the head unit. I will keep you posted. I ran into something else yesterday when I started this project. Head unit won't fit. I will send pics after I figure out how I am going to modify the dash.

cheers

Last edited by memphis23; 09-10-2012 at 09:17 AM.
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