Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Audio/Stereo

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-15-2012, 12:06 PM
memphis23's Avatar
memphis23 memphis23 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 1988 190 prostar
Location: south
Posts: 219
Roswell 4 channel AMP

I have a PS 190 and the installer is coming out to do an install. I have a Roswell 4 channel 500 watt amp.

Questions: Can I run two r6 tower speakers on 2 of the channels and then Run the 10 inch sub woofer on one of the channels and then run all 4 of the inside speakers from the last channel.

I know I will lose the Balance and Fade that is not a concern if I can get a little cleaner sound out of my smaller speakers that are in the boat???

thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-15-2012, 12:19 PM
mzimme's Avatar
mzimme mzimme is offline
MC Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 2006 20' Vdrive
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 5,667
If it was me, I'd get another 2 channel amp. Wire the sub bridged between two channels on your Roswell amp, and run all 4 interior speaekrs on the other two channels, then get another 2 channel amp and bridge the tower speakers to that amp.

Running 4 speakers on 1 channel will create a ton of resistance and you'll really cut into the power delivery to each speaker.


To make it sound best with what you have, bridge the two tower speakers between channel 1 and 2, and use channels 3 and 4 to bridge the sub. Run the high pass filter on channels 1 and 2, and run the low pass filter on channels 3/4. Keep all the interior speakers hooked up to the head unit, and also run any sort of built in equilizer to not allow anything less than 80hz to the interior speakers. This will help reduce distortion while running those speakers from your head unit and let them get louder. The sub will help take care of the low's that you'll be missing from the interior speakers.

Don't try to hook all of that up to a single amp though...

Last edited by mzimme; 05-15-2012 at 12:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-15-2012, 01:08 PM
memphis23's Avatar
memphis23 memphis23 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 1988 190 prostar
Location: south
Posts: 219
Thanks for the comment

I am also having a problem with my radio turning off when I turn it up. From reading other threads they say that I need to have better voltage going to the radio. I was wondering since the amp must be turned on manually could I run the power from the amp to the radio and just turn the radio on when I turn the amp on?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:11 AM
memphis23's Avatar
memphis23 memphis23 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 1988 190 prostar
Location: south
Posts: 219
The amp is installed and the head unit still cuts out when the volume is turned up.

We changed the power to go directly to the brand new yellow top battery and still same result. My installer says the unit is bad. (does everyone agree???)

and

If I need a new head unit please tell me which one is the best for the money?

thanks
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:48 AM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,026
Quote:
Originally Posted by memphis23 View Post
The amp is installed and the head unit still cuts out when the volume is turned up.

We changed the power to go directly to the brand new yellow top battery and still same result. My installer says the unit is bad. (does everyone agree???)

and

If I need a new head unit please tell me which one is the best for the money?

thanks
Are the head unit's speaker wires bare, or were they cut off, cleanly. If the head unit is still connected to speakers, check the speakers.

Are you turning the volume up all the way? That's a good way to cause this. Is the bass control turned up all the way? That will cause it, too.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:12 PM
memphis23's Avatar
memphis23 memphis23 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 1988 190 prostar
Location: south
Posts: 219
The head unit is still connected to the speakers.

The volume is cutting out at a very low volume level. The boat is new to me so I don't know the history.

I did turn the bass all the way off to try to get the volume to go up further but is still shuts off at the same level everytime.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-09-2012, 11:32 AM
memphis23's Avatar
memphis23 memphis23 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 1988 190 prostar
Location: south
Posts: 219
Mzimme: I know this is an old one but I have still been struggling and I think I am going to wire it like you have said here but with different equipment. Now I have a 5 channel Fusion 1600 watt class D amp with a Fusion ip-700 Head unit.

"To make it sound best with what you have, bridge the two tower speakers between channel 1 and 2, and use channels 3 and 4 to bridge the sub. Run the high pass filter on channels 1 and 2, and run the low pass filter on channels 3/4. Keep all the interior speakers hooked up to the head unit, and also run any sort of built in equilizer to not allow anything less than 80hz to the interior speakers. This will help reduce distortion while running those speakers from your head unit and let them get louder. The sub will help take care of the low's that you'll be missing from the interior speakers."

In looking at the back of the Head unit I get running the interior speakers wiring it is pretty straight forward for Zone 1 and Zone 2 but when it comes to the amp and sub and tower speakers I get a little confused.The Head unit instructions show that it has 4 other Zones for more amps and Sirius xm and Tv etc...

My questions are:

The head has unit has 4 separate RCA connections(Zones) and all have 3 Rca connections on each plug labeled R, L,S the amp has only 3 input locations FR,FL/ RR, RL / SUB,SUB

I am getting confused on where to plug the RCA wires going to the amp and how to wire to the speakers coming out of the amp.

Should I use Zone 1 from the Head Unit and only plug the R,L (not using the S on the RCA plug) into FR,FL on the amp for only one of the Tower speakers?

and then plug Zone 2 R,L output into the RR, RL on the amp for the other Tower speaker

and lastly and this is confusing to me. I use only the S on the RCA plug labeled R,L,S plug from Zone 3 on the Head unit to the amp for the SUB, SUB? Dont I need 2 wires going to the sub?

Does anything need to bridge and how and where would bridge anything? since I am only running 2 tower speakers and a sub with a 5 channel amp?

Does this make sense?

Last edited by memphis23; 09-09-2012 at 11:34 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-09-2012, 12:27 PM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,026
Quote:
Originally Posted by memphis23 View Post
Mzimme: I know this is an old one but I have still been struggling and I think I am going to wire it like you have said here but with different equipment. Now I have a 5 channel Fusion 1600 watt class D amp with a Fusion ip-700 Head unit.

"To make it sound best with what you have, bridge the two tower speakers between channel 1 and 2, and use channels 3 and 4 to bridge the sub. Run the high pass filter on channels 1 and 2, and run the low pass filter on channels 3/4. Keep all the interior speakers hooked up to the head unit, and also run any sort of built in equilizer to not allow anything less than 80hz to the interior speakers. This will help reduce distortion while running those speakers from your head unit and let them get louder. The sub will help take care of the low's that you'll be missing from the interior speakers."

In looking at the back of the Head unit I get running the interior speakers wiring it is pretty straight forward for Zone 1 and Zone 2 but when it comes to the amp and sub and tower speakers I get a little confused.The Head unit instructions show that it has 4 other Zones for more amps and Sirius xm and Tv etc...

My questions are:

The head has unit has 4 separate RCA connections(Zones) and all have 3 Rca connections on each plug labeled R, L,S the amp has only 3 input locations FR,FL/ RR, RL / SUB,SUB

I am getting confused on where to plug the RCA wires going to the amp and how to wire to the speakers coming out of the amp.

Should I use Zone 1 from the Head Unit and only plug the R,L (not using the S on the RCA plug) into FR,FL on the amp for only one of the Tower speakers?

and then plug Zone 2 R,L output into the RR, RL on the amp for the other Tower speaker

and lastly and this is confusing to me. I use only the S on the RCA plug labeled R,L,S plug from Zone 3 on the Head unit to the amp for the SUB, SUB? Dont I need 2 wires going to the sub?

Does anything need to bridge and how and where would bridge anything? since I am only running 2 tower speakers and a sub with a 5 channel amp?

Does this make sense?
You need to read the manual- it should clear up some of the details. Unfortunately, if they haven't re-written it since I called them to tell them that their pdf version is one of the worst I have seen, read the paper version if they sent one with the head unit.

Before you start, measure the resistance on all speakers and make sure you have no measurable connection to the tower from any wire, as I mentioned before. If you see anything less than three Ohms on a pair of wires (this could be from using one speaker cable (one positive and one negative) for each channel to the tower speakers and making the connections to the speakers at the top.

First, if you will have any speakers that don't need to be amplified by the power amp, run those from the head unit (cabin speakers, most likely). If you decide to run the cabin speakers from the head unit AND HAVE FRONT/REAR FADER ABILITY, use Zone 3 for the tower speakers. This will allow you to fade the cabin speakers and not affect the level of the tower speakers. I would recommend connecting the sub input of the amp to match the level of the tower speakers and then vary its level by using the bass control knob.

Connect the Zone 1 and Zone 2 outputs (R and L from each) to the amplifier. You will need two stereo RCA cables and either a single RCA cable or another stereo cable. You don't need to use more than one subwoofer input if you will be controlling all zones without selecting one and this is covered in the manual's section about using the "controller" (main knob). Connect the phone cable to the amp and find a convenient location for the sub's level controller. This is only a control wire, so routing it near power wires won't cause any problems.

Mark the speaker wires and audio cables, as to their purpose. This will make assigning amp channels easier.

Connect the speaker wires to the amp- if you want to power the tower speakers together and you have bow/cabin speakers that you want to power from the amp, use Front for Zone one set and Rear for Zone 2. The only reason Front and Rear are used is because of the standard convention for designating this in car audio.

Bridging-
You shouldn't need to bridge anything. Also, if the tower speakers are wired parallel, you can't bridge the amp- bridged amp channels need to see 4 Ohms, in most cases. The difference in output from this doesn't justify using all four channels to drive one set of speakers.

The boat where I installed this head unit/amp combination is a 32' trawler with four ceiling speakers (also Fusion) and an MTX subwoofer below the walkway, firing through a vent panel in the starboard side, behind the sofa. It's freaking loud! Adding the four speakers at the fly bridge and the two in the cockpit pillars- people hear this boat before they see it.

The manual describes how to set the levels- DO THAT. Once the levels are set and you find that one set is too loud, DECREASE the level of the louder speaker channels, never boost the channels that aren't loud enough.

POWER CABLE-
Make sure the power cables are appropriate for the load. This amp will draw a lot of current if driven hard, especially if the speaker load is 2 Ohms. If the shop ran 4 ga and it's not more than about 12', you should be OK. If it's heavier, you won't need to worry about the gauge. Find out where they ran the ground cable. If they took the shortest route and attached it to the engine block, it needs to be replaced by a new one that goes directly to the battery's negative post.

Last edited by JimN; 09-09-2012 at 12:46 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-15-2012, 01:18 PM
mzimme's Avatar
mzimme mzimme is offline
MC Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 2006 20' Vdrive
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 5,667
The amp shouldn't need to be turned on manually. There will be a blue "remote" wire coming out of the rear of your head unit, and that wire is a signal wire that runs to the amplifier's "remote" terminal. Whenever your head unit turns on, the amp should automatically power up due to the head unit sending a signal through the remote wire to your amp.

Do not run a power wire from your amplifier to your head unit. The 12v supply your head unit is hooked up to currently should provide plenty of power to keep the thing on. If it's cutting out, I'd suspect you have other issues somewhere. If anything, run a separate power wire from your head unit to your battery (with an in line fuse), but don't connect that wire to your amps (+) terminal.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-15-2012, 01:38 PM
memphis23's Avatar
memphis23 memphis23 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Boat: 1988 190 prostar
Location: south
Posts: 219
thanks

I think I will run a wire with an inline fuse as you suggested. The installer is coming out Thursday I will keep you posted. I hope he is as informed as you
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:03 PM.