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  #11  
Old 05-28-2013, 07:14 PM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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The ECM uses a different temp sensor than the gauge. The sensor the ECM uses is on the starboard head near the rear.

Here is the chart of coolant sensor resistance values:
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File Type: pdf Coolant Sensor Resistance Values.pdf (9.3 KB, 147 views)
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2013, 08:22 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
Alright 88, now you are getting me worried...what are you referring to as prop/hull fouling? Not quite following you...:
Fouling is stuff wrapped up or caught up on the shaft/strut. Places with weeds and such you can actually have the shaft wrapped up.

Every fuel issue I have had either doesn't operate, or runs normal till the fuel gets scarce and cuts off.
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2013, 08:31 PM
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So the Limp Mode makes sense...just need to go down the list of reasons...

Couple things I am going to check based on some searching on this site and comments I received above:

Fuel screen in tank
Fuel filter on back of motor (do not have one above tank but will install soon)
Battery voltage (just got new battery though but hey...)
Cap condition
Rotor condition
Battery cables for heat when boat is running
Anything caught up in the shaft / prop
Thermostat

Seems an MCX had the same issues here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...highlight=limp


I was trying to think of the things that happened this weekend...full tank of 91 octane going out on Saturday...3/4 of a tank going out Sunday. So we had enough gas both days.

One thing that I totally forgot was that at the end of the day Sunday, starting the boat almost made it seem like the battery was dead. All we had on at times were the regular radio (no amps, etc) and the blower...

Where can I get a scanner to plug into the LT1?
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  #14  
Old 05-28-2013, 08:38 PM
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I'd do the temp sensor too. I don't think its too expensive and easy to do.

Don't worry, yours sounds just like mine and definitely not a fun feeling. You'll get it though!
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  #15  
Old 05-28-2013, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
So the Limp Mode makes sense...just need to go down the list of reasons...

Couple things I am going to check based on some searching on this site and comments I received above:

Fuel screen in tank
Fuel filter on back of motor (do not have one above tank but will install soon)
Battery voltage (just got new battery though but hey...)
Cap condition
Rotor condition
Battery cables for heat when boat is running
Anything caught up in the shaft / prop
Thermostat

Seems an MCX had the same issues here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...highlight=limp


I was trying to think of the things that happened this weekend...full tank of 91 octane going out on Saturday...3/4 of a tank going out Sunday. So we had enough gas both days.

One thing that I totally forgot was that at the end of the day Sunday, starting the boat almost made it seem like the battery was dead. All we had on at times were the regular radio (no amps, etc) and the blower...

Where can I get a scanner to plug into the LT1?

Plug is at Michigan motorz http://www.michiganmotorz.com/codema...er-p-2459.html
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  #16  
Old 05-28-2013, 11:36 PM
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Thanks Mike!

One thing I was thinking about tonight...weather was bad out so I was not able to pull the boat out of the garage to start messing around...gut tells me that fuel is not the issue since boat ran great at WOT a number of times...all gauges were within normal operating specs and neither warning light came on...maybe the alternator is going...if it indeed is going, it is deminishing the power of the battery and thus causing the boat to be hard to start and at that point, send the boat into limp mode and cause the rpms to max out at 2000.

Question is whether I need a marine alternator or not...skidim has one for $214.

My ideas make any sense?
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2013, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
Thanks Mike!

One thing I was thinking about tonight...weather was bad out so I was not able to pull the boat out of the garage to start messing around...gut tells me that fuel is not the issue since boat ran great at WOT a number of times...all gauges were within normal operating specs and neither warning light came on...maybe the alternator is going...if it indeed is going, it is deminishing the power of the battery and thus causing the boat to be hard to start and at that point, send the boat into limp mode and cause the rpms to max out at 2000.

Question is whether I need a marine alternator or not...skidim has one for $214.

My ideas make any sense?
What kind of voltage readings are you getting at the alternator? I just checked mine out of curiosity last week and mine was at 14.3 or 14.4 if I recall. Definitely in the 14's. Whereas my volt gauge in my instrument cluster said like 8 or 9 volts (there's an easy fix for this too). Also, what voltage is at the battery?
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  #18  
Old 05-29-2013, 12:03 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Alternators can be rebuilt cheap - I got a guy near Lyons IL if you need one.
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  #19  
Old 05-29-2013, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
Thanks Mike!

One thing I was thinking about tonight...weather was bad out so I was not able to pull the boat out of the garage to start messing around...gut tells me that fuel is not the issue since boat ran great at WOT a number of times...all gauges were within normal operating specs and neither warning light came on...maybe the alternator is going...if it indeed is going, it is deminishing the power of the battery and thus causing the boat to be hard to start and at that point, send the boat into limp mode and cause the rpms to max out at 2000.

Question is whether I need a marine alternator or not...skidim has one for $214.

My ideas make any sense?
I got a powersports marine at NAPA on 59... I paid a bit more but got it same day...

Definitely a marine alternator... it has a brushes seal away to prevent - sparks...

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...5PS_0381521553
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  #20  
Old 05-29-2013, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockman View Post
Alright 88, now you are getting me worried...what are you referring to as prop/hull fouling? Not quite following you...


What should I check for ignition? I pulled the dash forward to install new depth guage but did not touch any other wires...everything was good and tight.
Was 2000RPM running smooth, or ugly? Did you hear anything that was alarming? Did the exhaust smell different? Did you at least open the motor box to check for any problems? If it was running lumpy, you were in RPM reduction, which is usually from overheating (whether real or because a bad sender tells the ECM it's overheating). If it ever does this, DO NOT keep running it! If it's actually overheating, you can ruin the heads.

Check the impeller and make sure the raw water supply is free of any obstructions.

Squeeze the exhaust hoses- if they're very soft, it was overheating.
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