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  #11  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:06 PM
travis351 travis351 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Boat: 2016 NXT Global, Mercury Verado 175
Location: Conch Republic
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My pictures aren't the best and I no longer have the boat...but it is basically this stuff.
https://www.skidim.com/Oil-Coolers_Lines/products/1099/
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  #12  
Old 06-14-2018, 10:32 PM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
Location: Midwest
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Thank you for the pictures and details. I will take a look tomorrow and report back.
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2018, 07:35 PM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
Location: Midwest
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Unfortunately, no leaks there. Looks like pulling the transmission is next. Any idea which gaskets I should order? 1982 MasterCraft S&S 351 Velvet Drive.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2018, 08:24 PM
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paco_06 paco_06 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Boat: 1993 prostar 205 previous 85 S&S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augtober154 View Post
Unfortunately, no leaks there. Looks like pulling the transmission is next. Any idea which gaskets I should order? 1982 MasterCraft S&S 351 Velvet Drive.
First, you need to find the leak to know what to fix. No need in pulling transmission if it's not the front seal. Rear seal can be installed without pulling. If it's dripping out of the bell housing will be a tell tell sign it's the front seal, and it'll only leak while running. It's the front pump seal. Everything else is easily seen. Just clean it up real good, put it in the water and use a white cloth to feel around till you find the leak. Also, no gasket needed for the transmission removal/install. There's just a spacer plate there.

As for the no cranking when warm. Could be timing, check that and also check the advance springs in the distributor. ( do this by turning rotor button and it should spring back). Also if the battery cables are old, this will more than likely be the problem. I had a boat that acted the same way, had to let it cool off before it'd crank again. Starter dragged very bad when warm. This leads to another possibility, the starter.... I've seen them turn well while cold and drag when warm.



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  #15  
Old 06-16-2018, 08:21 AM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
Location: Midwest
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Thanks paco_06. It definitely leaks while just sitting there. I'll clean it up and refill it, let it float, and determine with a white cloth where the leak is coming from while it is sitting in water. I do know that the leak occurs whether it is running or just sitting cold on the lift or trailer. So, just to be clear, you are saying that this is likely the rear seal and I wouldn't have to pull the transmission? Would I need to order a new spacer plate?

Thanks for the info on possible issues with the distributer, battery cables, and starter. I'll look into those. I guess moving to a electronic fuel ignition system would be smart.

Thanks so much for your (and everyone's time) trying to figure this out.
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  #16  
Old 08-08-2018, 03:17 PM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
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Well, thanks again everyone for the help. After attempting the rear seal, the leak was still there. We took the transmission completely off and did the front seal too. So far, no leaks and somehow the other problem hasn't shown itself again (knock on wood!). It's running great!
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:12 AM
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paco_06 paco_06 is offline
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Boat: 1993 prostar 205 previous 85 S&S
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Great! Glad you got it fixed! I'm trying to remember if a ground wire has to be removed to get the transmission out. If so, that's likely where your electrical problem is.

Oh, and your comment on moving to fuel injection above. To each their own, some people like it, but I will say there's about a 2:1 ratio on here of post 1994 problems versus the 1993 and earlier carbed boats. May just be that there's more of them all together, but I'll keep my carb as long as I can

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