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  #21  
Old 05-29-2017, 07:42 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
waterlogged882: Thanks! from what I can see the risers and exhaust manifold look crack free I went around/under them with flashlight and they visually look crack free.

If there are any fine cracks in the heads im sure they will reveal them selves in the form of some problem or another, be that contaminated oil, overheating, or compression issues, for now it looks ok and im hoping no problems crop up when the parts get in.

I got up under the dash with a flashlight looking for a fuse panel, and didnt find one, but looking at where the wires lead, im guessing the breakers next to the steering wheel are taking care of everything that needs protected.

While I was under there I did find the light tower/pole that plugs into the socket at the back of the boat, I also see a couple of speaker boxes with speakers in them and a sony Xplod amplifier, as well as what looks like a very clean heater core.

for the rocker switches to the right... what do the NAV and ANCHOR switches do?
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  #22  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:01 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
Posts: 12,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by jieiku View Post
waterlogged882: Thanks! from what I can see the risers and exhaust manifold look crack free I went around/under them with flashlight and they visually look crack free.

If there are any fine cracks in the heads im sure they will reveal them selves in the form of some problem or another, be that contaminated oil, overheating, or compression issues, for now it looks ok and im hoping no problems crop up when the parts get in.

I got up under the dash with a flashlight looking for a fuse panel, and didnt find one, but looking at where the wires lead, im guessing the breakers next to the steering wheel are taking care of everything that needs protected.

While I was under there I did find the light tower/pole that plugs into the socket at the back of the boat, I also see a couple of speaker boxes with speakers in them and a sony Xplod amplifier, as well as what looks like a very clean heater core.

for the rocker switches to the right... what do the NAV and ANCHOR switches do?
I agree on the breakers. I forget which year they started using the dash breakers but you are correct.

Nav is for all lights to be on (bow and stern) while moving during after dark hours. Anchor is the stern light only (tall wand or light/tower pole as you found) for anchoring during after dark hours.

You're on the right track.

When you go to clean that dash, be careful as to what cleaner you use. Some cleaners have solvents that can wash away the lettering, some don't... just a word of caution before you get anxious and start cleaning....

.
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  #23  
Old 05-30-2017, 05:16 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
I tested the coil on the boat, primary resistance coil is 2 ohms, secondary resistance coil was 8k ohms. now I just need to find what what its supposed to be stock on a Mastercraft skier.

I also tested the ballast resistor on the boat, it measured 1.4 ohms

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  #24  
Old 05-30-2017, 05:52 PM
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Slinkyredfoot Slinkyredfoot is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Boat: 1979 Mastercraft, 1998 ProStar 205
Location: East of Westfield
Posts: 2,089
Can you tell me or did I miss where you got the wood grain MC dash decal? I need a new one.
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  #25  
Old 05-30-2017, 06:02 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinkyredfoot View Post
Can you tell me or did I miss where you got the wood grain MC dash decal? I need a new one.
I did not mention it. That was just a photograph for comparison of a decal gone bad...

I had them made at a decal place near me. Getting just one was not in the cards for the shop. Minimum of one sheet (12 decals) at a premium plus shipping.

Story here with these that I found is that the guy that originally made them back in 197? at MC was in business at the shop and he remembered them well. He had fun making them but sold them by the sheet. Said I was the only person in 25 plus years to ask. Upwards of $75 with shipping and labor. I needed one so that was the deal. I have a few left over. He did a super nice job on them.

I did a lot of work on an 81 I recently completed. The most fun was sourcing all of the parts, like this one. It was a challenge but fun, nonetheless.

I also found decals to put on the facing of old Airguides to make them look brand new. Had to look hard to find these and stumbled across a guy that has it down to the perfect fit.

Found new glass elsewhere online and new grommets for the glass at the local hardware store.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-30-2017 at 06:31 PM.
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  #26  
Old 05-30-2017, 06:09 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jieiku View Post
I tested the coil on the boat, primary resistance coil is 2 ohms, secondary resistance coil was 8k ohms. now I just need to find what what its supposed to be stock on a Mastercraft skier.

I also tested the ballast resistor on the boat, it measured 1.4 ohms
see attached file. This only references you to the maker of the coil for specs but maybe there is something here that will pull it all together.

Those specs seem to ring a bell.
.
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File Type: pdf 351 Ford Ign System Section.pdf (1.21 MB, 276 views)
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  #27  
Old 05-30-2017, 09:28 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
Thanks! According to this post: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...77&postcount=5

I am supposed to have about 2 ohms total, my coil is 2 ohms and my ballast is 1.4 ohms for a total of 3.4

so I am probably in need of a replacement of either the coil, ballast resistor, or both.... if that post is accurate for my motor, still trying to scrounge up more info from more sources.
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  #28  
Old 05-30-2017, 10:29 PM
woodrowskis woodrowskis is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Boat: 2015 Prostar (previous boat 2002 197)
Location: South
Posts: 184
i'll bet the white hose ends in the back with a valve. Some people (including me) run warm water to the platform to ski in cold water , warm the bindings, gloves, wetsuit, etc before jumping in and maybe again coming out. when warm weather comes you hide the hose in the back. when it is cold you snake it out where it is accessible. i did the same. i recommend using if you think you will be in cold water (probably replace with new parts) but you can easily remove and plug if you prefer.
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  #29  
Old 06-02-2017, 08:50 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
Starter and fuel filter kit came in today.

Bad News, I hooked up the starter and did a compression check.

right head:
1: 100
2: 177 (carbon buildup or something?)
3: 123
4: 78 (wet 92)

Left Head:
5: 112
6: 116
7: 117
8: 62 (wet 105)

the rear cylinder on each head that were low compression I did a wet test, they both came up a lot, which means rings problem, I am wondering if it could possibly be stuck ring from sitting, and maybe after running it a bit it could correct, OR I need to go get a new block and start over.

The one that came up to 92 maybe would have came up more if i squirted more oil, think i did a little less on that one. My oiling can squirts a lot of oil on a full squirt so i was trying to do 1/3 squirt and I think I put a little more into the one that came up to 105.

EDIT: Also this was with a cold engine, It still has not been started in 5+ years. before I can try starting it I need to clean the carb and remove and cleanout the gas tank. during this compression test I had the fuel pump unhooked and disconnected from the carb.

I am thinking at this point I should clean the gas tank and carb, put everthing back together and try starting it, and after a few heat cycles see what those cylinders do... if no improvement I can try seafoaming them too, if still no improvement I will pull the engine and go from there.

Edit2: got the fuel tank out, its filthy! gonna clean it up and clean it out. Going to pick up some new fuel lines and heater core hose tomorrow. The heater core hose on it now feels like overcooked spaghetti its way to flexible and squishy.

Edit3: after a bit of reading, I have read that when the 351 gets overheated, its the rear cylinders that get hit the hardest being farther away from the water pump.... so I dont know if the rear rings are acting up from sitting/rusting or if its from overheating and burning up.

Either way, those rear rings are prolly shot if its from rusting or burning up or both. I am going to run the boat through a few heat cycles and seafoam just to be sure, but I can easily see myself having this engine out and on a motor stand soon.
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Last edited by jieiku; 06-03-2017 at 01:16 AM.
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  #30  
Old 06-05-2017, 11:32 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
I worked on putting things back together today so that I can fire it up and see what happens. I got the fuel tank clean inside and out and reinstalled it, I also installed the spin on fuel filter kit.

The tranny fluid looks pink, but kinda looks light/deluted so maybe water did get in there. Its harder to tell than oil which kinda turns milky. So I am going to drain the tranny fluid and put fresh in there.

The carburetor is very gummed/rusted up. The trottle body plates/flappers move, but are very stiff and dont spring closed when you let go of them, they just stay in place. I think the carb needs to be soaked, then dissassembled, then soaked some more. I was thinking of using Evap-O-Rust, but I dont have any first hand experience cleaning/rebuilding a carburetor in such bad shape. It is a Holley 4160 (E0JL-9510-CA) which I am pretty sure is the one most people like to run in these boats.

Also the high compression on the number #2 cylinder could be from a loose rocker arm, bent pushrod, collapsed lifter, or something so I am going to pull the valve cover on that side and check it out.
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