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  #831  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:21 PM
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Fullpass Fullpass is offline
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If you have the older module with the large filter on the bottom of the canister, The rubber grommet in the pic is to secure the the fuel pump inside the module. I have the airtex after market pump and it fits around the bottom nose of the pump, just snug and into the disc at the bottom of the module, everything fits snug. Its an important piece, If you have an after market pump, I would suggest buying the airtex fuel pump, the grommet fits perfect to secure the pump, The airtex pump also comes with a grommet that can be customized to secure the top of the pump, so both top and bottom. Tabs would go towards the pump, probably wouldn't fit tabs down. Don't use radiator clamps, will have problems later with leak down. You can buy an airtex pump for 40/60 bucks. Best really to up grade with a new module from the dealer with new loom. Little out of pocket cash. Lives matter and it could be yours. Airtex is acceptable when installed correctly. Really I don't like the looks of the above the above pump...fit wise. But maybe you have a different module. Have a pic of your module would be helpful.
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  #832  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:44 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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The pump above is my old pump. I purchased an airtex 2044 pump for a replacement on my predator tbi engine.

I will get more photos posted tomorrow of my module. My main question now is with the hose (as I know this is one of the biggest issues). Do I need to match the original hose length to have a bit of a curl in it? I think it's about 9 inches.

I was planning on using worm clamps.
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  #833  
Old 07-18-2018, 08:16 AM
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Best to see if you can use the old fuel pump hose, if it was like my Prostar, one end is bigger than the other, pump has larger ID and pressure regulator has a smaller ID...special hose. I don't think you can buy the hose with the two different ends, find that let us know, best to try and save the old hose. There is a tool that crimps clamps onto the fuel hose everyone likes to use instead of the radiator clamps when putting everything back together: "OETIKER" is the brand, saves a lot of starting issues down the road. The tool can be found on eBay for maybe 25 bucks. Yes, try to restore pump hose length and curl, and position of hose if the new pump allows for it, sometimes new pump, hose may half to be different...more experimental, best to see if everything can be put back like original.
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  #834  
Old 07-18-2018, 11:45 AM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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The only way I think I could reuse the old hose is if I cut off the old fuel pump fitting and put it back in the old hose so the new fuel line has something to clamp onto. Otherwise it would get crushed.

I think another member posted photos of something like this with a fuel assembly.
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  #835  
Old 07-18-2018, 10:19 PM
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Read some people heated~to soften the old hose to remove from the barbs. My old fuel pump hose just slipped off the barbs pretty easy. I was lucky. Depending on module, seems you could just remove the hose from the fuel pump and leave the other end connected to the pressure regulator. without disturbing the connection.
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  #836  
Old 07-18-2018, 10:23 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post
Read some people heated~to soften the old hose to remove from the barbs. My old fuel pump hose just slipped off the barbs pretty easy. I was lucky. Depending on module, seems you could just remove the hose from the fuel pump and leave the other end connected to the pressure regulator. without disturbing the connection.
I tried to heat it with a heat gun and the tubing crackled a bit and didn't loosen it. So whatever was used for my black tubing, it is just a really snug fit. I cannot get the new fuel pump on it. There is absolutely no way it's going on the original tubing. I am going to have to modify it a bit.
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  #837  
Old 07-22-2018, 09:45 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Ok so I took some measurements on different parts of my fuel pump. I have the black smooth thin hose. The hose itself is about .033 inches thick. The original carter fuel pump nozzle is .347inches. The regulator nozzle with the hose still attached is about .336 inches. I am not sure where the .25 (1/4) inch measurement is coming from for the regulator measurement, but it doesn't seem to be the case with mine. Are you supposed to get a fuel line that much smaller? Even if I got a 5/16 ID hose that would be .3125 inches which is still smaller than all of nozzles. The original hose ID I measured to be .21 inches.
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  #838  
Old 07-22-2018, 11:22 PM
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I Know the wall thickness of the fuel line hose is made thin witch gives the fuel line a larger ID for the fuel pump outlet. Same fuel line on the other end has a thicker wall thickness, smaller ID for the fuel regulator...Its a special hose. Maybe you could ask someone here if they have an older module to obtain the correct hose.
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  #839  
Old 07-23-2018, 10:08 PM
izobaric izobaric is offline
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Does the airtex e2044 have a ball bearing rattle when shook? I have a bad leak somewhere. I ve changed the pump after the original went out. Ive also changed the regulator. I'm thinking something must be wrong with the pump.

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  #840  
Old 07-23-2018, 10:23 PM
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On the pump outlet there is a anti drain back valve/seat, I do believe...just inside the top of the pump outlet which the fuel line hose attaches too. The anti drain back valve seat might be making a light metal tapping sound...when seating/unseating...if its a loud ball bearing rattle dono. Most leaks occur when using radiator clamps or if the non original fuel line hose is not used. Oetiker clamps work best with the Oetiker crimping hand tool. I actually put two Oetiker clamps on the pump, and two on the fuel pressure regulator..Boat starts/runs so nice.
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