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  #191  
Old 04-16-2018, 12:22 AM
mbwtrpolo mbwtrpolo is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Boat: '96 Mastercraft Maristar 225VRS
Location: Northwest
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by manowicki View Post
. Here's a drilled T-stat pic 4 u
Hello Manowicki, I have a 96 Maristar 225VRS and I only have the fuel filter after the fuel pump. My last Volvo Penta I/O had a nice spin-on fuel/water separator before the fuel pump. You mentioned that you put a fuel filter before your fuel pump, what did you use/how did you configure that? Could you shoot me or post a picture of what you did for a filter before the pump? I’d sure rather have the filter before the pump rather than after on a 22 year old boat! Thanks!
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  #192  
Old 04-16-2018, 08:51 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Posts: 13,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbwtrpolo View Post
Hello Manowicki, I have a 96 Maristar 225VRS and I only have the fuel filter after the fuel pump. My last Volvo Penta I/O had a nice spin-on fuel/water separator before the fuel pump. You mentioned that you put a fuel filter before your fuel pump, what did you use/how did you configure that? Could you shoot me or post a picture of what you did for a filter before the pump? I’d sure rather have the filter before the pump rather than after on a 22 year old boat! Thanks!
Find your fuel tank- it should have a filter near it. The second one is for catching anything that gets by.
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  #193  
Old 07-15-2018, 01:18 PM
glasswater glasswater is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: Mastercraft prostar 210 1993 Corvette LT-1
Location: Midwest
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN
Quote:
Originally Posted by glasswater
Can you just call me at 2623704005.

--- heres my story ---

1993 LT1 Fore firing into intake

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a 1993 Mastercraft prostar 205 with the corvette multi port injection, I have replaced the engine (everything else as well) after my engine was frozen and cracked. Prior to the block cracking it was already fore firing. There was not a significant event that had made it start fore firing, it just did one day. We had hoped that by replacing the engine that if it was a mechanical problem (Cam, lifters, valves, or intake manifold) it would have worked. It did not, exactly the same problem. Idles great and only "pops" at 3,000 rpm & higher. Timing light gets dimmer and jumps around at the 3000 rpm as well.
Anyone know how I can fix this?

I have put in New Fuel pump twice, fuel filters, Intake manifold, 8 injectors, spark plugs & wires, 4 ignition coils, Ignition control module, ECM, Throttle positioning sensor (TPS), (Map) Manifold air pressure sensor -three times, three temperature sensors -many times, knock sensor, thermostats, water recirculating & Seawater pickup pumps, crankshaft positioning sensors, Engine wiring harness with all relays-Indmar had 1 harness left, (IAC) Idle air control Motor, oil pressure sensor... I'm sure I’m forgetting to mention something!

I have replaced EVERYTHING BUT:
The Reluctor Wheel
Generator/alternator -I did have it out & tested twice
MEFI 1 ECU Computer

So, help me! I can't find a mefi 1 computer. I did send it out to OBD diagnostics in California who has flashed it & installed updated info with no changes -have exactly the same results. So if anyone has any of them, let me know and I hope we could work something out. I'm also suspecting the reluctor wheel as it has a very small chip out of it. Yeah... Just very frustrated!
The alternator or reluctor wheel wouldn't cause this. Do a cylinder leakdown test to see if you have a valve hanging up.

What made you replace all of those parts? Did you test everything, first? Have you scanned for codes? Did you re-check the firing order? If the coil packs have been moved around, it's possible that this is questionable.
Did a compression test & Found one cylinder head had zero compression pull the head and found a hole in the piston… Complete engine rebuild now and breaking in new engine but having issues with the temperature climbing to high. I have seen on another thread something about reworking the plumbing to solve the issue ?
Can someone direct me to the Service bulletin on how to replumb the cooling lines from the aluminum heads?
Jon
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  #194  
Old 07-18-2018, 09:38 AM
Jorski Jorski is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1993 190 with LT1
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,508
The Service Bulletin is on page 2 of this thread

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...t=31626&page=2
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  #195  
Old 07-21-2018, 01:49 PM
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teddy teddy is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 1993 ProStar 190 25th Anniversary Limited Edition LT1 Power Slot
Location: North West
Posts: 151
There is a complete PDF of the TSB with post 110 of this thread.
__________________
Current Boat:
1993 ProStar 25th Anniversary Limited Edition

Previous Boats:
2000 Ski Nautique
1992 Pro Star 190
1990 Pro Star 190
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  #196  
Old 11-02-2018, 03:48 PM
krestle
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Posts: n/a
I have a 95 Prostar with an LT-1 with 850 hrs on it. The previous owner of 15 years said that the boat has always run cool (between 140-150 degrees is the warmest she ever got). I figured the 160 thermostat was stuck open for some reason. Replaced it and noticed that the bleed holes were pretty huge, at least 1/4". After replacing with a new drilled 160 from skidim she ran at about 165 at 3500 RPM and idle. I was pleased and took her up to 4000 RPM for a short 10 minute ride and when I stopped with the motor still running I got a huge heat spike. Creeped up to 180 and was climbing. At 200 I shut things off and let it cool down for about 45 minutes. When I restarted temps normalized and ran 160 consistently back to the ramp. I figure I had air trapped around the heads for it to climb so quickly. I purchased all the parts listed in post 110 for about $50 and had no issue moving my plumbing to the front (front plugs came out without an issue, just capped the plumbing from the back). Additionally I cleaned the transmission cooler screen which had a moderate amount of plant material on it. Taking her out for a test drive this afternoon and hope to have nice steady temps at 160 degrees. If it is still running hot or has heat spikes I am going to drill the 1/8" bleed holes on the thermostat I bought from skidim up a size. I wanted to make a post since others have mentioned this repair might be too risky to consider doing and have suggested just drilling the thermostat bleed holes bigger. For me everything seemed to come together how it should on my 23 year old boat.
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  #197  
Old 11-02-2018, 09:45 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by krestle View Post
I have a 95 Prostar with an LT-1 with 850 hrs on it. The previous owner of 15 years said that the boat has always run cool (between 140-150 degrees is the warmest she ever got). I figured the 160 thermostat was stuck open for some reason. Replaced it and noticed that the bleed holes were pretty huge, at least 1/4". After replacing with a new drilled 160 from skidim she ran at about 165 at 3500 RPM and idle. I was pleased and took her up to 4000 RPM for a short 10 minute ride and when I stopped with the motor still running I got a huge heat spike. Creeped up to 180 and was climbing. At 200 I shut things off and let it cool down for about 45 minutes. When I restarted temps normalized and ran 160 consistently back to the ramp. I figure I had air trapped around the heads for it to climb so quickly. I purchased all the parts listed in post 110 for about $50 and had no issue moving my plumbing to the front (front plugs came out without an issue, just capped the plumbing from the back). Additionally I cleaned the transmission cooler screen which had a moderate amount of plant material on it. Taking her out for a test drive this afternoon and hope to have nice steady temps at 160 degrees. If it is still running hot or has heat spikes I am going to drill the 1/8" bleed holes on the thermostat I bought from skidim up a size. I wanted to make a post since others have mentioned this repair might be too risky to consider doing and have suggested just drilling the thermostat bleed holes bigger. For me everything seemed to come together how it should on my 23 year old boat.
My gut tells me that the clogged oil filter had a lot to do with the temperature spike but remember- 180 degrees is not a spike, nor is 200, unless it increases a lot over a very short period of time. I would also check the impeller- if the oil cooler was clogged for any length of time, the impeller could be damaged.
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  #198  
Old 11-03-2018, 09:54 AM
manowicki manowicki is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: MC PS 190, 1993, LT1
Location: rky mtns
Posts: 34
There us no eng oil cooler. The cooleer screen is the tranny oil cooler. 180-200 is too hot for alum heads. If ur course skiing, u'll prob never see heat spikes due to truncated run times. Run WOT for 10-15mins across a lake and shut down to get ur gear on and u'll see heat spike and may even hear the steam popping. OEM designed 160 T-stat with additional holes for a reason. The answer may indeed be drilling bigger holes to prevent heat spikes depending on how u run. It should NOT heat up past ~170 upon shutdown with 160 design. My T-stat has larger than 1/4" twin holes (can't remember exact size, (thats Y i marked on flange itself). Mine now never goes past 170 upon shutdown and we can be hooligans and run as hard as we please and more importantly, I can let some noobie drive that i know will not what the guages.
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  #199  
Old 11-03-2018, 10:01 AM
manowicki manowicki is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: MC PS 190, 1993, LT1
Location: rky mtns
Posts: 34
Real time running temps courtesy of DIACOM software.
Attached Images
  
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  #200  
Old 11-03-2018, 03:02 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manowicki View Post
There us no eng oil cooler. The cooleer screen is the tranny oil cooler. 180-200 is too hot for alum heads. If ur course skiing, u'll prob never see heat spikes due to truncated run times. Run WOT for 10-15mins across a lake and shut down to get ur gear on and u'll see heat spike and may even hear the steam popping. OEM designed 160 T-stat with additional holes for a reason. The answer may indeed be drilling bigger holes to prevent heat spikes depending on how u run. It should NOT heat up past ~170 upon shutdown with 160 design. My T-stat has larger than 1/4" twin holes (can't remember exact size, (thats Y i marked on flange itself). Mine now never goes past 170 upon shutdown and we can be hooligans and run as hard as we please and more importantly, I can let some noobie drive that i know will not what the guages.
RPM reduction doesn’t kick in until 200 degreesF- how is 180 “too hot”? In AZ and other places where the air temperature is high, they had a separate calibration that set RPM reduction at about 220 degrees.

That’s not saying there’s no effect from higher temperature but if Aluminum heads were so easily affected by such slight temperature changes, that material wouldn’t be used.
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