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Old 07-01-2018, 11:22 AM
rossi_the_heeler rossi_the_heeler is offline
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Boat: 1994 Prostar 205
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Ď94 Prostar 205 Fuel Pump-Replacement!?

Hi fellas,
Been chasing a hot stall condition on another thread that I didnít want to bring back from the dead. On JimNís advice I checked codes and got a code 42. My brother in law is a GM mechanic and he replied ďyep replaced hundreds of those ignition modules!Ē So I replaced it (the one that was in there was pretty beat up). NO CHANGE. Dang.
Brought it to the lake and after a couple high speed laps docked it for about a half hour and tried to restart it while at the dock. As per usual it started right up then idles for about 90 seconds and then dies. Then it will not restart for about 15 min or so. Keeping the cover open seems to help it start faster.
I installed a pressure gauge test port after the pump a few weeks back and Iíve been watching it work for some time now (driveway starts mostly). Upon keyup, I Usually hear the pump spin and I see 10 psi on the gauge for a few seconds (it quickly dissipates after 2-3 seconds). If I turn the key to start, the motor starts and pressure is a steady 10 psi.
YESTERDAYówhen it stalled, I watched the pressure gauge. Key up, I could hear the pump spin, but gauge psi stayed 0 psi. I could crank and crank and the needle on my gauge never moved. Fifteen min later with the clamshell up at the dock, I tried it again and the needle fluttered off 0 and the motor coughs to life.

Iíve checked/ replaced the ect, and taken the pump out once already (didnít find anything of significance in the inlet). Fuel filters have been changed (I have a 94 so it has that spin on water separator filter also), gas looks good, I put it in a mason jar for 15 min to see any separation or impurities. I did change my thermostat back to a 160 from a 143 on JimNís recommendation, and the temperature on the gauge never goes above 160 even during the stall/heat soak.
Both of these attached videos are after it had stalled and I waited for about 20 min and it restarted.
Fuel pump failing when it gets hot?
If so, does anyone have a lead on a good replacement part? Iím about at the end of the rope my wife has given me to figure this out...
Thanks in advance guys I truly appreciate your time!
Attached Files
File Type: mov 07770AE3-0041-4C33-AC79-1808F0BE2548.MOV (3.37 MB, 26 views)
File Type: mov D865B2A0-B1F0-4EFC-A93A-7B8615E30DE9.MOV (7.83 MB, 8 views)
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2018, 01:44 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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That screamin' coming from fuel pump? If so, its about toast.

10 psi is correct for most tbi's some run at 30psi.



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Old 07-01-2018, 01:58 PM
rossi_the_heeler rossi_the_heeler is offline
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Yes it is coming from the pump.
Am I best to go with carter p5001 ?
These things are like GOLD. Like 500$ for a new one!
I saw your post from 2 years ago and they were 40 bucks...
Story of my life!
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:43 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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You can go with a carter p5000 about 70 bucks
. Its a marine pump. You will just have to plug the vapor portion of return line. For 10psi you could even go with a lesser psi marine fuel pump. The dual inlet pumps are no longer available. I think rockauto got the last of them.

The old vapor return was to let vapor lock pressure to be released back to return line. At least that is what i was told.



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Old 07-01-2018, 05:20 PM
rossi_the_heeler rossi_the_heeler is offline
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Thanks Mike!
Iím in page 48 of the fuel pump 101 sticky. These all seem to be based around the in-tank pump... right?
Itís not practical for me to make that switch... or is it actually better?
Thanks for taking time for my problems.
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:54 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Just replace external pump with single inlet.
Block off additional vapor return




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Old 07-02-2018, 09:10 PM
Ifly3 Ifly3 is offline
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Mine did the same thing,change the magnetic reluctor in the distibutor,I havent had a hard start since,after a while I bought a complete distributor from pep
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:15 PM
rossi_the_heeler rossi_the_heeler is offline
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Ifly, where is the reluctor wheel in a tbi 5.7? If I need to remove the distributor to see it, is it a huge job? I’m trying to cover all bases. Fixed my fuel pump this past weekend but still had a hot stall condition...
Thanks !!
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Old 07-07-2018, 10:03 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossi_the_heeler View Post
Ifly, where is the reluctor wheel in a tbi 5.7? If I need to remove the distributor to see it, is it a huge job? Iím trying to cover all bases. Fixed my fuel pump this past weekend but still had a hot stall condition...
Thanks !!
Its inside the dizzy under rotor.. the culprit could be a dying module... you have to pull distributor off and dissemble shaft to pull reluctor. You have to check base timing after pulling and reinstalling distributor

You should also check resistance on pickup coil. Low failure rate part unless there was an over heat. If you never refreshed ignition parts.. you may want to start with new plugs , wires, coil, and module. And check base timing.

I would replace module first if you never changed it.. i switched to 160 tstat and got hot start issues so went back to 143.. problems went away.

You could also have a flakey relay.. that fails when it gets hot.

Have you checked to see if you have any codes in ecu?

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Old 07-08-2018, 09:52 AM
rossi_the_heeler rossi_the_heeler is offline
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I have refreshed some ignition parts, ignition module (had a code 42) ignition coil, plugs distributor cap/rotor. Iím checking today for some more codes. Iím also going to check for any weird/bad grounds while Iím under there.
Had a great 4th with the fam and it ran really well EXCEPT 1 time when I shut it off while we were untangling ropes. Then was the no start. However this time I had fuel pressure (new pumpóTHANKS MIKEG for the guidance!) p5001 with a compression cap for the vapor return worked well!
Itís a process, and Iím not giving up on this baby.
Thanks everyone!
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