Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Audio/Stereo

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-11-2018, 11:59 PM
lj_mastercraft lj_mastercraft is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 2005 X-45 w/L18
Location: southwest
Posts: 370
Audio issues - clipping, voltage, etc... need help.

Hi,

New audio install, and having some problems the first time I used it (today).
The first hour and a half I didn't notice any issues, but I never really turned it up too loud. Engine ran for at least 1/3 of that time.

When I did turn it up, the rev10s are 'clipping'. Amplifier status light goes from green to orange for a second or two, as you can see in the below video.

Note that this isn't even turned up that loud. Head unit is at 50-60%, and the 'master' volume on the wetsounds EQ is right at 50%. The tower zone is turned all the way up, but this happens even the tower EQ zone is at 50%.

Video that shows the issue:
https://youtu.be/QrH7DVtNvwI


The amperage reading doesn't seem right at all, so don't base anything on that.

The setup is as follows:
- Older Rockford Fosgate amp that drives a 12" subwoofer under the steering wheel (it's turned all the way down)
- Fusion head unit and remotes
- Wetsounds SYN DX6 amp that drives the 4x cabin speakers and a Wetsounds REVO 10 subwoofer
- JL Audio HD750/1 amp that drives the two REV10s
- Wetsounds EQ that controls everything. The Fusion head unit has everything coming out of Zone 1 into the EQ. The 'sub' zone splits out of the EQ - one goes into the Rockford amp, the other goes into ch5-6 of the SynDX6 amp for the Wetsounds 10" sub.

Now I realize I only have two regular car batteries at the moment - but while I know this means I won't get much playtime, I thought I'd at least be able to play them 'loud' for 10 minutes.

Some pictures of the HD750/1 cabling:





Back in my prime (15 years ago) I was smart enough to calculate impedence, etc. but I'm too dumb now. Could it be the REV10s are not hooked up correctly? Was thinking they should be bridged in parallel right? (Both positives to the two rev10s going into the far left terminal, and both negatives to the two rev10s going into the far right terminal)



Thought it might be a voltage issue. Connected the perko switch battery selector to 'all' (so both batteries are selected)

With engine off and audio system off:


With engine on (within 5-6 seconds of starting):


With engine on (within 10 seconds of starting, and manually revving the engine up to 1300 RPM)


This strikes me as odd, as I'd thought with the engine running the voltage would be higher - 13V or more - but it's not. Possible the alternator only provide a charge when the engine is at a much higher RPM? I didn't want to take the engine RPM that high out of water on just a hose, but I could certainly test it later this week.

Open to suggestions, things I should look into, etc.
Again, just to be clear, I'm not suggesting that I expect to be able to play this system at full blast, 100% volume, for 6 hours, but even with these two car batteries I'd thought I should at least be able to turn them up for a few minutes. The fact it's clipping when head unit, equalizer master, AND the 'zone' on the equalizer are all set to 50% is discouraging
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:09 AM
tr6coug's Avatar
tr6coug tr6coug is online now
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Boat: Mastercraft 2007 X2 MCX
Location: OR
Posts: 841
That 8.7v is strange with the engine idling. It should be 13-14v even at idle especially without the audio system on.

Are your amps getting too hot. I just replace an amp that would sound fine for a while but then distort after it got hot.
__________________
'07 Navy Blue X2 MCX
http://www.wakeblaster.com/
Ballast Timer Reprogramming Info
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:30 AM
lj_mastercraft lj_mastercraft is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 2005 X-45 w/L18
Location: southwest
Posts: 370
Not hot at all. This was a cool day, and the amps were lukewarm to the touch. This clipping happened even after everything being off for 45 min

At one point during the day when I started the engine I noticed the chain speakers stopped working. Wet sounds amp was flashing red in a combination I didn't recognize. Turned the head unit off and back on again and it came on just fine with no further issues so I didn't think much of it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-12-2018, 03:03 AM
tr6coug's Avatar
tr6coug tr6coug is online now
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Boat: Mastercraft 2007 X2 MCX
Location: OR
Posts: 841
Yeah, I think you have a wiring problem. Maybe a positive power lead shorting to ground somewhere dragging the voltage down or possibly a bad component. Have you blown any fuses?

I would start by disconnecting power to components one at a time until you see the voltage stabilize.
__________________
'07 Navy Blue X2 MCX
http://www.wakeblaster.com/
Ballast Timer Reprogramming Info
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-12-2018, 09:45 AM
MLA MLA is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2012
Boat: pontoon
Location: Lake Wylie Area
Posts: 1,504
Quote:
other goes into ch5-6 of the SynDX6 amp for the Wetsounds 10" sub.
This is a 4 ohm woofer, correct?

Those 2 + and - terminals of the 750/1 are parallel inside the amp, so thats not the issue. Its certainly looking like a voltage issue, but the amp tuning can also make an amp go into protect mode.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-12-2018, 09:47 AM
MC25's Avatar
MC25 MC25 is online now
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Boat: 2016 X30, 85 S&S
Location: Grapevine, Texas
Posts: 14,788
Too small of power wire? Looks like 8 gauge. Weird about the idling voltage. How old are the batteries?
__________________
-Aric

LONE STAR MASTERBASH 2018!!!!!!

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...30#post1417530

2016 X30-Wetsounds galore
2017 Misty Harbor Tri-Toon
1985 S&S- Gone but never forgotten
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-12-2018, 09:55 AM
lj_mastercraft lj_mastercraft is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 2005 X-45 w/L18
Location: southwest
Posts: 370
Yes I believe the revo10 is a 4 ohm sub

Haven't blown any fuses

Batteries were both replaced around October of last year. The alternator is also brand new.
I keep a trickle charger/maintainer on the batteries when the boat is not in use
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-12-2018, 10:13 AM
lj_mastercraft lj_mastercraft is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 2005 X-45 w/L18
Location: southwest
Posts: 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by MC25 View Post
Too small of power wire? Looks like 8 gauge. Weird about the idling voltage. How old are the batteries?
I thought I was 4, but it might be 8, I will check tomorrow. I know that wetsounds fuse/distribution block is rated for 4/8 gauge but I'm not sure which
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-12-2018, 02:10 PM
MLA MLA is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2012
Boat: pontoon
Location: Lake Wylie Area
Posts: 1,504
Is that voltage reading on the house battery? Is this with the new switch/bank scheme in place or the original? Wasnt there a red box battery thingy with no label in there? is that still intact? Need to work backward with the volt meter till you find acceptable alternator output voltage.

Id does look like 8ga feeding the 750, but unless the runs are long, im not too worried about at this mount. Other things higher on my list.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-12-2018, 04:24 PM
lj_mastercraft lj_mastercraft is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2016
Boat: 2005 X-45 w/L18
Location: southwest
Posts: 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA View Post
Is that voltage reading on the house battery? Is this with the new switch/bank scheme in place or the original? Wasnt there a red box battery thingy with no label in there? is that still intact? Need to work backward with the volt meter till you find acceptable alternator output voltage.

Id does look like 8ga feeding the 750, but unless the runs are long, im not too worried about at this mount. Other things higher on my list.
It is an 8ga feeding the 750, but out of the distribution block it's about 10" before it connects into the 750
The distribution block is fed by 4ga from the Perko battery switch to the wetsounds distr block

Don't pay attention to my other thread - the 'new' battery scheme is not implemented yet. This is the original setup - two batteries with a perko switch. Alternator goes to what appears to be a box that allows both batteries to charge regardless which one is selected on the perko.

Took the boat out today (i'm actually still on it - writing this from the boat)
Did another test earlier in the afternoon and voltage was 13.4-13.5 from the alternator. Just did it a second time an hour and a half later (now), and here's what I got.

Here are the current results. This is with the perko switch selecting BOTH batteries.
- Engine off, audio system off, resting voltage: 12.3v
- Engine off, audio system on (playing at 30% volume, the maximum I can play before the REV10s start clipping): 12.1v
- Engine on, audio system off, idle at 700 RPM: 12.2v
- Engine on, audio system off, 3000 RPM: 12.2v
- Engine on, audio system on (playing at 30% volume): 12.2v
- Engine on, audio system on (playing at 30% volume) voltage at alternator charging post connection (the connection on the ALC looking box that goes straight to the alternator): -0.01v


...seems to indicate the alternator isn't doing jack.
Are these alternators regulated internally or externally? There's a plug that goes from the engine harness into the alternator. It seems to be a good tight connection. Weird that earlier today the alternator was charging.

Last edited by lj_mastercraft; 04-12-2018 at 04:52 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:12 PM.


2018