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Old 10-09-2018, 02:48 PM
uplandbird uplandbird is online now
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Light winterization

Here in Kansas City I store my boat over the winter in a series of underground caves that are now massive storage facilities. Ive had great luck with this company in the past. Drop it off perfect, pick it up months later and it doesn't have a flake of dust on it. 64 Degrees in those caves year round.

So I don't need to do a full winterization.

I do like to get the lake water out of the engine block though. Don't want it to sit in there for months. Not because it will freeze (it wont) but just because I think it is best to have it out.

Is that as simple as removing the engine drain plugs?

With the semi closed system I'm wondering if I need to do more?
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Old 10-09-2018, 02:57 PM
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Dan2060 Dan2060 is online now
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Would like to know as well

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Old 10-09-2018, 04:06 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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On the Ilmor's you'll remove the knock sensors which bolt to the drain plugs on each side of the engine, then remove the drain plugs. this will drain the block. If you're looking to get all (or at least most) of the water out of the cooling system you'll also remove the hoses from the ends of the exhaust manifolds, this will drain the manifolds. The last place would be between the strainer and the trans cooler. Removing the hose at the trans cooler will drain the water from the strainer downstream and any water between the trans cooler and the raw water pump upstream.

If you're not going to replace the impeller I'd suggest pulling the hose off the bottom of the impeller housing to drain any water from that area. If you are changing the impeller the water should drain out when you remove the impeller housing cover.
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:08 PM
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Dan2060 Dan2060 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
On the Ilmor's you'll remove the knock sensors which bolt to the drain plugs on each side of the engine, then remove the drain plugs. this will drain the block. If you're looking to get all (or at least most) of the water out of the cooling system you'll also remove the hoses from the ends of the exhaust manifolds, this will drain the manifolds. The last place would be between the strainer and the trans cooler. Removing the hose at the trans cooler will drain the water from the strainer downstream and any water between the trans cooler and the raw water pump upstream.

If you're not going to replace the impeller I'd suggest pulling the hose off the bottom of the impeller housing to drain any water from that area. If you are changing the impeller the water should drain out when you remove the impeller housing cover.
Pics?

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  #5  
Old 10-09-2018, 04:32 PM
Jonb1822 Jonb1822 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uplandbird View Post
Here in Kansas City I store my boat over the winter in a series of underground caves that are now massive storage facilities. Ive had great luck with this company in the past. Drop it off perfect, pick it up months later and it doesn't have a flake of dust on it. 64 Degrees in those caves year round.

So I don't need to do a full winterization.

I do like to get the lake water out of the engine block though. Don't want it to sit in there for months. Not because it will freeze (it wont) but just because I think it is best to have it out.

Is that as simple as removing the engine drain plugs?

With the semi closed system I'm wondering if I need to do more?


With the newer Ilmor GDI engines you should be fine removing the marked yellow plugs.

The plugs on both sides of engine
The plug for the transmission cooler
The plug at the end of the drain hose on the stb side which will drain the strainer and so on.


Everything is marked yellow. Should take you no time at all.

Last edited by Jonb1822; 10-10-2018 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:41 PM
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kscrib kscrib is offline
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Is there a bigger danger of rust from air than there is from skunky lake water?
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2018, 08:01 PM
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moosehead moosehead is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonb1822 View Post
With the newer Ilmor GDI engines you should be fine removing the marked yellow plugs.

The plugs on both sides of the engine for the block
The plug for the transmission cooler
The plug at the end of the drain hose on the stb side which will drain the strainer and so on.


Everything is marked yellow. Should take you no time at all.
This ease of accessibility and marked plugs seemed like one of the nicest upgrades of the most recent gen powerplants.

On the earlier gen Ilmors, it is really not much more difficult to drain everything, just a bit more contortionist maneuvers to get down to the lower block drain plugs/tubes and more elbow grease to remove strainer cup vs downstream plug on the new engines. I also bump over the starter a few times to clear water from the impeller housing.

We will get in a few late October sessions in between freeze nights by simply draining everything. Air does not freeze. I can now get our '15 drained dry in 5-10 minutes excluding pink which I leave for final hibernation. Yea, that's what she said.
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Old 10-10-2018, 12:47 PM
Alan-S Alan-S is offline
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No. Please do not comment if you do not understand what engine the person has. The OP has a 6000GDI engine. There is no lake water in his engine block. If he were to pull the block plugs, it would drain ANTIFREEZE in his bilge and onto the ground.

UPLANDBIRD, consult your engine owner's manual, there is a simple 3 step process to draining your water pump, manifolds, and heat exchanger.
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  #9  
Old 10-10-2018, 01:07 PM
shotz__21 shotz__21 is offline
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Pics of these storage facilities? Or name so we can check them out? Sounds cool

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  #10  
Old 10-10-2018, 01:17 PM
Guestuser123 Guestuser123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan-S View Post
No. Please do not comment if you do not understand what engine the person has. The OP has a 6000GDI engine. There is no lake water in his engine block. If he were to pull the block plugs, it would drain ANTIFREEZE in his bilge and onto the ground.

UPLANDBIRD, consult your engine owner's manual, there is a simple 3 step process to draining your water pump, manifolds, and heat exchanger.
Couldnt agree more...
I would love to see these "Block plugs" Everyone is talking about on the GDI's...
There is no "Block plugs" only exhaust manifold plugs, transmission plug and a hose off the impeller housing.

But hey if your willing to risk a $20,000 engine cause you didn't do it right or read the wrong post it will be a real crappy spring when water is shooting out of the engine due to freezing.
I love all the winterization posts telling people how to winterize but the majority forget to mention the heater lines and having to blow them out to prevent heater core being cracked on the non-GDI engines lol

Would love to see pics of this Cave sounds pretty cool!!
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