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  #11  
Old 10-16-2017, 09:16 PM
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Never fogged my outboard, I figured there was oil mixed with the gas????

Not sure why I fog my inboard, when the current fogging can is empty I probably will not buy another.
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2017, 10:21 PM
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i fog each cylinder and then crank it a few times with the lanyard out. i don't pull the air intake/arrester and fog that way. i do it for my 2s jet ski's but i've heard that it can damage the sensors on the way to the LTR motor. off hand, i think the TPS and the IAC are right there at the air intake. probably overkill, but isn't that what MCOCD is?
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  #13  
Old 10-17-2017, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Footin View Post
Never fogged my outboard, I figured there was oil mixed with the gas????

Not sure why I fog my inboard, when the current fogging can is empty I probably will not buy another.
Yes gas and oil are mixed. The problem on a 2 smoke is that the crank is not in an oil bath. Gas will wash oil off so to me that gas and oil mix ....... well the gas is washing everything clean.
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  #14  
Old 10-17-2017, 09:40 AM
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It may not be necessary, but I pull the lanyard, open the throttle plate, and I have the wife crank the engine for about 10 seconds while I spray fogger down the TB. A little extra lubrication is always good…IMO.
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  #15  
Old 10-17-2017, 10:27 AM
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This comes up every year - IMO this is legacy thinking & I too have completed the task with every method. I think this falls under the same argument as 1/4 tank fuel - Full tank fuel as well as how to run the engine off the lake - fake a lake - Perko Flush Pro - Bucket Method

As posted in other "Winterization Threads"

I use Starbrite gasoline Stabilizer - With Corrosion Inhibitors (Same stuff my dealer uses) Easy, dump it in at the beginning of the process - DONE

I go with the 1/4 tank Fuel - Less to stabilize, one, if for some reason the gas goes bad, less to dispose of, two - First run in the spring, I add a full tank of fresh 93 octane - Never had an issue so far

My boat has the factory installed flush kit - which is a Perko flush Pro - just with a hose bib connection on the transom - It gets plenty of water, never overheated running on it in 5 years - as a matter of fact, I have to run the RPM's up to 1500 to get her up to temp!

So there you have it according to MattsCraft -

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  #16  
Old 10-17-2017, 10:57 AM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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Boat, motorcycles, cars, tractors, ATV's, chainsaws, and on and on and on... My rule is if it sits for 8 months or less I don't worry about it.. if I know it is going to sit longer then I start it at 6 months and run it... drive it for at least a 1/2 hour.. remember there are transmission parts and seals that need lubrication.. the worst part is the gas, I keep as little as possible if I know it is going to sit.. then add fresh non ethanol with stabilizer and run it.. If it goes over a year then I siphon the gas and put in fresh... I try and run a full tank of gas through every item once a year.. that is hard with the tractors though....
My 1952 Allis Chalmers has never been rebuilt so I feel confident in my ways....

Last edited by curver900; 10-17-2017 at 11:31 AM.
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  #17  
Old 10-17-2017, 12:10 PM
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always fun to talk about when you can't go boating or skiing cuz it's getting cold. I keep my 205 in the garage. Ambient humidity is what makes me fog.

after a cold snap as we all know things get cold... -- its right after when you get a 75 degree in February for a day or 2 - the motor gets a nice coating of condensation on it - this last feb it was actually dripping a little bit... with my TBI and wet intake I know that condensation is in the intake as well. I tape off the tank vent as well.

This lets me sleep at night - or hibernate mid nov - april..
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