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  #11  
Old 06-24-2013, 08:10 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by chrislandy View Post
Right, dragging the thread from the depths but I've just got back from France testing the boat.

Symptoms:
Engine fine when started from cold
When coldish i.e. when the guage isn't registering it won't rev (in or out of gear) past 2600
When warm, you can barely get it over a fast idle @ 1200rpm or 20kph

For example, when coldish I had it up to 2600rpm / 40kph and tried to go faster, it either carried on the same or "choked" and bogged down.

I've changed the CTS at the rear under the manifold
The temp guage when hot is 62degC or about 145degF
I've cleaned all the earths at the front and the rear of the engine
I'm getting 5v at the MAP and TPS loom power
I've taken off the fuel pipe and blown it through (no debris of blockages)
I've taken off the fuel pump and checked for blockages (none)

It took a while to work out why the engine light wasn't coming on, MC UK put a recon engine in before we bought it and had cut the wire by the looks of it as the white connector at the back of the engine didn't have a wire coming from it (never did by the looks of it as the bungs were in both terminals) and the pink/black or pink/blue wire was just floating around the engine bay!

Anyway now the engine light works, the ECU throws up codes 22 and 33

22 - TPS too low?
33 - MAP too high?

Are these both past their best? I didn't manage to get a voltage reading from them though as I only got the engine light working 2hrs before I had to leave.

Chris
IIRC, those sensors share their ground- check the ground connections at their attachment points on the block, clean and tighten the battery cables/posts and see if it improves.

A diagnostic computer has a screen that shows the voltage, as seen by the ECM. This is a critical piece of info and can't be found anywhere else. I found a few that had flaky grounds- measured anywhere on the engine or at the battery, it looked fine but the ECM didn't agree with that.

Your measurement of 5VDC at the sensors is only part of the story- you need to measure from the ground wire in the harness to the battery negative post. Not the cable end, not the block, but the battery post. All voltage references should be made with the meter connected to the negative battery post. Don't open the wire loom and strip the tape unless you see evidence of melting from an overheat. If you see melted wire loom and wires, your harness needs to be repaired and this will cause many problems.

Unplug the TPS and see if it runs better.

Last edited by JimN; 06-24-2013 at 08:20 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-22-2014, 10:56 AM
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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Boat: '96 205 TBI
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15 months on I finally got back out to the boat!!!

We cleaned up every ground terminal on the block and battery, scotchbrited,de-greased and put back together.

Wired up the check engine light properly!

Took the fuel pump off again, stripped all the fittings and cleaned up the gauze filter (about 1/2in of crud build up! - no wonder it wasn't running properly!)

Put it all back together only to find the starter had seized! - 1hr getting 2 bolt undone we stripped and rebuild the starter as best as we could but the solenoid just won't let the current through so it's probably corroded internally but we got it back together and did the old screwdriver hotwire to get it running.....

Success - well kind of!

No check engine light! Woohoo! The bogging when hot has gone away but is running a bit lumpy - most likely needs plugs, leads, dizzy cap & arm etc

But as usual you solve one problem and find another!

We had the check engine light come only once and went away after a restart
It won't go over 3000rpm under load, it'll free rev to 5k+ with no issues at all and sounds sweet as anything but as soon as it's in gear it won't go past 3k

I though I heard an unusual rattle coming from the silencers as we had the rear floor up but we've taken the one I thought was rattling off and it seems in once piece with no loose bits.

I've got a video of it I can post up later.


Any ideas? We are going back to the boat in 6 weeks so was going to take over a full service kit but also want to take over anything else that may be the issue.

We've not check the fuel pressure yet as I need to know the threads to going into the throttle body so I can make up an adaptor
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  #13  
Old 07-22-2014, 11:31 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislandy View Post
15 months on I finally got back out to the boat!!!

We cleaned up every ground terminal on the block and battery, scotchbrited,de-greased and put back together.

Wired up the check engine light properly!

Took the fuel pump off again, stripped all the fittings and cleaned up the gauze filter (about 1/2in of crud build up! - no wonder it wasn't running properly!)

Put it all back together only to find the starter had seized! - 1hr getting 2 bolt undone we stripped and rebuild the starter as best as we could but the solenoid just won't let the current through so it's probably corroded internally but we got it back together and did the old screwdriver hotwire to get it running.....

Success - well kind of!

No check engine light! Woohoo! The bogging when hot has gone away but is running a bit lumpy - most likely needs plugs, leads, dizzy cap & arm etc

But as usual you solve one problem and find another!

We had the check engine light come only once and went away after a restart
It won't go over 3000rpm under load, it'll free rev to 5k+ with no issues at all and sounds sweet as anything but as soon as it's in gear it won't go past 3k

I though I heard an unusual rattle coming from the silencers as we had the rear floor up but we've taken the one I thought was rattling off and it seems in once piece with no loose bits.

I've got a video of it I can post up later.


Any ideas? We are going back to the boat in 6 weeks so was going to take over a full service kit but also want to take over anything else that may be the issue.

We've not check the fuel pressure yet as I need to know the threads to going into the throttle body so I can make up an adaptor
If you can get GM fuel line parts easily, buy a spare fuel filter (the one on the engine) and use that for reference to buy parts. DO NOT cut the hard fuel line and install a compression type of T-fitting, unless you can be absolutely sure it won't leak. You could, however, have a Shrader valve silver soldered on a fuel filter, to be used as a diagnostic tool. Your other best choice would be to remove the hard line and have a new one made with a Shrader valve, so you don't need to screw around with this in the future.

FWIW, MC added the fuel line to make diagnostics easier after finding that people didn't like using the adapter because it takes too much time and isn't made for permanent installation. OTC makes one, but it's too long to install without kinking the hard fuel line.
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  #14  
Old 07-23-2014, 04:05 AM
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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Boat: '96 205 TBI
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These are the two videos I took so you can hear the noises it's making

http://vimeo.com/101447088

http://vimeo.com/101447087

hearing it back, does that sound like timing?
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  #15  
Old 07-23-2014, 09:42 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislandy View Post
These are the two videos I took so you can hear the noises it's making

http://vimeo.com/101447088

http://vimeo.com/101447087

hearing it back, does that sound like timing?
Have you removed the line going to the fuel pump inlet? If not, do that and clean the screen. Also, make sure the fuel shutoff valve and anti-siphon valve at the tank's outlet are clean and the anti-siphon operates freely. In addition, make sure the fuel pickup tube is clear of any debris.
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  #16  
Old 07-23-2014, 10:12 AM
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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Boat: '96 205 TBI
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Yes, I cleaned out the gauze screen in the pump (which was pretty much packed solid with debris), I disconnected the fuel line from the tank and pump and blew through with compressed air with no restrictions but didn't have time to remove the fuel tank to clean/check the pickup & valve.
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  #17  
Old 07-23-2014, 10:46 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislandy View Post
Yes, I cleaned out the gauze screen in the pump (which was pretty much packed solid with debris), I disconnected the fuel line from the tank and pump and blew through with compressed air with no restrictions but didn't have time to remove the fuel tank to clean/check the pickup & valve.
If you find that the fuel line and all of the parts between the tank and pump are clear and free of any restrictions, it may be time to look at the pump as the problem, but I would start with bypassing the whole line and connect a tank from an outboard motor directly to the pump.

Inspect the whole fuel line and look for areas where it might b compressed or kinked, too.
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2014, 05:05 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Have a look at ebay item number 260732758647 for TBI fuel pressure break out union
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  #19  
Old 09-13-2014, 11:17 AM
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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Boat: '96 205 TBI
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OK, just back from France and 10 days with the boat SUCCESS!!!

Managed 10 hours of running and got it running sweet as.

So... I took over a load of service parts (Fuel Filter, Dizzy cap & arm, leads, plugs, alternator belt, starter motor, alternator) and swapped them out... only to find the engine still ran a little lumpy (but better), it would run to 3100rpm rather than 3000rpm... not a great deal of improvement but some. Checked the timing, bang on but when I started it with the paperclip jumper it missed and I had to give it a little rev's to start... this got my mind ticking over a little, it smelt a little rich so checked the plugs expecting sooted up new plugs but No.1 was perfect, No.3 again perfect... got a little confused by this point... all were spot on until No. 6 and 8, wet.

Double checked the firing order, swapped leads for 6 & 8 over and started the engine. No vibration, no missing, purred like a kitten. Took it up the lake, 4700 rpm and 75kph / 47mph on the phones GPS.

One VERY happy boater

Moral of the story, if someone else has touched your boat, check EVERYTHING if there's a problem - even the silly stuff that you would not have touched yourself
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