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  #1  
Old 06-26-2016, 11:40 AM
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Bow speakers quit working!

08 X2 and I have noticed my drivers side bow speaker(and possibly my passenger side) has quit working. I've checked all the plugs that I can think of and even took it out of the hull and reconnected all those... Could it be a fuse or something like that? They aren't blown for sure, I'm just not getting anything out of them. I'm almost positive is all dealer installed, possibly from the factory.... I have 2 JL amps and 4 JL tower speakers in addition to the speakers in the boat. Suggestions please... Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 06-26-2016, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1golfer View Post
08 X2 and I have noticed my drivers side bow speaker(and possibly my passenger side) has quit working. I've checked all the plugs that I can think of and even took it out of the hull and reconnected all those... Could it be a fuse or something like that? They aren't blown for sure, I'm just not getting anything out of them. I'm almost positive is all dealer installed, possibly from the factory.... I have 2 JL amps and 4 JL tower speakers in addition to the speakers in the boat. Suggestions please... Thanks.
Speakers usually aren't fused. Check the audio cables connected to the amplifier- if one or both slipped out, you won't hear anything (except noise, possibly). If you have a cable for listening to an iPhone/iPod through a stereo, connect that to the affected input channels and find out if it works. If not, check the connections at the speaker(s). If it does, make sure the cables didn't disconnect from the head unit AND make sure the front-rear fader wasn't set incorrectly.
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Old 06-26-2016, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Speakers usually aren't fused. Check the audio cables connected to the amplifier- if one or both slipped out, you won't hear anything (except noise, possibly). If you have a cable for listening to an iPhone/iPod through a stereo, connect that to the affected input channels and find out if it works. If not, check the connections at the speaker(s). If it does, make sure the cables didn't disconnect from the head unit AND make sure the front-rear fader wasn't set incorrectly.

Yeah I guess I should've asked my question better, my last amp had fuses on the back and were easy to get to but I don't see them on these... I'm not very versed on audio/stereo so it will prob go back to the dealer and let them figure it out.. Is that a good option?
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Old 06-26-2016, 02:51 PM
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It might be a little easier for me if I know which channels are which. The only one I know for sure is my sub channel.
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:15 PM
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I had a similar issue in my 08 X2 on two separate occasions. In one case, the RCA cables at the AMP became became wet, and hence needed to be cleaned. On the second case, I blew 3 channels on my AMP, and hence new AMP.

Swap some of the RCA cables around, and see if you can get the problem to jump. If no joy there, swap some of the speaker wires around on the back of the AMP

roll up your sleves get at it and enjoy
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1golfer View Post
It might be a little easier for me if I know which channels are which. The only one I know for sure is my sub channel.
Almost all amplifiers have the right channel closest to the backside of the amp and JL is one of those.

If you want to post a photo of the amp's controls and connections, something that can cause this may be visible. This could also be a good time to learn audio troubleshooting- most of it is fairly simple and can be done without any test equipment or special tools.

I recently replaced a power amp and found that one of the speaker wires wasn't making good contact, so that speaker made no sound. The JL amps use a hex head driver for all of the bare wire connections- if you don't have one, any hardware store will and if you want to have a tool for multiple sizes, Home Depot sells one with several different sizes (same one I used).

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-i...381H/204664390

The amp has groups of channels- if you have the M700/5, M600/1, M600/6, etc, it has three sets of channels and under the cover (if it was screwed on), it has some controls and switches- the link below shows the M700/5. How they're set makes a difference.

Put a piece of tape next to the level controls and mark where the slot in the control is parked. Once that mark is there, use a slotted screwdriver to change the setting- listen to which speakers are affected and make some notes. Repeat this for the rest of the channels so you have it for future reference. If you want to mark the speaker wires, go ahead. You can also mark the audio cables that feed the amp so you know where they're supposed to go. Play some music at a moderate level and go the the amp. Rotate the controls for all of the amp's channels counter-clockwise, to decrease the volume and then make sure the RCA plugs are fully inserted. You may find that one worked its way loose and the sound should come back. If not, and after learning which cables go to each jack, unplug all of them and use only one RCA cable to test all of the speaker channels by inserting it into each jack and listening. If all work properly, make note and try the other RCA cables- all speakers working means the problem has to be somewhere other than the amp and speakers. If you fond that one of the RCA cables produces no sound, look at the connections at the head unit- one may have come out- reinsert it if this is true and reconnect everything at the amp.

If you didn't hear sound from one of the speakers, loosen the screws on that terminal pair and slide the wires out for that speaker. Use a small battery (AA or AAA are fine for this) and connect one wire to each end of the battery. If the speaker is good and the wires are connected, you should hear a popping (repeatedly touching the wires to the battery or scratching sound (moving one of the wires on the terminal). If not, check the wires at the speaker.

BTW- make sure the wires and cables are at the bottom of the amp- if they come in from the top, it's easy for moisture to move along the wires and enter the amp.
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  #7  
Old 06-26-2016, 04:56 PM
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^^JimN nailed it. Time to trace and troubleshoot.
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  #8  
Old 06-26-2016, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Almost all amplifiers have the right channel closest to the backside of the amp and JL is one of those.

If you want to post a photo of the amp's controls and connections, something that can cause this may be visible. This could also be a good time to learn audio troubleshooting- most of it is fairly simple and can be done without any test equipment or special tools.

I recently replaced a power amp and found that one of the speaker wires wasn't making good contact, so that speaker made no sound. The JL amps use a hex head driver for all of the bare wire connections- if you don't have one, any hardware store will and if you want to have a tool for multiple sizes, Home Depot sells one with several different sizes (same one I used).

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-i...381H/204664390
The amp has groups of channels- if you have the M700/5, M600/1, M600/6, etc, it has three sets of channels and under the cover (if it was screwed on), it has some controls and switches- the link below shows the M700/5. How they're set makes a difference.

Put a piece of tape next to the level controls and mark where the slot in the control is parked. Once that mark is there, use a slotted screwdriver to change the setting- listen to which speakers are affected and make some notes. Repeat this for the rest of the channels so you have it for future reference. If you want to mark the speaker wires, go ahead. You can also mark the audio cables that feed the amp so you know where they're supposed to go. Play some music at a moderate level and go the the amp. Rotate the controls for all of the amp's channels counter-clockwise, to decrease the volume and then make sure the RCA plugs are fully inserted. You may find that one worked its way loose and the sound should come back. If not, and after learning which cables go to each jack, unplug all of them and use only one RCA cable to test all of the speaker channels by inserting it into each jack and listening. If all work properly, make note and try the other RCA cables- all speakers working means the problem has to be somewhere other than the amp and speakers. If you fond that one of the RCA cables produces no sound, look at the connections at the head unit- one may have come out- reinsert it if this is true and reconnect everything at the amp.

If you didn't hear sound from one of the speakers, loosen the screws on that terminal pair and slide the wires out for that speaker. Use a small battery (AA or AAA are fine for this) and connect one wire to each end of the battery. If the speaker is good and the wires are connected, you should hear a popping (repeatedly touching the wires to the battery or scratching sound (moving one of the wires on the terminal). If not, check the wires at the speaker.

BTW- make sure the wires and cables are at the bottom of the amp- if they come in from the top, it's easy for moisture to move along the wires and enter the amp.


Ok cool. I'll have to get started on that when I get time(it sounds awfully time consuming.) Here is a pic of the amp setup I have, I don't imagine it will help much but it's worth a shot..
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  #9  
Old 06-26-2016, 08:38 PM
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Also, after 2 or 3 hours of playing, the sound gets real distorted, almost like my amps are getting hot... Don't play for a little bit and turn em back on and it sounds fine.
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  #10  
Old 06-26-2016, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1golfer View Post
Also, after 2 or 3 hours of playing, the sound gets real distorted, almost like my amps are getting hot... Don't play for a little bit and turn em back on and it sounds fine.
Feel the amps (don't hold your hand on it for too long)- if it feels really hot, it's because amplifiers are supposed to be mounted in a way that allows the heat sink (the big piece of aluminum on the top) can shed heat. You might want to use a spacer behind each amplifier- the space behind the amp needs to be cooled, too.

The Filter switches for any speakers other than subwoofers should be in the HP (High Pass) position, which means they won't be receiving low frequencies because they can't produce them at meaningful levels and that prevents wasting amplifier power. Set the HP to about 120Hz and they should blend with the subs well enough, as a starting point.
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