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  #11  
Old 08-14-2018, 11:10 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
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Which temp tstat are you running. That engine needs a 142.

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  #12  
Old 08-15-2018, 10:23 AM
BirchLakeSN BirchLakeSN is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft PS 190 5.7 98 SN GT40
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Not sure, I will watch it tonight and see what the gauge reads. My Cousins boat and he has it serviced in the fall. He is unsure what they do to it for normal winterization.
Think I will also take the infrared thermometer along to see if the gauge is accurate. Plan to attack the fuel system this weekend and may just put a new thermostat in it at the same time.
Thanks
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2018, 11:42 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Can also be a flaky coolant temp sensor..

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  #14  
Old 08-16-2018, 10:45 AM
BirchLakeSN BirchLakeSN is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft PS 190 5.7 98 SN GT40
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Ran the boat last night for about 2 hours pulling skiers. Left running the whole time. When back at the dock shutting off and trying a restart worked fine. However, last week when the problem occurred it was 90 deg. Last night it was only 80.
WE let the boat sit for about 20 min. with the cover down Still started OK. But noticed that the fuel pump sounded a lot different then when we started it cold at the beginning of the night. Instead of a quick several second buzz when the ignition was turned to on, it started slowly and got faster before shutting off.
Temp gauge was reading right on the 0 of the 60 deg C mark on the gauge. So that should be right around 145 deg F. But after letting the boat sit I got reading of 170 F around the thermostat housing with a laser temp gauge. Exhaust risers were around 150 F and the lower block was about the same. Fuel pump was about 100 F .
Last week when it would not pump fuel the pump was too hot to leave you fingers on it for more that a second.
I am going to try one more reading with the laser this weekend under normal running conditions to determine if the thermostat housing temps match up to the dash gauge readings. Will probably pull the thermostat and replace either way, but may want to replace the coolant temp sensor also if my readings show a difference.
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  #15  
Old 08-21-2018, 07:48 PM
BirchLakeSN BirchLakeSN is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft PS 190 5.7 98 SN GT40
Location: MN
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by rossi_the_heeler View Post
He is correct on the 5000 fittings. Super quick swap out. It worked well for my application. (i have a 1994 350 tbi. my only complaint is its kind of loud. But at least you know when it starts!
Cumminscj,
Interesting that your pump is loud. Installed a P5000 Last night and it is pretty quite. Can hardly hear it run with the doghouse down.

After reading all the posts I could sift thru here about fuel pumps, (wow) I ended up ordering the P5000 from Summit with the spare parts that show in the summit web site.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?...&keyword=p5000
I also ordered the Russel 640380 part from amazon that was recommended on some posts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAS1E/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also ordered a HDT-PS-050 that someone else suggested and two copper washers. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-ps-050
It turns out that the russel 640380 part will thread into the pump as the inlet is very deep and the o-ring that comes on the nippel part included with the pump fits this part also.
The HDT-PS-050 came with an o-ring also so the copper washers were not needed. I ended up using the HDT-PS-050 and oring for the inlet and the existing fitting on the fuel line threaded right on. Used the new outlet part and o-ring that came with teh pump and the exiting gas line to the filter also threaded right in.
Removed the T fitting from the old pump and plugged the hole with a 1/8" brass plug from the local hardware store.
Wanted to document this with pictures for any future people looking to do this the first time. There is a lot of info in a lot of posts but without these details and pictures I was unsure what would work and what would not.

Again this is a 95 PS 190, 350 TBI. The old pump says 25PSI max on it but I'm going with history of so many people using the Higher PSI pump to replace it. The fuel pressure regulator should take care of it and the excess should bleed off thru the return line. Hardest part was getting wrenches in to loosen things in the tight areas. New one went in very good.



Pump and parts that came with it and I ordered.



Plug in the T fitting.

Thanks for all the help and this forum!!!

Last edited by BirchLakeSN; 08-21-2018 at 07:58 PM. Reason: adding pictures
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  #16  
Old 10-06-2018, 12:50 AM
Budjinski Budjinski is offline
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Boat: 1995 Prostar 190 5.7 TBI
Location: Southeast
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I have a 95 prostar 190 with the dreaded TBI as well. I was having the same problem. After weeks of trouble shooting it all came down to my fuel pump relay. It was getting to hot and not sending the proper voltage to operate the fuel pump even though it was clicking. I ordered a high quality relay after buying a cheap one that didn’t help.
Before I installed the new relay I meticulously cleaned the connectors in the base and made a bracket to hold the relay up higher. It now sits alone above the ECM which helps keep the temp down. It’s been almost two years now with no problem (knock on wood)
I hope that works for you.
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  #17  
Old 10-06-2018, 04:30 AM
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bret bret is offline
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Boat: Prostar 190, 1993, Anniversary Limited.
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The TBI engine is pretty bulletproof, when things get older, you need to replace things. I still have an original fuel pump, brand new for the TBI, but not selling as we have club members who still have TBI boats. I have a new spare LT1 and upgraded Carter fuel pump for the LT1. Always kept a relay in the boat just in case on the 94.
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  #18  
Old 10-06-2018, 09:47 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
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TBI bullet proof. Simple design. Easy to trouble shoot. Only a couple things can go wrong. You have to build an adapter to check fuel pressure... when you build that.. you can go thru steps quickly. The only PIA part on the TBI is the pickup coil that requires removal of distributor. But a very low failure rate. Even fuel pump has an inexpensive fuel pump replacement.

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  #19  
Old 10-06-2018, 11:44 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirchLakeSN View Post
JimN,
Temp was OK and boat had been sitting for 45 minutes with the fan running. Giving gas did nothing to help. As I stated there was no fuel coming from the injectors in the throttle body, and it would fire with gas dumped in the TB but not continue to run. Also had no fuel when the fuel line was removed from the TB.
Forgot to mention that my cousin did put 5 gallons of gas in while we were troubleshooting and that did not help. So not a venting issue or low fuel.
Cumminsjc,
I have read about both but was not sure about the delete of the vapor return and if that causes any issues down the road. ???


Thanks for the quick replies.
5 gallons really isn't a lot- it might have caused the level in the tank to rise about 2".
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  #20  
Old 10-06-2018, 11:52 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budjinski View Post
I have a 95 prostar 190 with the dreaded TBI as well. I was having the same problem. After weeks of trouble shooting it all came down to my fuel pump relay. It was getting to hot and not sending the proper voltage to operate the fuel pump even though it was clicking. I ordered a high quality relay after buying a cheap one that didnít help.
Before I installed the new relay I meticulously cleaned the connectors in the base and made a bracket to hold the relay up higher. It now sits alone above the ECM which helps keep the temp down. Itís been almost two years now with no problem (knock on wood)
I hope that works for you.
TBI is NOT "dreaded"- if it didn't work, it wouldn't have been used in millions of cars and trucks. I had a '90 Silverado and when I sold it with well over 200K miles, the only fuel-related part that had been replaced is the fuel filter. Also, the relay's position probably didn't cause the failure- it was most likely the contacts becoming hot from the current passing though. If you aren't the original owner, it's possible that the someone wasn't meticulous about keeping the battery posts and cable clamps clean & tight.
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