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  #21  
Old 10-24-2018, 05:07 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is online now
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Boat: 1995 Prostar 205 5.7L
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Last one looks a bit ashy - wonder if they all looked that way before fogging - full tune up next year I recommend.
That one was starboard side furthest to the stern. Could that be due to a lack of fuel for some reason? Is there a way to make sure the injectors are spraying properly? Anyway to clean them?
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  #22  
Old 10-24-2018, 05:27 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
Hi Jim,

Yes, I checked the temp sensor with two wires. I think it was not registering much change at the gauge due to the fact that the thermostat was likely toast and the water temps at the lakes were in the 50's.

I will check the inlet screen and am in the process of getting a new thermostat. So 143 or 160 for this engine? I've seen both suggested for this engine.

My ability to get out is going to change drastically come Tuesday when the weather turns, so I'm trying to check off as many boxes as possible before then to have less to mess with in the spring.

Thanks again!!

The two-wire sensor doesn't connect to the gauge, at all- it connects to the ECM. The one that connects to the gauge only has one wire. BTW- don't be lulled into complacency by thinking that the engine temperature is OK when everything else says it's overheating- temperature sensors don't work in air, only when they're immersed in liquid.

If you want to check for codes, use a scan tool or if you can't find one, you can use a paper clip- this method has been described many, many times.

Your plugs look pretty normal.

What makes you think the thermostat is toast? Use the 160 degree version unless you want to waste gas.
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  #23  
Old 10-24-2018, 05:53 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is online now
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
The two-wire sensor doesn't connect to the gauge, at all- it connects to the ECM. The one that connects to the gauge only has one wire. BTW- don't be lulled into complacency by thinking that the engine temperature is OK when everything else says it's overheating- temperature sensors don't work in air, only when they're immersed in liquid.

If you want to check for codes, use a scan tool or if you can't find one, you can use a paper clip- this method has been described many, many times.

Your plugs look pretty normal.

What makes you think the thermostat is toast? Use the 160 degree version unless you want to waste gas.
Thanks Jim, so what is an easy way to confirm the water temp sensor and gauge are working? I figured the thermostat was toast because the gauge never got past 130 degrees and when I removed it, it was a bit rusted up and has clearly never been swapped out because the housing bolts were still painted on.
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  #24  
Old 10-24-2018, 09:05 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
Thanks Jim, so what is an easy way to confirm the water temp sensor and gauge are working? I figured the thermostat was toast because the gauge never got past 130 degrees and when I removed it, it was a bit rusted up and has clearly never been swapped out because the housing bolts were still painted on.
The easy test is to put the thermostat in 140-160 degre water and see if it opens. If itís original, a new one is cheap insurance.

Measure the senderís resistance at room temperature- then, make it very cold and put it in hot water. If the resistance doesnít climb when it becomes cold and decrease as it becomes hotter, it should be OK. I have posted the Chevy resistance chart about 100 times- it has to be here, somewhere.
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  #25  
Old 10-24-2018, 11:41 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is online now
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
The easy test is to put the thermostat in 140-160 degre water and see if it opens. If itís original, a new one is cheap insurance.

Measure the senderís resistance at room temperature- then, make it very cold and put it in hot water. If the resistance doesnít climb when it becomes cold and decrease as it becomes hotter, it should be OK. I have posted the Chevy resistance chart about 100 times- it has to be here, somewhere.
Ok, I will confirm temp gauge works tomorrow. So getting back to the original potential thesis, is it possible that since the engine will not warm up above 130 (assuming gauge works and thermostat does not) that the EFI is limiting RPMs? The indmar manual says these engines have a phased warm up and full RPM is not available below 140 degrees.
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  #26  
Old 10-25-2018, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
Ok, I will confirm temp gauge works tomorrow. So getting back to the original potential thesis, is it possible that since the engine will not warm up above 130 (assuming gauge works and thermostat does not) that the EFI is limiting RPMs? The indmar manual says these engines have a phased warm up and full RPM is not available below 140 degrees.
Thereís no warm up phase on a Ď95 model- itís like cars from that time: get in, hang on and go.

If this were my boat, I would change the thermostat and run it- if the temperature is stable and close to the thermostatís rating, I think it can be crossed off of the list of causes, assuming thereís no big performance change.

Does the exhaust smell like gasoline?
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  #27  
Old 10-25-2018, 10:04 AM
Bartnich Bartnich is online now
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Thereís no warm up phase on a Ď95 model- itís like cars from that time: get in, hang on and go.

If this were my boat, I would change the thermostat and run it- if the temperature is stable and close to the thermostatís rating, I think it can be crossed off of the list of causes, assuming thereís no big performance change.

Does the exhaust smell like gasoline?
I havenít noticed a gas smell from the exhaust, but I may have been upwind every time I took it out.

When did the warm-up phase start in the Indmar engines? The only reason I come back to that is the fact that it is specifically outlined in the 1994-2004 Indmar owners manual.

Thanks!!
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  #28  
Old 10-25-2018, 10:26 AM
Poorhouse Poorhouse is offline
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Boat: 1996 Prostar 205
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OP - My Indmar manual says the same thing. Based on that I would assume you are not getting full RPM at 130.

For reference my '96 temp is at 160 when warmed up. It pulls above 4k RPM at temp. We take it easy until it's warmed up so I can comment on max RPM below that temp.

I wouldn't worry about the gauge wiring or sensors at this point. Change the thermostat first as it's rusty and not moving during the warm water test. See how it does with the new thermostat then take things from there.
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  #29  
Old 10-25-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
I havenít noticed a gas smell from the exhaust, but I may have been upwind every time I took it out.

When did the warm-up phase start in the Indmar engines? The only reason I come back to that is the fact that it is specifically outlined in the 1994-2004 Indmar owners manual.

Thanks!!
That manual needs to include info that was introduced well after 1994- it's an awfully broad time range, IMO. Factory manuals are much more specific to year- the one we got in '98 had 1997 at the top and new engines were introduced in 1999 and 2000, so we got more manuals because of the changes. IIRC, staged warm-up came in when they added the Gen 3 engines like the 5.3L, 6.2L and 8.1L, etc. I think the Cadillac engine had it, too. That was added because they had engine failures because too many schmucks got it, fired it up and went WOT as soon as everyone was in the boat.

Look at the transom, around the exhaust flaps- if you see soot, wipe the inside of the flap and if it has a lot of carbon deposits, it may be running rich, but the plugs didn't look like it.
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  #30  
Old 10-25-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Poorhouse View Post
OP - My Indmar manual says the same thing. Based on that I would assume you are not getting full RPM at 130.

For reference my '96 temp is at 160 when warmed up. It pulls above 4k RPM at temp. We take it easy until it's warmed up so I can comment on max RPM below that temp.

I wouldn't worry about the gauge wiring or sensors at this point. Change the thermostat first as it's rusty and not moving during the warm water test. See how it does with the new thermostat then take things from there.
It's always a good idea to let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature, but the ECM's control isn't so specific in the older boats. Running at 130 just makes the engine less efficient.
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