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Old 11-03-2018, 03:43 PM
ccbulger ccbulger is offline
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Boat: mastercraft
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Surf Tabs Run Continuously…Engine Won’t Crank

Interesting problem for the boards. 2011 X25 with Ilmor 5.7 engine and Gen 1 factory surf system. Went to winterize after 6 weeks off the water. When I moved the ignition to “On” the surf tab motors started running continuously. Instruments would not turn on as they typically do when preparing for start. When I moved ignition to start, absolutely nothing happened, other than the surf tab motors still running.

So, boat won’t start. Surf tabs are in the full “up” position. Both batteries are strong. I tried disconnecting the surf tab switches, no affect.

Has anyone had this happen? Does anyone know where the Gen 1 surf tab controller is located in the 2011 X25?
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Old 11-04-2018, 10:56 AM
sprj sprj is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: 2005 PS197
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id throw a charger on the batteries. sounds like a low voltage gremlin.
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Old 11-05-2018, 02:58 PM
Thaddad Thaddad is offline
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Had the same thing this morning, batteries well charged and not the issue. I haven’t found it yet, but it’s likely a loose negative or some corrosion (very salty out here). Will post once sorted.

On the location of the GEN1 control boxes, on my 2010 X2 they are accessible from below the front seat cover, facing the dashboard. Need to take out a carpet-covered board and both boxes (attitude plate and surf tabs) sit behind it.

T


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  #4  
Old 11-08-2018, 01:32 AM
Thaddad Thaddad is offline
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Hi,

Sorted it out this morning. The main 50A breaker was gone, though that wasn’t visible at all.

Also some nuts around the main panel/battery switch had come loose due to vibration, I guess.

The foto shows the location of the Lenco control boxes in my X2.

T






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  #5  
Old 11-08-2018, 01:33 AM
Thaddad Thaddad is offline
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Sorry, pasted same pic twice...




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Old 11-08-2018, 09:06 PM
ccbulger ccbulger is offline
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Troubleshooting the Main 50 Amp Breaker

Thanks Thaddad.
I checked the 50A engine breaker today. Appears bad. This breaker appears to be an auto-reset type, as it does not have a red button, nor any apparent means to reset. I’ve got the 2011 Ilmor 5.7 engine.

Voltage: One breaker post gave me a 12.5V reading, the other an 11.1V reading. I presumed one of the two posts would show 0 and the other 12.6 volts with a failed breaker, however I was only half right?

Resistance: The resistance between the two breaker posts, which I presume should be near 0 if working properly, varied. With the battery on, the post-to-post breaker resistance was 300 Ohms. When I turned the battery switch off, the 300 Ohms would slowly start moving down. Confusing. With the battery off, I would see an open loop when ohming out the two posts. I’ve never dealt with an auto-reset type breaker. Anyone familiar with this behavior?

Question: Any hints/tricks to get this “breaker” out of the fuse panel??? The allen/hex screws go in from the bottom. The wiring connections are on the bottom. Both are nearly impossible to access. Obviously tried to go at it from the top. Even tried accessing by removing the cover plate over the fuel tank, still a bear. I wanted to try to avoid disassembling the entire ECM shock mount. Any ideas?

I just orders a new breaker (pic below) from Waytek.com. Breaker was only $12, but with shipping and fees it came to $30.
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Last edited by ccbulger; 12-05-2018 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Update
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