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Old 07-22-2018, 04:24 PM
Bryan64 Bryan64 is offline
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Is My Sub Blown??

IDMAX dual 4 ohm sub wired down to 2 ohms.. has been impressively loud for years, but Iíve noticed a drop in output lately and yesterday the kicker amp would go into protect a couple times... started investigating this morning and the cone still moves freely in and out, but when I ohm test it, sheís bouncing around 3-3.5... should be 2 or less right? Itíll still play, but not like I feel it should..
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Old 07-22-2018, 04:37 PM
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Ohm out each coil with the leads disconnected.
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Old 07-22-2018, 04:54 PM
Bryan64 Bryan64 is offline
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Pretty much the exact answer I was expecting, and hoping not to hear lol... it’s too stinkin hot out to be climbing around in there taking things apart... that’s a project for a cooler day. Can you tell me what readings I should be getting once it’s apart? I mean a DVC 4 ohm should read 4 on each side if all is perfect right? Does a higher number or a lower number indicate problems, or both?
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:14 PM
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Each coil by itself should read close to 4 ohm, give or take a couple tenths of an ohm. Dual-4 wired in parallel should be close to 2 ohm, again give or take a couple tenths. 3-3.5 at the amp sounds like one coil could be open. This reduces the load on the amp, opposite of putting it into protect mode. A shorted coil would likely reduce the nominal impedance, which is a greater load on the amp, resulting in protect mode.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:32 PM
Bryan64 Bryan64 is offline
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Ok, let me clarify 2 things.. the ohm reading was at the speaker box terminals with the wires to the amp disconnected, if that matters... and secondly, when I say the amp was going into protect that may not be completely accurate... it’s a kx1200.1 and when the sub wasn’t playing the amps red led strip was turning off.. maybe not protect but powering off and coming back on and I just assumed it was protect? Don’t know exactly if that strip is an indicator for anything other than power to the amp, but today everything was reading proper voltage. But basically, my ohm reading is telling of some sort of problem at the sub right?
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Ok, let me clarify 2 things.. the ohm reading was at the speaker box terminals with the wires to the amp disconnected
Virtually the same thing in this case, so thats ok.

Quote:
it’s a kx1200.1 and when the sub wasn’t playing the amps red led strip was turning off.. maybe not protect but powering off
Need to check to be sure, but IIRC, there is a red protect light. But if the logo goes out and no protect light, this usually indicates the amp has powered off. This could be voltage on the power cables or turn-on lead or an internal issue with the power supply.
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:39 PM
Bryan64 Bryan64 is offline
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So in the case that my sub is trash, let me ask this.. if the kx1200.1 advertised output is 1200x1 at 2 ohms and 600x1 at 4 ohms, then is it probly right that the output would be 900w at 3 ohm? I ask because I’m thinking if my sub is trash I could free up some room by getting rid of the sub and enclosure and mounting a 10w7 in the factory 10” IB location, with an enclosure behind it of course.. would that work, or would I need a different amp? Looks like the recommended power on the 10w7 is 300-750w, would 900(if my guess is right) be too much?

And I’m not necessarily married to the JL.. the rest of the speakers are JL and I’m just assuming it’s probly the best 10” available, unless there is something that could be better lol
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:09 PM
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I would not assume that the RMS to be linear, but Id say its safe to say that with a 3 ohm load, its output could in that 900W range. 900W might be too much, but a 900W amp tuned right, is not too much.
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:12 PM
Bryan64 Bryan64 is offline
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Ok thanks.. just trying to decide what to do
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:04 AM
Bryan64 Bryan64 is offline
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Called Kicker tech this morning.. they said 900w at 3 ohm is correct with this amp.
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