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  #11  
Old 04-28-2015, 05:39 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Location: Center Hill Lake, Old Hickory, and Norris Lakes in TN
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I just thought I would dump this out there in case it helps:

On mine, we identified several culprits to investigate for cooling issues via the help of MC, MikeG, and many others on this forum. However, it also comes down to the fact that the raw water cooling system is really not efficient enough to properly prime under idle. Some may argue this point, but bear with me a moment. This is an issue for people like myself who take the boat out of the water everyday (or if you are running it on a hose in your driveway), because this model also has a dripless shaft seal so the water runs out of the shaft seal instead of remaining in the manifolds like it did on the indmar systems. So while you can run these models on a hose, I would not go much above idle when doing so, even if using the bucket method.

This being said, I have a few recommendations:
1. Check all hoses in the cooling system for debris, blockage, rubber pieces from the impeller.
2 Remove the flush pro if you have one to eliminate possible sources of air in the system.
3. Remove the seacock strainer from the system if you have one, and/or ask MC for the upgraded model of the strainer. I removed mine entirely because my lake is quite clean and I have never ran a boat with a strainer before. However, if you want to replace the strainer once your troubleshooting is complete....feel free.
4. This boat has a circulator pump and a RW pump. Occasionally, the circulator pumps will fail, and you can tell this from a visual inspection if you will take the pump apart on a bench to inspect it. I had my dealer do this at their request because reportedly some were breaking internally.
5. Because of the dripless shaft seal that I mentioned above, I would never run this boat on a hose out of the water for an extended period of time. Too much water is lost from the dripless shaft seal, and the system does not remain well primed.
6. Yes, the thermostat has a flow hole that must be aligned with the flow of the water. Apparently, many of these were installed backwards or not aligned at all from the factory. I cannot remember the exact setting, but I know that I made a post on here somewhere about it. If you cannot find this, please let me know. Mine was NOT properly installed, and the dealer caught this after three visits to their shop.
7. Next I agree with the above statement that the computer alarm may not be inline with the thermostat and the "normal operating range" for the engine. I experienced this as well and my dealer changed the alarm levels.
8. Finally, when you put the Ilmor back in the water, the sad truth on these systems is that you often have to prime the pump at the dock to completely fill the manifolds with water and drive the air out of the system. This is something that I initially heard form MC, but I have also proven this to be true in the past season. In order to do this, take the boat out of gear and rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm for 30 seconds to completely prime the system. As long as I do this whenever I put the boat in the water now, it will not overheat. However, if I go several minutes at idle without getting under power, the system will never prime and it can/will get too hot.

Sorry for the long winded response, but I really hope that this helps. I love my boat, but it certainly had a few gremlins when I got it. I also understand that there is a new part number for the impeller all open cooled Ilmor engines except the Ilmor 7.L, and this is Part #PV06764, and this replaced MV8V-1178 per Ilmor's website.

http://ilmor.com/store/product/2198/...t_id=4&search=

Be sure to ask your dealer which impeller they have in stock because I had to call three shops last week to get the new one, which according to many on this site is made of a new rubber composition that is much more durable.

Best of luck, and keep us posted on your progress. I'd love to see that new Prostar too!

Last edited by FoggyNogginz; 04-28-2015 at 05:50 PM.
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2015, 10:42 PM
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Bruce-ActionWater Bruce-ActionWater is offline
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In 2014 Ilmor had an issue where the thermostats were not being indexed right to allow the air bubble to leave the thermostat housing causing an overheat. Also there is a service bulletin out now to change out your thermostat to a different one and move the temp sender. Contact your local dealer.
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2016, 01:47 PM
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atthelake atthelake is offline
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Has this been an issue with the 2014 6.0 liters as well? Mine did exactly this yesterday for no "reasons" at all. All parts etc check out. You could see the temperature guage start to flutter and then just climb like crazy ( in low idle) . Rev up to 1500 and temp would drop like a rock.
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2016, 04:29 PM
Cyoder1 Cyoder1 is offline
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I sent an email directly to Ilmor when I replaced my thermostat. They told me that the bypass hole should be in the 12 o clock position, i.e. Straight up.

Chris
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2017, 09:52 PM
TNX5TY TNX5TY is offline
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Reviving an old thread.

Buddy has a 6.0 Ilmor that had been noticing fluctuation of temperature to 200 and could put the boat in gear and the temp would drop to normal temps.

Surfed the other night and the temp pegged to 200. Shut it off , and got a tow to the dock.

Changed thermostat and ran fine on fake a lake .

Put it in the water today and idled and actually drove around a bit and had no issues.

Filled ballast up and surfed and temperature pegged to 200 again.


What's the issue here ? Impeller new last year . Haven't checked it yet but it's the next step.

In regards to the thermostat being set with hole at 12 o clock , we have some confusion there .
Does that mean that 12 o clock position is toward the motor or away from the motor .


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  #16  
Old 08-01-2017, 02:53 PM
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lentiman lentiman is offline
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Check the impeller. If the shaft is keyed make sure that the key didn't fall out when you changed it last year. Make sure there is suction from the thru hull pick up. Make sure the sea strainer is clear and that there are no air leaks.

I changed my impeller this year and finally determined that the key had fallen out.
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  #17  
Old 01-29-2018, 12:44 PM
NewName NewName is offline
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Hey
Can anybody confirm the right position of the Thermostate ?
When I stand behind the engine looking ahead, should the hole be at 12 or 6 o clock position?
I just drilled mine abit bigger before winterizing but found my remark today to double check the position.

Thanks
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  #18  
Old 05-07-2018, 09:51 PM
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Dillinewton Dillinewton is offline
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Have we ever gotten a solid answer for this. Iím fighting this on my 2014 with 630 hours. I changed the impeller and thermostat today. I bought the boat last fall and used it twice with no issue. Sometimes it will climb to 190 and cool itself off without raising the throttle. Other times it will climb to make the alarm go off. The water temp is always responsive to the throttle. I am puzzled.
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2018, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillinewton View Post
Have we ever gotten a solid answer for this. Iím fighting this on my 2014 with 630 hours. I changed the impeller and thermostat today. I bought the boat last fall and used it twice with no issue. Sometimes it will climb to 190 and cool itself off without raising the throttle. Other times it will climb to make the alarm go off. The water temp is always responsive to the throttle. I am puzzled.
Do you have the updated water strainer?
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2018, 10:42 PM
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Dillinewton Dillinewton is offline
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Not sure. The story I heard when I bought it was...first owner was in Texas, and they did a factory add on due to it getting warm. Basically a heavy duty blower fan pulling air into the motor cover that runs constantly. Owner 2 said he never even ran it because it wasnít necessary. I didnít at first, but since itís been causing issues. I have it plugged in.
Strainer is my next thing to tackle. Iím going to eliminate it and see if that makes any improvements. I was sure it was the thermostat because it wasnít doing anything in particular consistently.


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