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  #1  
Old 05-02-2016, 09:50 PM
jobpatto jobpatto is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Boat: 1988 MASTERCRAFT TRI-STAR 190 - 351 FORD WINDSOR - INDMAR
Location: MIDWEST
Posts: 5
Rub Rail - Partial Removal & Re-Attachment

My 1988 Tri-Star 190 was hit in the side by a jet ski in a glancing blow several years ago that required a professional fiberglass repair and ever since, it leaks profusely ONLY when the swim platform is under water, probably a gallon every five minutes. The volume is such that you can actually hear it pouring in. Is it possible to remove only the rub-rail around the back with a heat gun, seal up the seam, and re-attach or does the removal destroy the entire rail? I have done all that I can with silicone without actually removing the rail.

Thanks!

John Patton
Columbus, OH
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2016, 10:08 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
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You can do some troubleshooting to find the leak by applying some silicone below the rub rail to pinpoint the leak. Sounds like the repair wasn't watertight.
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2016, 10:10 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Just re-read this. It sounds like you are leaking from a top bolt on the platform. You probably need to pull the fuel tank and rear floor and take a look.
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  #4  
Old 05-02-2016, 10:55 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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the rubber rub rail is easy to remove.. my boat new a 1995 - But I was able to remove remove loose rivets and install new rivets with 3m5200. I had leaks along a number of areas where boat made contact with docks.. project took the weekend.. If you want to just take the back part off you will have to cut the rub rail..
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2016, 10:56 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Boat: 1988 Tristar 190 Sport (Closed Bow), 351W w/ GT-40's
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OP is referring to a TRIstar, no bolts on the platform and no fuel tank to worry with back there
I believe there were some issues with this model leaking along the side rub rails at they sweep down to the water line and the built-in platform. Mine has sealant along the bottom of the rub rail at this location for the last three or four feet on each side. An impact on the side certainly wouldn't help anything here.
It is possible to remove the black insert, but not sure that will allow enough to really seal the hull joint properly. It might take removing the entire rub rail assembly (insert and alum. retainer), at least the sections(s) in the back and sides, by drilling out the rivets.
It sounds like you've investigated where it is leaking from, but there are a couple other things that could also be the main leak, or contributing to it.
First, are the brass tubes that are part of the speedo. There is one mounted on each side up high behind the combing panels in the rear of the Tristar.
Second, the exhaust hoses where they connect to the through-hull flanges could have loosened over time. There should be dual hose clamps at all of the exhaust hose connections. On mine, the single hose clamp actually deformed the round flange where the screw is so that it had a 'flat' spot in it and other engine work (head removal) loosened the connection enough to cause a leak.
Third, the packing on the shaft could be dripping more than it should. It could be tightened/adjusted or it may be time to replace with the Gore-tex type.
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  #6  
Old 05-02-2016, 11:06 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Boat: 1988 Tristar 190 Sport (Closed Bow), 351W w/ GT-40's
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I would suggest removing the rear center section of floor (which has the doghouse connected to it so that has to come off too). This will allow inspection of both the shaft packing (it is designed to drip slowly) and allow you to look back towards the transom where the exhaust flanges go thru. May show leaks while stopped, or may need to be moving. Be careful when water testing this way with so many moving parts! Good Luck.
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  #7  
Old 05-03-2016, 01:11 AM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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My Tristar leaked at the hull joint under the rubrail in the rear starboard corner. The PO had tried siliconing around the rubrail. The rubrail and insert were kinda ratty anyway so I replaced both all the way around.

John, you asked about removing just part of the rubrail . . .
The actual hard plastic rubrail comes in long sections that are riveted or screwed to the hull. The softer insert pops into this and it is usually a continuous piece that goes all around the boat. So it's really difficult, if not impossible, to just replace one piece of a rubrail/insert. I suppose you could remove the existing rubrail, seal the hull seam, and replace the original rubrail . . . but if you're going to do that, may as well put a new new rubrail on. They're not that expensive. Check out TacoMarine.com for the parts.
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2016, 01:34 PM
jobpatto jobpatto is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Boat: 1988 MASTERCRAFT TRI-STAR 190 - 351 FORD WINDSOR - INDMAR
Location: MIDWEST
Posts: 5
Rub Rail - Partial Removal & Re-Attachment - Exhaust

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyOrange88 View Post
OP is referring to a TRIstar, no bolts on the platform and no fuel tank to worry with back there
I believe there were some issues with this model leaking along the side rub rails at they sweep down to the water line and the built-in platform. Mine has sealant along the bottom of the rub rail at this location for the last three or four feet on each side. An impact on the side certainly wouldn't help anything here.
It is possible to remove the black insert, but not sure that will allow enough to really seal the hull joint properly. It might take removing the entire rub rail assembly (insert and alum. retainer), at least the sections(s) in the back and sides, by drilling out the rivets.
It sounds like you've investigated where it is leaking from, but there are a couple other things that could also be the main leak, or contributing to it.
First, are the brass tubes that are part of the speedo. There is one mounted on each side up high behind the combing panels in the rear of the Tristar.
Second, the exhaust hoses where they connect to the through-hull flanges could have loosened over time. There should be dual hose clamps at all of the exhaust hose connections. On mine, the single hose clamp actually deformed the round flange where the screw is so that it had a 'flat' spot in it and other engine work (head removal) loosened the connection enough to cause a leak.
Third, the packing on the shaft could be dripping more than it should. It could be tightened/adjusted or it may be time to replace with the Gore-tex type.
Thank you, I will check the exhaust first. It is such a volume of water that I had suspected it could be an exhaust attachment under the floor. I removed and sealed the pitot tubes last year. I also tried finding the leak with a swimming pool leak detector and couldn't find it around the platform but did see some around the exhaust, however it was hard to tell what was just coming in and out as water was moving back an forth while slightly rocking in the water.

I boat at a place where I can leave the motorbox in the boat club yard and fill a 400 lb ballast bag to diagnose at my leisure. Thank you all for your help.
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