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Old 05-27-2018, 05:08 PM
lakeman88 lakeman88 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Boat: Maristar 225 1998
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 11
1998 Maristar electrical issue

I have a 1998 Maristar 225 which I am having electrical trouble. The boat is showing dead power wise after the batteries. I originally tested my key switch thinking that was the issue but no luck there.
Symptom: turn the Perko switch on and I have power going out of it but nothing up at the dash area.
I was able to pull my center seat/storage cover out and see the main circuit breaker so I pushed that for a reset but still no help. I have the power hatch that I cannot open so I'm stuck with what else to check or where to start?

Anyone else have this problem? I'm not sure if there are fuses somewhere within the engine compartment that I cannot see?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-27-2018, 06:22 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakeman88 View Post
I have a 1998 Maristar 225 which I am having electrical trouble. The boat is showing dead power wise after the batteries. I originally tested my key switch thinking that was the issue but no luck there.
Symptom: turn the Perko switch on and I have power going out of it but nothing up at the dash area.
I was able to pull my center seat/storage cover out and see the main circuit breaker so I pushed that for a reset but still no help. I have the power hatch that I cannot open so I'm stuck with what else to check or where to start?

Anyone else have this problem? I'm not sure if there are fuses somewhere within the engine compartment that I cannot see?

Thanks
If you don't have a multi-meter, get one. Get a test light, too (one with LED and another with incandescent bulb. DO NOT use the one with a bulb on any circuits that go to the ECM, like sensors or trigger outputs!

Look in/near the battery box for a spare power wire.
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:13 AM
lakeman88 lakeman88 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Boat: Maristar 225 1998
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 11
Thanks. I do have a multimeter and the test light with a bulb. I'll get a test light with LED so thanks for that tip.
Also, my 'charged' batteries are showing around 12.3V. Is that low enough to cause any problems? I thought I remember years past that a good new battery should read 14 volts?
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Old 05-28-2018, 11:15 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakeman88 View Post
Thanks. I do have a multimeter and the test light with a bulb. I'll get a test light with LED so thanks for that tip.
Also, my 'charged' batteries are showing around 12.3V. Is that low enough to cause any problems? I thought I remember years past that a good new battery should read 14 volts?
They should be around 13.2, at rest (2.2VDC per cell is considered 'normal), but if you use a battery isolator, subtract .7 VDC from the charging voltage. That's one reason I'm not a huge fan of those.

If your batteries show this voltage, it doesn't necessarily mean they're good. Voltage is one thing, current is another.

Start by cleaning all of the battery posts and clamps, then inspect every connection along the cables.

If you connect the negative lead of the meter to the block, measure the voltage at every point on the main positive cable, starting at the battery POST, not the cable clamp. If you reach the dash and still see voltage at every point, measure at the ignition switch.

FOr this kind of test, the bulb is better- if it illuminates brightly, you have current- if it's dim, you don't have much.
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Old 06-03-2018, 08:54 AM
lakeman88 lakeman88 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Boat: Maristar 225 1998
Location: Northeast Ohio
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Thanks for the info. I'll do this check and post my find
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:14 PM
lakeman88 lakeman88 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Boat: Maristar 225 1998
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 11
Update: I did get to check on this some more....I do have voltage at the neutral safety switch and the switch seems to test Ok with continuity. I was also able to reach back and get my light on the starter nut and I have voltage there as well. Once again I pushed the master 50A breaker on the ECM with no luck.
Still no voltage power at the key switch? Are there more fuses within my motor hatch that I cannot get to maybe? Maybe a fuse for the ignition?
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:44 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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Boat: MC 1999 Maristar 230 sport
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Responded to your other post about the hatch lift.
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99 MariStar 230 Sport LTR 330
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:31 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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This plug is probably what came loose. That is why mine has a clamp on it. My Maristar has an additional connector from the round one.

It is a FLAT rectangular plug that carries all of the Dash power that can be seen usually if you remove the center seat and the storage container it will be on the PORT side.

Hopefully you will get the Hatch opened to fix it.
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Last edited by mtajpa; 06-13-2018 at 11:57 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:54 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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Here is a picture of the flat plug.

Hope it helps.
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