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  #11  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:32 PM
quattrotto quattrotto is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Boat: 1991 Prostar 190
Location: Northwest
Posts: 11
Thanks jharmon203.....
I've got an infrared heat gun sensor so can do that for sure. My concern was the disparity between last weeks temp on the lake, and yesterday's temp on the trailer.
I may be wrong, but it seemed like I could get to 150 degrees just idling in the water waiting for the GF to return to the put in after parking the truck/trailer. The only difference being the lake water temp (in the 60's last week apparently) and the doghouse being closed (vs. removed on the trailer for ease of winterization....)
I guess anything can happen from one day to another....such is the life of boats!
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:41 PM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Boat: 89 Prostar 190
Location: midwest
Posts: 501
I've changed the way i do it anymore i drain the engine first, then remove the thermostat and then plug everything back up without the thermostat then run the antifreeze through this way I really do not have to worry about it not flushing the system. takes about 2 minutes longer but at the end of the day I do not have to worry about a thermostat hopefully opening up.


actually thinking about it this might even be a quicker way of doing it because i'm not waiting for the engine to warm up and double and triple checking the thermostat and water to make sure everything is working the way i want it to.
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:48 PM
EricB EricB is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 77 S&S, 1983 S&& PS, and now a 98 Anniversary S&S LT1 PS
Location: St. Paul, MN & Balsam Lake, WI
Posts: 735
Quote:
Originally Posted by quattrotto View Post
Thanks EricB for the clarification. I'll follow your recommendation this afternoon. Still doesn't explain why I can't get the engine temp past 120 degrees on the trailer, though. I drained the block/hoses/heater/shower a few days ago prior to my winterization as a precaution as we were getting into the low 30's/high 20's overnight here in MT the last few days and my dreams of one last day on the water this fall failed to materialize. So there was no water in the block when I started it up on the bucket, and there seemed to be no other issues (started right up, idled fine, revved up to 2000 rpm fine, water coming out exhaust fine, no leaks anywhere, and temp went to 120 in a reasonable timeframe).
So I guess I'm wondering if something happened to the thermostat (or something else) after draining the block the first time?
I am planning on draining the AF after I run it through the motor, seems to be the preferred method around here in NW MT....
Any thoughts? Would like to figure it out now so I can hit the water in the spring without issue. Thanks!
I agree, it does not explain the temperature difference. You could pull the thermostat to see if it is stuck open slightly (a small amount of light through the edge where the center pellet meets the frame indicates it's partially stuck). However, I would suggest you winterize now anyway. Your process of filling then draining is ok, as long as you get AF out the exhaust. Internal parst should be coated and pockets filled with coolant. I assume you are using RV anti-freeze (which is non-toxic).
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:52 PM
EricB EricB is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 77 S&S, 1983 S&& PS, and now a 98 Anniversary S&S LT1 PS
Location: St. Paul, MN & Balsam Lake, WI
Posts: 735
Quote:
Originally Posted by jharmon203 View Post
Are you absolutely certain about this statement? If you aren't going to let the engine get back up to temperature, then the thermostat needs to be out correct? Otherwise you aren't getting antifreeze into the actual engine. This is the point of the thermostat. You don't want your coolant (raw water) to enter the engine until it's needed otherwise it's going to make the engine run at a low efficiency.

One of the number one things I have read about cracked blocks is people start their cold engine up, they run antifreeze into the engine and see it spit back out. The problem with this is that it didn't actually enter the engine due to the thermostat not being open.
Yep. Certain.
You are also correct in your cracked block statement. But that is due to the fact that the engine has not been drained prior to filling.
Try this....drain the block and cavities. Leave the block drains open. Suck the AF in (as you would normally do) and see what comes out of the drains. It will be AF. Give it a try!
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:57 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Boat: 2000 X-star
Location: Midwest
Posts: 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB View Post
Yep. Certain.
You are also correct in your cracked block statement. But that is due to the fact that the engine has not been drained prior to filling.
Try this....drain the block and cavities. Leave the block drains open. Suck the AF in (as you would normally do) and see what comes out of the drains. It will be AF. Give it a try!
On a cold engine with the thermostat in? I don't believe any AF will get into the engine. The thermostat isn't open.

I would like to state that I do drain my engine before I put antifreeze in, but I drain my engine after getting it to temperature and put everything back together quickly as to not loose heat in the engine so the thermostat stays open. I know I am getting AF in the engine because it all get sucked out of the bucket I use and afterwards I am down 3-4 gallons from what I started.
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351w, prostar 190, temperature, thermostat, winterize

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